2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Which brake pads?

[Larry Willard]

Just replaced mine today, 98000 miles and they were shot, the thin lining that was left was breaking up after I pulled them off. I got the $45 carbon metallic pads with a lifetime warranty at Auto Zone.

Larry

 

[Jetson]

I'm on my second set of Carbon Metallic pads from Autozone. The first set was getting thin. I took them back and got a new set free. 138,000 miles. Never touched the rotors.



I did blow a rubber line on a '74 Malibu in 1984. The stainless wrapped lines probably do help brake feel a little, but some of the line failures are internal, restricting fluid flow to or from the caliper. I don't see how stainless wrapped lines would help with that?

 

[RWatson]

In the past 91K I have had to replace three sets of pads and two rotors because of those great lifetime pads from Napa and others.



A couple of weeks back I happened to look at the fronts and yes to my amazement, it was rotor time once again, number three :{ . I have watched all the many discussions on this subject and thought it was time to give Sam's pads a try, could not be any worse then the lifetimes I have tried.



Well last Monday I installed a pair of EBC sloted rotors, all pins and anti-squeal retaining clips, a set of Sam's front pads, filed all rough edges and lubed all tracks. Next I topped it off with a set of Sam's rear shoes.



WOW, She stops again!!! I did notice that they do feel a little softer in the pedal than the lifetime's at first, but I think I still could use to bleed the system and flush old fluids. Bottom line for me is at this point I am very pleased with the pads from Sam and will replace these with another set when the time comes.



Randy

 

[Sojourner]

Maybe its just me, but I have never ever heard of someone’s brake lines rupturing.

Preventing a blown out brake line is only one reason for replacing the rubber brake lines when they get five or more years old. One side or the other can get weak causing a pull to the side with the stronger brake line. The stainless/kevlar lines just give you the performance edge - some people BOMB to go fast, some BOMB to stop fast and sure. When towing heavy, that extra five to fifteen feet to stop could make a huge difference. I 'tapped' a Honda Civic with my '71 'burb when this moron cut me off and then stood on his brakes. The stock bumper on the 'burb clobbered the Honda to the tune of $3,800 in damages, with no really noticeable damage to the 'burb's bumper. Fifteen more feet and there would not have been any impact.

 

[JyRO]

pads ordered...

I had an '88 Suburban 4X4 2500, which was 5,325 lbs or so. My Dodge is 7,135 lbs. My Dodge's brakes are way yonder better than the Suburban's, and the Suburbans brakes weren't bad. Especially when towing heavy. I've had 1 panic stop towing (and had forgot to plug the 9,500 lb. trailer, so no trailer brakes ) from about 65 to 70 mph on the interstate to a dead stop and the truck did great. So good in fact that it wasn't until a little while later that I realized I hadn't plugged the trailer into the truck. I've had 1 or 2 panic stops when empty and good performance there too. So, status quo for me. And I, like others in this post, would rather wear the pads than the rotors.



So, since Sam wasn't available, I talked to Patrick and the pads are on their way!



- JyRO

 

[Rhondasway]

Well last Monday I installed a pair of EBC sloted rotors, all pins and anti-squeal retaining clips, a set of Sam's front pads, filed all rough edges and lubed all tracks. Next I topped it off with a set of Sam's rear shoes.

Randy

I've used Sam's pads for a couple of years, but I'm once again faced with replacing rotors (maybe too late replacing pads). Can the slotted rotors be pressed on to my existing hub assembly? I had replaced a front bearing before, and was told that I had to buy the entire assembly with rotor attached, which I did... Is it just my particular setup, or was I misled?

My truck is '98 2500 4x4 Ext. cab.

My brakes are critically important as I drag race as well as street drive. Also, will the carbon-metallic pads eat the slotted rotors? I got a pair of ceramics ($107), but when I saw the condition of my rotors, just put on a cheap set until I can get new rotors... Now I wonder if I should return the ceramics or keep to use with the new rotors (if I can use those).

Thanks for any help.

 

[JyRO]

STATUS UPDATE:



Got the pads a while back and fought with the bolts that hold the calipers to the steering knuckle. After realizing that I'm an idiot and didn't need to remove those bolts or the whole caliper from the knuckle, I took my torx socket driver and backed the bolts off that hold the floater part of the caliper only. This is how that went.



I did this job this Sunday (10/17), in about 3 hours or less with all manual hand tools, no air. It was so easy it wasn't funny. Backed those bolts of with a 45 torx I think is what it was. Those 2 bolts per caliper came off easy. Took a big straight screw driver and worked the floater off (top side first on the RF, and bottom side first on the LF).



The pads, which remained on the fixed side of the caliper, slid out with a tap from the same screw driver and a hammer, slid the new pads on easy as pie. Next is the key to the whole process.



A 5 inch C-clamp!!!! I put one of the used pads back in on the floater side of the caliper, against the pistons, like the pad was back in its orginal place. Centered the C-clamp on the brake pad so the pad and clamp pushed evenly on the 2 pistons. The other side of the C-clamp on the floater part of the caliper. I turned it at a patient pace and the pistons went back in as slick as a whistle (the top of the reservoir was off too). Put the floater back on over the new pads, greased the bolts, put them back in tightened the bolts, put the wheel on and it was done.



After finishing both sides I drove the truck and 3 pushes on the pedal pushed the pistons back out and I had brakes starting on the 3rd push. The brake feel was status quo to my original feel. No judder (none to begin with, the rotors looked great), no pull to either side, and the brakes felt great.



Tools needed - Jack and lug nut wrench from under the rear seat, 1 hammer, 1 big straight screw driver, 1 socket wrench & 1 45 torx on the socket wrench. I put about $65 into this brake job. The TDR paid for itself many times over on this job, versus taking it to a dealer. Paid for itself probably 2 to 4 times if I had taken it to a brake shop. And there's no telling what kind of (low quality craftsmanship) issues I would have ran into from letting the st... dealer or brake shop do the job. Maybe none, but I have before. I have no issues and I know the job was done correctly.



Thanks TDR brethren!!!



- JyRO

 

[SRadke]

Alright..... back to enjoying that CTD Oo.



-Scott

 

[diesel DOG]

My 2001 has 59 on it and I do brakes every 23. The dealer sold me pads that had no squeaker even though he said they were identical OEM. The last set is PFC and they don't seem bad. I need to look at the rotors. The previous two sets treated the rotors very kindly. I have some crazing in the surface of the rotors.

 

[McCRam]

I have ruptured two brake lines. One on my old 84 Chevy, and another in a 70s Ford dump truck, with a load of hay. It wont happen to me again if I can help it.

 

[Rhondasway]

That's the process I did too, real easy all things considered. I ordered slotted, cryo'd rotors from A. R. T. , and they come with pads. When they get here I'll be undertaking the rotor swap; hopefully it won't be too much of a nightmare, and will be the last time for a long time...

I got the info on the thread I started on the Competition Forum; there was some very good input. I too appreciate this site!

 

[diesel DOG]

Doing brakes again at 60,000 the fourth set will be going in with the ball joints the PFC pads only lasted about 14,000 miles the OEM lasted about 23,000 each. Now what should I try?