Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Which Clutch?

[Stranger]

My '02 may need a clutch in a little while.

Which one is recommended?

Stock truck, daily (kinda) driver, pulls our 13K 5'er.



Cost is an issue.



Thanks in advance.

 

[Curious Dave]

Give Dave Blumenthal a shout at Blumenthals in OKC. I got an upgraded clutch for my large diameter NV5600 for 750. 00. I didn't feel that was bad.

 

[Grizzly]

Is there any clutch better than a Southbend?

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Is there any clutch better than a Southbend?

HMmmmmmm - sorta like, "is any oil better than Delo 400 CI4-Plus for a diesel engine" - opinions vary!... :-laf



SB does have a proud, well earned, and vocal following, but the "COST is an issue" statement MIGHT steer the final decision a bit - especially for those without the deep pocket "you get what you pay for" motivating criteria controlling their choice - in other words, SOME of us are simply too damn POOR to automatically go to what many others automatically accept and recommend as "top dawg" in the selection process!



Look around a bit for alternatives - one excellent one might be TDR's own GCroyle - Gary can provide lots of help in choosing a clutch that provides both economy of price, WITH performance in operation...



Whatever you end up choosing, good luck!

 

[obert]

I guess it might depend on the clutch model, but do you have to change the input shaft to go up to a 13" clutch? I haven't contacted any vendors yet, just now starting the shopping.

 

[jkalchik]

I just had an SBC conOFE 13" conversion put in my 99 w/ an NV4500. No change to the transmission was necessary.

 

[BDaugherty]

You should call and talk to one of the "clutch guys". I know it may not be a fair comparison, but my local Dodge dealer wants $600 for a OEM clutch kit. If you ask nice, SBC will usually knock a little off the price. I think my Con OFE for a NV5600 lists at $700.

I don't know what transmission you have, but if it's a 5600 and you don't have in big HP plans, then I say get the Con O. If it's a 4500, then I'm not so sure. Biggest thing to me is to only have to do it once. I wouldn't want to buy a cheap clutch that will fall apart when towing heavy or one that wasn't up to the task if you were to add a little HP.



I've run my OFE pretty hard with the Juice turned up and a 4 door Ford dually on a 32' trailer up and down some hills. I've been pretty happy with it and either it has gotten smoother with time, or I finally learned to drive a South Bend Clutched 6spd. Maybe some of both.

 

[obert]

In '01 when my stock clutch started slipping, the dodge replacement was ~$500, no throw-out bearing. Went to the local 4x4 shop (not there anymore), they recomended the centerforce I have now ($505 WITH TOB). STOCK truck, daily drive, lots of hauling in the summer. It has performed well, and still holds very well but I think the hub is going out. From what I read from SBC, thier similar units do good towing, but will NOT hold over 600 lbs torque without damge.

Since '01, Ive added mods, and a dyno day a while back revealed a modest 612lbs at the wheels, which might be why the centerforce only lasted 110k miles (the stock unit died at 70k). I'm planning on the extra coin for a "better" clutch, at this point I'm looking at SBC and Valair. Interestingly, the lower end units that fit my HP/TQ output generaly end the description with "NOT recomended for towing". The tow/haul units are rated more like 1000lbs tq, and less agressive. I would have thought the best/thoughest clutches would have been right for me, but it looks like the best for tow/haul are the kevlar, ceramic blend, even organic type, those super tight ceramic button models must be too much hell on the driveline.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

I suspect the "not for towing" statement might be the tendency to chatter the more aggressive clutches display - sort of a shame for that limitation, when TOWING is exactly why some of us increase power to begin with...

 

[bboxall]

Best clutch I have ever used is my new South Bend.

 

[BDaugherty]

SouthBend now uses an upgraded hub that will hold the low end torque much better than stock style hubs that only have upgraded friction material.

 

[darkhorse]

I tow my horses with my South Bend OFE with no problem. I know Peter doesn't recommend the FE for towing livestock but I've read posts here from those who tow with it without much problem. The metallic facing is a little grabbier than the organic.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

I've tow my horses with my South Bend OFE with no problem. I know Peter doesn't recommend the FE for towing livestock but I've read posts here from those who tow with it without much problem. The metallic facing is a little grabbier than the organic.

YUP - the LUK cerametallic I use can get a bit chattery at times - especially when backing the 5er uphill - but certanly, never has slipped! :-laf

 

[RBertholdt]

I've towed 13K+ through-out Maine to W VA mountains for the last few years with a 99,

3500 NV4500 with any issues on a SB OFE. The only thing is when I'm backing the load I

will use 4WD Low because of how tight the clutch is. The truck itself is not at all stock and when I'm driving I Will keep up with the traffic. The clutch has about 80K of towing

[not just driving around town] on it. I believe I don't want my family and I sitting on the side of the mountain in the middle of noware because marginal parts at best in my truck.

I travel with a truck camper into places were there is now help

So I'd rather save and spend more now then later. Hope this info helps.