2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Which brand of rotors?

[Dartman]

I've been looking the threads for a while on brakes. See that some people use EBC rotors, I think Y-Not has a set of Raybestos Super Stops, and one guy (can't remember Name) bought a cryo'd set from Applied Rotor Technology. I have been looking at Power Slot. Anybody used this brand?

Thought of getting a set of the cryo'd rotors or sending a set out to get cryo'd (found a company in Utah that cryogenically treats engine parts). But one of the engineers I work with said it might be a waste of money do to the amount of heat that is applied to the rotor during braking. Have to do more research on this before paying the extra money.

How do you guys like your aftermarket rotors and why would you recommend the ones you have bought? Any suggestions?



Thank you in advance for any input.

 

[y-knot]

You are so very right, I do have a set of the Raybestos Super Stop rotors on my Dodge. I also just installed a set of Power Slot rotors on my Ford, they seem to be real nice rotors, though not the quality or HD rating of the Raybestos units. I used their 911 disk brake pads and shoes also, they stop true and quick, but again not in the same league as the EGR Carbon/Kevlar pads. They also produce much more dust then the ERG pads. Bottom line is they were better then stock, so performance was improved, but the Ford is a cheaper truck then the dodge and not nearly as heavy, so it only got the better brake parts not the best ones.

I went to the www.brakewarehouse.com for all the parts, good luck

 

[Dartman]

Y-Not; Some people don't think it is wise to use the drilled rotors for our application do to cracking at the holes. Any problem with your's on the Dodge? Any advantage to drilled rotors, maybe better cooling? Sounds like some people like the looks. At least that is how I see companies push their product. BTW, seen the photo of your front rotor and looks good. Thank you again, Tony.

 

[y-knot]

You know cross drilled rotors got a bad name when they first showed up in the racing world, not my the racers, but by the folks that wanted their rotors to look like racing rotors, so they took them off and drilled them their selves. Not a good ideal. Stick a drill in the hand of a want-a-bee racer with no since, and you get less then perfect results. The truth is many experienced rotor failures, but it wasn't because of bad rotors, just stupid people dilling out their stockers.



I've had several race vehicles and many cars and trucks with up-graded braking systems, I have never had a problem with a gas slotted or cross-drilled rotor. I have had a rotor explode on a car, but it was a bad casting, and that was a different issue.



I am very, very pleased with the Raybestos rotors and the EGR pads, I do not see how they could be any better, the difference was noticeable and very positive. I also like the low dust now with the front rotors, much nice to keep the Alcoa's clean.

 

[The Adjuster]

Y-Knot is correct, having been in the racing game for many years I agree it was the backyarder's, wannbe's and sub standard brake shops that were trying to make a $200 Brembo rotor out of a $20 import aftermarket rotor ... in fact all they were creating was show pony rotor for those who wanted to look like they had the top $ race products. The sub standard rotors were out of balance, had holes drilled through the rotor vane material, did not have the countersunk holes nor the micro finished edging on the slots thus creating an even weaker rotor than the cheap import already was, and a rotor that tore up a good set of pads in 20K miles.



Unfortunately, these sub standard rotors are still out there (just look on eBay) and tend to give a bad name to the leading edge companies that actually have a great product.



If you are looking to do a rotor upgrade, the drilled or slotted or even both are a great upgrade if you do a lot of hot brake work (racing, towing etc) just stick with the mainstream top end brands … if it costs less than $150 a rotor I would be seriously looking and asking questions about the manufacture and warranty if it is less than $100 per rotor forget it, it will be junk …



We fork out $600 for a boost box, $500 for injectors $300 for an air filter setup plus numerous other goodies to make you go faster why skimp on the only part of the truck that is going to stop you safely.

There is nothing wrong with drilled rotors, they are one of the best upgrades you will ever do to the safety side of your truck, but you only get what you pay for.



Just my tax free $0. 02 worth



Kevin

 

[snowracer69]

You guys can say what you want... a drilled rotor is a stress concentration problem waiting to happen, ESPECIALLY running 8000 lbs at 80 MPH and trying to stop it suddenly.



I am the guy with the cryoed rotors. Rhonda just ordered a set from ART too, so we'll see what she has to say about them when she gets them put on. I still like mine a whole bunch, and actually understand what is going on when you cryo-treat a set... there is a difference.



Josh

 

[The Adjuster]

snowracer69, I am not saying anything bad about the Cryo's, it sounds to be a great technology, and can be applied to more parts than just the rotors ... I am just speaking about my experience with my drilled rotors.



I tow a 48' 3car wedge all over the country in all weather, running empty the trailer weighs in at 5500 Lbs and loaded with 3 cars weighs in at ... well right around 15k - 20K Lbs depending on the cars.



I upgraded my brakes to SP Performance drilled rotors and their Sp graphite/metalic pads about 2 years ago (about 55K on the truck then) when the factory rotors warped out on me, so I now have right around 100K miles on these rotors I was doing around 2000 miles per week (Yuppers per WEEK) and have just replaced pads, rotors were still within tolerence after turning and have had no runout problems, hot spots or cracking ... YET



My experience with them has been great ... and yeah I have heard and seen some horror stories but none yet for me on this truck or the race cars I have had ... I dare say that the next pad change will require new rotors and I will look at the different options when that time comes ... these new Cryo ones are getting good raves in the racing world in the brake dept and internal engine components so they can only get better.



How much does a pair of these rotors cost, I paid like $189 each for these SP's 2 years ago so hate to think what they are now.



Kevin

 

[Dartman]

I was quoted $374. 00 for the cryo rotors from ART. Don't mind paying the money, just need more info. They use TRW or Centric castings.



Kevin; The SB's I looked up were $281 - $297 a pair for my '99 depending if you want just slotted, cross-drilled and slotted, or "diomond slotted". Y-Not has a link on this post for these. How did you turn them? On the truck, off the truck w/or w/out hub removed?



Had my stock rotors turned w/hubs installed but he had runout while turning them. Have a DC manual and they recommend turning them on the vehicle. Live and learn. Left side is @ . 018 and right @ . 007. Suppose to be no more than . 005.



Just went through my brakes and just need the rotors. Took my time rebuilding the calipers, polished the slides to #600, EGR lines, ATE Blue fluid, larger rear wheel cylinders and speed bleeders for mainenance ease. They work a hell-of-a-lot better except for the shudder between about 30 - 10 MPH after turning the rotors. Started all of this 'cause of the brakes were pulling left. At least I fixed that problem!



Thanks again guys. Have gotten a lot of tips and info from a good group of folks!! Tony

 

[The Adjuster]

Dartman, he did mine on the vehicle, took him a while to set it up because of it being a dually, the extensions gave him some woes with the rig he uses ... he only touched them enough to rough them for the new pads and remove the slight lip that had formed (I think he said it was about . 003 on the lip ... not sure though) ... It took him longer to set up on each side than it did to turn them ... he was mumbling something about these things should be classed as medium duty for all the work involved . . not light duty :-laf



Also have the speed bleeders on mine ... I love them, will be doing a complete rebuild on mine at the next pad change, including the master cylinder, my truck will have over 200K on it by them so it is time



Kevin

 

[Glen Pratt]

I just put a set of EBC slotted/dimpled rotors on my truck. I ordered them from Tire Rack. Very happy with them. -Glen

 

[Dartman]

Thank you for the input, everyone. Soon as I get done with this class I'm taken will be ordering either EBC's or Super Stops. Tony

 

[ben_ak]

I have EBC Slotted & Dimpled rotors on my truck. I use them with the OE brake pads (NOT Mopar "value line") and have very good luck. My stock rotors warped severely at about 25k (40% of my 2nd set of front pads remaining). I've had the EBC's from Tire Rack on for over 30k now and they still stop smooth and I'm getting better life out of my pads - 30k miles and I still have 35-40% pad life remaining.



-Ben.

 

[Bloomy]

Dartman,



I use EGR rotors, pads, and calipers. Rotors are slotted. Pads are carbon-kevlar. I originally put the pads and rotors on a little over two years ago. I just replaced the pads and calipers because my stock 188,000 mile calipers finally failed. I also installed the larger wheel cylinders in the rear drums. They work considerably better than the stock. I also ordered their master cylinder since I just determined that mine is also shot. It was an expensive week along with a front hub assembly. Check out their website. www.egrbakes.com.



Thomas