Where to start with my stock 2500

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I have a 95 2500 stock truck, have noticed a drop in power over a period of time.
I have a hard starting problem, starts on the first hit but bucks & grumbles for 10 to 15 seconds the clears up and runs fine.
What does B. O. M. B. stand for?
Where should I start with the upgrades?
Budget is around $1500-$2000.

 

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Torque plate-level one,two or three (real HP210-240-270)-$300-install yourself. If auto- shift kit-have shop install unless you are very good-$500
Gauges-EGT and Boost-$250 install yourself
Deeper trans pan-$200-helps keep auto cooler. Most other mods fall into the 80/20 rule.

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1996-3500 tst stage 3 plate, K&N air filter,4" exhaust,bigger injectors,b&m trans pan,Amsoil all around,temp gauges out the wazzo,much trans work,double tow 33' 5th wheel and 12' trailer w/motorcycle(Honda Valkyarie Interstate)Also have 1999-2500-stock.

 

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Better #ad

Off #ad

Modified #ad

Baby! #ad


Check out the sig. If you go with the TST plate and gauges, it'll turn your truck into the most fun to drive vehicle you've ever owned. If you still have your cat, it's probably getting clogged, about time to arrange for a little "accident" #ad


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95 2500 SLT Laramie 3. 54, automatic,Herculiner bed liner, JVC cd out of factory infinity system, southwest grill gaurd (a favorite amongst the deer population), K&N, AFC adjusted, dual straight exhaust out of "gutless" cat, Geno's dual EGT/boost gauge, TST #6 plate slid all the way forward, AFC housing slid all the way forward, silencer ring removed
"Layin' the 'SMOKEDOWN' on their ROOdy Poo CANDY GASSERS!"

[This message has been edited by danandme (edited 09-09-2000). ]

[This message has been edited by danandme (edited 09-09-2000). ]

 

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I have standard trans. with stock clutch.
I'm up to 120,000 miles.
80/20 rule?
Better off modified baby, cool.

 

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<font color=red>MDW
If you get a chance, try to get up to Temple the weekend of Sept. 23 for the rally there. It's a free event. You'll definatly learn a thing or two about BOMBing there. Click here to check out the Texas Rally thread
I'm with the rest of the guys here. lose the cat. As far as the hard to start problem, you might have the ever so popular fuel return line problen. Do a search of the forums and you'll learn about the problem and how to fix it properly. Welome to the TDR and try to keep a handle on the pocketbook cause there are a lot of Gottahaveits here.

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"Big Red" 1994 Ram 2500 Laramie SLT, 12 valve, 2WD, Auto. 139,000 miles. I am my own warranty station Ranch Hand steel brush guard, Scotty Air, silencer ring put back in(wifey said so), Flowmaster muffler, chrome turn down pipe out the side, Velvet ride shackles. My Truck Site

 

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MDW
You won't be sorry with a fuel plate.

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Paul A. Schmidt
95, 4X4, SLT 2500, 5 spd. , 4. 10, 270 hp. ,675ft. lb. TST, AFC spring kit,215hp. injectors,16cm2 turbo housing, Pacbrake, Walker muffler,
GearVendor O. D. , CenterForce Dual Friction clutch.
Eastern PA.

 

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So... what does this new torque plate do? Loose the CAT? Sorry, I am new too! My 97 3500 could use a pick me up also.

WD

 

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MDW,
The first thing I would do is repair the rough idle problem. Have you cleaned the pre-filter lately? Also the rubber fuel return line at the back of the engine could have a leak, letting air into the system.

You want to start with a problem free engine before adding upgrades.


WD, A torque or cam plate will add more fuel at part to full throttle. This equals a TON of power. The plate is inexpensive & easy to install.

"Lose the cat" means to remove the Catalytic converter.

Click here to Learn more about Torque plates: http://www.tstproducts.com/power_kits.html




[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 09-10-2000). ]

 

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Prefilter? Boy do I have a lot to learn.
Thanks for all the tips.

 

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HD,

Please explain exactly where the pre-filter is. Thanks

 

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The pre-filter is on the bottom of the lift pump. It takes a 17mm socket to remove. It's easier to do from the bottom, but you have to be careful or you will get a diesel bath. There is an o-ring type of gasket. Take it easy and don't damage it. The gasket usually is in good shape so it can be used over. I check my pre-filter as part of the oil change time service and the pre-filter gasket still does not leak.

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

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MDW the 80/20 rule was explained in the magizine. But heres my interp- 20% of your money gets you 80% of power increases-the last 20% of power increases costs you 80% more. Bigger turbos and injectors give more power but cost more than cam plate.

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1996-3500 tst stage 3 plate, K&N air filter,4" exhaust,bigger injectors,b&m trans pan,Amsoil all around,temp gauges out the wazzo,much trans work,double tow 33' 5th wheel and 12' trailer w/motorcycle(Honda Valkyarie Interstate)Also have 1999-2500-stock.

 

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Ah, I get it now(80/20).
I'm considering Jannettee's products, exhaust eliminating the cat altogether, air intake setup (stock box w/K&N or pscotty?), torque plate but which one stage I, II or III, I hate to buy stage #I and end up wanting #III, injectors the same dilemma 215, 275, 300 #ad

Whats a silencer ring?
I hope to get rid of the cat by the Texas rally.
Thanks for the help everybody #ad
#ad
#ad


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95' 2500 standard trans. 2wd reg cab 120,000 miles bone stock but not for long I hope.

 

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Ohhhh, I see such potential for corruption here #ad

Start your bombing slowly, each increase of power will make it that much more fun!The silencer ring is a freebe #ad
If you pull off the intake hose on the turbo (the one coming from the filter box) there is a smallpiece of metal held into the turbo by a snap ring. Pop out the snapring and remove the little cheesy piece of metal, it'll whistle like a Peterbuilt #ad

 

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corrupt me #ad

I just don't want to make a mistake thats going to cost me.

 

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Prefilter? I just looked in the Haynes manual and it doe snot mention one. Does anyone have a picture of where it is?

 

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<font color=red>Here's a link to some very good instructions on how to clean the pre-filter
Click here to check it out

[This message has been edited by gitchesum (edited 09-10-2000). ]

 

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MDW:

Welcome to the TDR!

I saw where you had signed up to
attend the Texas Rally. All the
questions you asked on this thread
will DEFINITELY get answered at
that rally!

I used to live in Houston and
Humble, Texas. Left there around
1994. I don't miss all that
"searing" heat but it is not too
much better here either.

Anyway, take care and good luck
on your modifications.

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John_P.

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Red '96 4x4 2500 Auto 3. 54, TST #5, Pump Mods, Banks Exhaust, Prime Loc, Cummins Chrome Kit, Pro-Torque Converter, BD Valve Body, Sendel 16" Alum Wheels w/ 33" BFGs

 

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Thanks to all, for the great information on the pre-filter, sounds like this may be next saturday's RAM project #ad

 

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Switca forget any other manual except Dodge Manual(the best)or Cummins Manual for correct info. Dodge Manual cost around $100, order according to year of truck. Covers 1500 to 3500, gas and Diesel.
The other brands leave little items out, that you need to know where there at, how they work.
Cummins would be good but only covers engine related parts as I understand.