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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Which cam plate?

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BMoeller,



Thanks - your right on the specs - that's incredible gain for a simple mod.



Considering I will be adding a plate for towing purposes - should I be adding the # 8. I hear of the #10 being so popular but is this also true for the 1995 175 pump?



Also TST shows #10 as NR for 175 pump. Is this because it would not have a noticeable increase in power?



Thanks,



Paul.
 
Considering I will be adding a plate for towing purposes - should I be adding the # 8. I hear of the #10 being so popular but is this also true for the 1995 175 pump?



Yes a #10 would be what you want! Here is a dyno sheet of an almost 300k 95' 5 speed with a #10, 4k's, stock turbo and housing, straight exhaust and stock injectors. You tell me if you think it worked! That chart your going by is on a reference!



Jim



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BOTW, on that little pump if you go with 4K's you won't need the valve springs as there is not enough pump to ever get the RPM's.



Jim
 
Well the chart sure makes me a believer in that a #10 has enough effect on a 175 pump - thanks for taking the time to post.



And 800 foot pounds torque - impressive - acceleratoin should double (mathematically speaking that is).



Next question is - is a #10 that exibits this kind of power usable when towing 6k or 12k loads (hills). Just thinking in terms of EGT. Sustainable torqe increase is really what I'm after rather than torque that can only be used in sport driving. Can the power in the curve above be used constantly for hours on end.

The comparison would be the stock engine - could it be run at max power for hours on end without damage from heat - this is my understanding.



Sorry to beat this to death - just trying to really understand what the effects are on the engine for these types of power increases.



Now what would be really cool would be to run engines at incremented power levels above stock continuously until failure while measuring temperature at various engine locations (simplified data parameters). This way engine life could be characterized as a function of continuous duty power. Only problem is it would let's say a rather large budget.



Thanks a bunch.



Paul
 
Paul, I should have put everything in the post and failed to do so. I set the plate up for max power, about . 050 or so forward of the middle and set the Gov arm for it to come in hard about 1700 (he has a Southbend Con O clutch) he drives this truck everyday and tows some but on the test run by the house I was having a hard time getting over 1100 degrees(pre-turbo).



No problem with asking questions on the TDR, that's what were here for!



Jim
 
Slide plate?

I just installed a #11 and slid the AFC housing all the way toward the front of the truck. Now is this what everyone calls sliding the plate foward? I am still new and am confused. Also when I installed my kit they had a tuning part that said to adjust the star wheel but I mine is already so far towards the front of the truck I just left it alone.



Is this the the best setup for a #11 (#11, AFC slid all the way to the front and star wheel all the way), or can I do something different?



Thanks, and wish I would have read this before buying the #11, would have toned down the #10 untill I could get a clutch, but the guys at TiM from TST didnt mention that part. Oh well, got 30 days to exhange for free or $50 after that.
 
Jim, could you explain what you mean by setting the Gov arm for it to come in hard about 1700. I had to adjust the gov. arm when I put in the #6 and was wondering what other adjustments there are that con be made to it. I assume that you are talking about moving the gov. arm up the plate profile a bit but not sure.



TIA, Jordan
 
Re: Slide plate?

Originally posted by TrqMonster

I just installed a #11 and slid the AFC housing all the way toward the front of the truck. Now is this what everyone calls sliding the plate foward?



Sliding the plate forward is not the same thing as the AFC housing. Sliding the plate, would be sliding the #11 you just put in. Slide it forward for more power.



You probably could've gotten a #10, but you would have to slide it to the rear, 'til the new clutch was put in. You may need to put in a bigger turbine housing on the turbo to help control EGTs.
 
Turbine housing

What size housing would I need to move up to exactly? (to help with EGT's)



Thanks for the info, I figured that I should have moved that plate up like I heard people talk about but it was my first time in the pump and I was following the TST instructions which I didnt see anything about sliding the plate around although I may have read over it. Even though the plate isnt all the way foward it was still noticeable especially the increased boost pressure with the new wastegate fitting.



Also what about my star wheel, it is all the foward I think? And what are the AFC spring kits that Piers sells?



Thanks for the help.
 
Piers told me the AFC spring kit allows you to set up the AFC the way you want it without having to re adjust it several times (smoke control) to get it set the way you want. You have a choice of either a 14 cm or 16 cm housing.
 
Just an opinion here but jumping from a 12 housing to 14 isn't much, now go to a 16 and your talking, and depending on the amount of fuel you have an 18. 5 is not out of the question.





Jordan, on the #10 you can make this type of adjustment as the plate profile is a nice smooth half moon cut, with it you can lower the arm and make it come in later or raise the arm and it will come in sooner.



Jim
 
So if you have a 10 and raise the arm you'll have more low end? Just curious because I'm mostly interested in 1500-2600 or so RPM. Low end punch ya know. 5 speed's a real dog dropping 800-plus RPM every time you go up a gear. :mad:



How much difference is there in lag between a 12 and 16? e. g. If a 12 comes on at a certain RPM, how much higher does the 16 come in? Used to have a 944 Turbo Porsche that didn't really get spooled up until almost 3200 - but when it did - holy cr@p - afterburner. Oo.
 
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Re: Turbine housing

Originally posted by TrqMonster

I was following the TST instructions which I didnt see anything about sliding the plate around although I may have read over it.



You didn't miss anything. With the guide that comes with the plate, you are putting it in the stock location.



If you want to move it, make sure to make scribe lines. This way you can move it back to stock, if need be, at a later date.
 
Tom, your going to have to please yourself here, I would put the arm just over the nose a tad (with the fuel shut off up) and try that, I'd bet you would be close to what you want! If not then raise it just a little and try that.



Jim
 
Another question:



On the TST power kit, the wastegate control fitting has an allen head adjustment screw which they said to leave alone or it will effect boost. Know being the way I am makes me want to adjust to get more boost. Has anyone had any experience with this fitting? How much boost is recommended out of the stock turbo?

I am hitting about 30 PSI now that I installed that fitting.



Thanks for all the good help.
 
The #10 seems to be the favorite if you have a GSK. Either the 10 or 11 will be too much for your stock clutch. The 10 has more low-mid and defuels more than the 11 in the upper RPMs. I like the 10 but went to the 11 for less smoke. I'm thinking about adding a valet switch and going back to the 10 but the 11 is a nice plate with no GSK.
 
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