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Which bomb should be first on a stock truck? Your Opinion!

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DD or EZ who has one

Differental Temp?

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Gyro:
I pull a 15,000 lb fiver as well as tote a 11. 5 4,500 lb camper when not towing. The first thing I did was install the K&N filter package. BD exhaust brake and auto loc. Then the 4" exhaust followed by a VA box, boost module and elbo. Pyrometer and xmsn temp gauge.

The first year I towed stock. I struggled up the West slope of the Tehachipi mountains at about 35 to 40 mph with the pyro registering about 1,000 degrees, and the transmission gauge at 245 degrees. After the mods I topped them this year at 50 to 55 mph with the pyro at 700 degrees, and the temp gauge registering about 200 degrees or less. I think those mods will suffice for my needs for the time being although I do plan on installing a heavy duty torque converter and valve body in the near future.

Good luck
Dewdo in the other Washington

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2000 Ram 3500 4 X 4 dualie W/B-D Exhaust Brake, Auto-Loc, Armr bed liner, DeeZee running boards, mud flaps, steps, leather, white with color splash on sides, would like to BOMB it, but after warranty. VA Box waiting to install.

34' King Of The Road 5th wheeler & 11. 5 Arctic Fox pickup camper. Winter in Arizona (Martinez Lake)
 
Dewdo - Oh yeah, I forgot about the exhaust brake. But if its gonna be pulling a load, I'm going to need one. There's $899.

BTW, out of curiosity I looked at the bed campers at a RV dealer. I don't know how new yours is, but these new ones kick a$$. Its amazing the accomodations these things have. I was impressed.

- JyRO

[This message has been edited by JyRO (edited 03-08-2001). ]
 
#ad
Do my eyes deceive me or is Mr. Totally Stock Engine coming around to the way of the B. O. M. B. ? #ad
Do yourself a favor JyRO, put down the mouse, step away from the computer. Go sit down in the other room and breathe for a little while and seriously contemplate the slippery slope you are about to step onto.
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Now sleep on it overnight
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Now if you're still here and you still think it's a good idea to BOMB then welcome to our world #ad
! In my case I went straight to a TST powermax (it was the only box available at the time) and gauges and got 275 hp and 660 ft/lbs at the rear wheels with no EGT problems at all with my ETC 5 speed. My clutch held every time on the street and I only slipped it on the sand dunes a couple of times.

Now here's the beauty of the system we've got now to get you hooked. Now you buy the Powermax3 and you'll have the same level of power I had then if you leave it set on Level 3 (of 9). At that level your stock clutch should hold (assuming it's the same as the 5 speed clutch which someone said it is) - if it doesn't hold you can always turn down the power. But here's the catch - you'll soon get used to that level of power and you'll say "hmmmmm - I wonder what level 4 would feel like" and you give it a little taste (saying to yourself "I'll only try it this ONCE, I'm just experimenting") and the clutch holds and your're a happy camper #ad
! Pretty soon a powerstroke catches you by surprise and you had the box on Level 3 and you would have beaten him if it had been on level 4. So now you leave it on level 4 any time you think you might have a race or are around a bunch of other diesels ("I'm just a recreational user I only use in social situations") and start playing with level 5 just a bit. (This is where we're getting into the addiction phase). Amazingly the clutch is still holding - you think to yourself "heck, if the clutch slips I'll just dial back the power and run there no biggie, I could run at this level no problem". So you start to dabble with level 6 now! #ad
Ooops slipped the clutch. You turn it back to level 5 and now you're slipping it intermittently, you're starting to jones for a fix. #ad
You've got it on level 3 now and it's holding at that level, but you just can't believe how slow your truck is all of a sudden!! What are you gonna do? It's about at this point that most men will just admit that they are a junky and hopelessly addicted to BOMBing #ad
. Then you can spend more on a clutch than you ever imagined was possible and keep running that box up until you run into EGT problems (keep an eye on that pyro) and do something about them when they get there. BTW, TST will be releasing very soon the powermax3 box with a digital boost and EGT gauge built right in with EGT limiting - so you can set a max EGT limit and it will automatically defuel to maintain that. Enjoy the ride!

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-Steve St. Laurent - President of the Great Lakes TDR
'98 QC LB (CMNSPWR), 4x4, ISB, 5sp, 4. 10 LSD, TST Powermax3, 275hp RV injectors, Joe Donnelly modifed Sachs Clutch, custom ladder bars, SW fuel pressure gauge, BD exhaust brake, Isspro turbo temp monitor, front Draw-Tite receiver, rear Draw-Tite class V receiver, BFG 285/75R16 AT KO's, (all the common stuff clipped)

[This message has been edited by Steve St. Laurent (edited 03-08-2001). ]
 
Hello... I'm new here at posting (as you can see) but I've been reading thru the posts on this site for well over a year. I try to check in and see whats new once a day. I've been a diesel mechanic for 26 years. There are some tremendously knowledgeable people posting here and I have benefitted greatly from their insight and experience. With that said, I second Ted Jannetty's recommendations. People form their opinions from their own life experiences, and in that regard, Ted and I seem to have traveled down some of the same highways. Enjoy your truck. I do mine.

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1999 White SLT Dually Auto 4:10 Posi. NOT BOMBED... ... ... ... (very much) 28,000 miles

[This message has been edited by TopFuel (edited 03-09-2001). ]
 
I agree with Sean, 4" pipes = $$ beter spent else where, unless you are planning HVAC or Piers levels of power.

Do your mods first and see what your EGT run under load. Then go from there.

I say if you want to race PSD's & Dmax's, race them to the pump. Last one in wins #ad


FWIW, go with a minor fuel box i. e. Puck, VA, or EZ. Easy to install and not really enough power to hurt anything, i. e clutch, transmission, etc. They are relatively inexpensive. If you think you need more, go injectors.
 
Sean Flanagan - I'm not offended at all, I'm rather thick skinned. I don't know about some of the other guys here though, but overall they seem pretty thick skinned. I tend to agree with the muffler removal idea. I've heard several other people mention the same thing. Besides, the exaust is fairly large diameter to start with (compared to the soda straws used on gas engines), removing the muffler should do just as you say. And since some people heard me say that I'd like to limit my budget on this, removing the muffler sounds way smarter than a whole new exhaust. Cause I don't care about the 2 (hehe) horsepower the new exhaust would give me, I care more about the exhaust temps, and removing the muffler is inexpensive. Thanks.

Shortshift - I agree on the e-brake, and doing without the gauges. Sure they're fun to look at, but would my driving style change much if I could see what the boost was doing? No. Do I think I'll do enough mods to worry about EGT's too high? I doubt it. But... .

Everybody - You tell me! WOULD I HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT EGT'S WITH AN EZ, RV 275'S, AND MUFFLER REMOVED? WOULD THE EZ AND 275'S WORK WELL TOGETHER? DOES THE EZ HAVE A BOOST MODULE? WOULD SOME OTHER BOX WORK BETTER WITH THE 275'S? I think my mind is set on the 275's is why I ask. Thanks for your help!
 
IMHO - 275 and PS Boost Module are safe together to the point you need not worry about temps.
275 and EZ, I don't know. Joe
 
sean f , i have run with 275's and a VA with cruise control on without any surging for many many miles , its the post electronics fueling boxes and real big injectors that cause the problem .

as far as gauges , remember back to JNutter , he only had a VA and the jury is still out on what caused his meltdown , really EGT is a gauge that should have been in the dash from the factory .

with that said , 275's and a PE EZ will be safe on your clutch , friend of mine clutch held well till he added the Edge with 275's and VA .

its cheap to rid yourself of the muffler , add a free flowing air filter , i tried a KN Cone the other day , egt dropped 50 degrees while cruising at 65 mph and my fuel mileage went up a small amount, it really does work i'll be buying one soon .

one thing i have noticed is the craziness swirling around these adjustable level post electronics fuel boxes ... bad mojo ... they seem to be causing most of the damage we experience on the whole , the good thing is they can be turned off . with the fact that they can be turned off in mind ,they are good for the HP hungry guys , run a set of injectors and a timing/boostmodule box and you and your drivetrain/injection pump will be happy for many many miles . when its time to show a brand x your tailgate , just push the button #ad
#ad
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I've read numerous posts from people who have already done the testing. They all indicate that VA/EZ + 275's or DD1's, boost module, elbow, etc do not create high EGT's. I have never read that this combo causes a heat problem.

This is the logic for saving the money on the gauges for now, and buying either of these boxes first, so that under warranty, if there is a problem it can be removed easily & stealthy.

I'd use the gauge money towards a good e-brake to start saving your brake pads.

At this level, there is no need for a 4" exhaust (until the stock one rots out), or a K&N (waste of money & unreliable - see Joe Donnelly's comments about no gain on the dyno) - (here we go on the K&N again #ad
).

Then after that you can add on the goodies little by little as you save the "EXTRA" bucks (gauges, high idle unit, 4x low lockout, on & on).

At this level the truck will run *****in', get great mileage, and still be reliable.

I'm just basing this on the original requirement which was, minor mods, not alot of money. If the requirement changes and the big power is wanted then gauges must be included, or... . poof!... #ad
 
The first thing to do would be
<font size=40><font color=red>GAUGES!</font></font> #ad



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'99 2500 ISB QC SLT (No Leather!), 4x4, 5sp w/McLeod, 4:10, BD-II, PE, PE-EZ, 4"exh. , Pac-Brake, A-Pillar gauge pod w/boost and pyro, Line-X, V-1, lights, siren, lic. plt. frame says "Diesel Fumes Make Me Horny!", and much more goofy stuff.

[This message has been edited by Amianthus (edited 03-09-2001). ]
 
My advice so far has been based on what JyRO asked for... a cost effective first bomb that you can grow with.

Everybody is in agreement here. Go buy gauges! You will always need them at any bombing level. They will never be obsoleted. Just make sure your boost gauge can go beyond 40psi. TST sells one that goes to 60. You only really need a Pyro, the boost gauge is just there for grins and giggles. O. K. You can tell your spouse that you need it for diagnostic purposes.

With just a VA or EZ and the muffler removed you most likely will not have an EGT problem unless you run the thing full blast hard for long periods of time. I have proven this with the VA box. The problem with these mild boxes is that most people have them for a while and them upgrade them or sell them for something better (myself included). That's why I suggested the high end adjustable box. You can keep it for the long run. The only downside to these type of fueling boxes is the telltale nick in the injector pump wire that might void your warranty. The box will void you warranty for things like the transmission but won't hurt the warranty for things like the stereo.

If you are really worried about warranty, get a VA or PowerEdgeEZ(my personal favorite) and don't touch anything else until your 100k mile warranty runs out. I'll bet you won't be able to wait that long. I sure couldn't.

The 275 injectors are pretty mild and won't effect the cruise control too much when used with a mild box such as the VA or EZ. If you use big injectors such as DDII's or DDIII's you are in a whole different league. The cruse control doesn't even come close to working unless you are hauling something big. I have tried that combo as well.

I truly respect what people like TedJ and like know. But you should understand that they make a living selling this stuff and they want you to buy as much of it as possible. I have gained experience simply by helping a few friends upgrade their trucks. We have tried a lot of combinations (most of them) to see what is really behind all the hype.

Good luck and go buy some gauges!
 
If you are going to use your Ram as a truck, do what I did first. One day old and the first money spent on modifications was to get a spray in bed liner. The next truck the bed liner will be done on the first day also.

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'97 SLT 2500, 4x2 LB Club Cab, auto, 230/605 fuel plate and 215 injectors, pillar mount Isspro gauges, BD torque converter, BD valve body, BD Pressureloc, Mag-Hytec transmission pan and differential cover, 3. 54 LSD, white/driftwood, air dam, sliding rear window, towing/camper pkgs, Rhino liner, SS bed caps, stake pocket tie downs, chrome exhaust turn down, SS wheel well trim, Carr steps, Mopar mudflaps, Aerotank under seat toolbox, Cobra 75WXST CB/Firestik, J-MAC louvered aluminum headache rack and tail gate, Mopar flag/tow mirrors, Reese 15k fifth wheel hitch. Mopar Ram hood ornament, Sweet Tooth grill, and white dice. Kennewick, WA.
 
My truck is an '01 ETH DEE. It is stock as far as power is concerned, but I have an E-brake and gauges---pyro,(post turbo) boost and fuel pressure. Whith my fiver on, the state scales show me at 19K. On any grade, when I am pulling in the highest gear that I can pull the grade in, my EGTs will go to 1000 reall quick!! ---before I run out of ability to slowly gain speed. Since I do not know what exhaust manifold temps really are, I back off at that point, or a little before. I fear that without the pyro, I might be getting hot enough to do damage???
Opinions??
 
if you want a mild fueling box i would say get the poweredge ez. it has a built in boost module and it is the same price as the bd/va box. if you want to go with bigger injectors at some point you will need a boost module. the dd box is a good choice if want the bigger injectors stage 2 or higher.

jim

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2001 eth, ez box, dd2's
 
The first thing is a phone call to Diesel Dynamics, and have your credit card ready. #ad


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1999 2500 4x4, auto, 3. 54, HD241, Quad cab SLT, Blk Sport Pkg, 285 Bridgestone AT, Amsoil.
1992 SC400
1978 Mooney 201 IFR
 
JyRO... I just wanted to reply to your last post... the boyz here have given you an earfull of valuable advise, but to keep it simple and cost effective, buy the Edge EZ and thats that. You will not have to worry about temperatures or your clutch... gauges will not be necessary either. The unit can be installed/removed in about 5 minutes. This is the beauty of it, when you go in for service (rare as it may be) then it can be removed quickly and easily, no warranty problems. IMO The Edge EZ is that "stand alone" performance product that you asked about in your original post.
 
Rock Tumbler - Thanks, that's right at the information I'm looking for. I'm thinking this is my order of purchases. First a 5th wheel hitch and brake controller. 2nd, an exhuast brake, probably BD. 3rd, I think I'll go for the RV275's. 4th I think either the edge EZ or the PE EZ. I don't think I will run into heat problems with this setup.

Everybody - Does the Edge EZ and PE EZ both incorporate a boost module?

- JyRO
 
So far I've gotten gauges, a VA box , and 4" exhaust. If this addiction continues my next move is injectors, turbo housing and Yup, the dreaded new clutch.

I'm trying to maintain control of my disease. So is my wife. It may be just me and the 5th wheel if I'm not careful with this "illness. "

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1999, 2500, 4X4, QC, Laramie SLT, 5 spd, KN Filter, ISB Plug n' Power, 4" Exhaust, Piller Mount Pyro & Boost Guages, BD Exhaust Brake, Bugshield w/eyebrows. Bedliner, Diamond Plated Rail Protectors, Better Built tool box.
Pull a 2000 30. 5' Terry Manor 5th Wheel. GVRW 12000lbs.
 
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