Which Exhaust brake?

[Big Mike]

Hey guys, I am looking to buy an e-brake. which one would be the best? I am planning to do the heavier valve springs to gain full use of whichever brake I buy.



Thanks

 

[kshimizu]

I've had both the PacBrake and BD. I would have to say the BD has more stopping power, especially at lower RPM's.

 

[RHARVEY]

US Gear D'cellerator here! You dont have to change the springs for it to work. This brake is wastegated so that when the back pressure reaches the pre-set gate pressure it will bleed off the extra.

I have been down 6-7% grades with a 10. 5k 5th wheel behind me and the brake was able to hold it. I start at the top of the hill in 3rd gear at about 38 mph and by the time I have reached the bottom I have gained about 6 mph. I also have a gauge connected to the brake so that I monitor the backpressure in the motor. I see right at 30 lbs of backpressure at 2800 rpms...

This brake works... . and the nice part you dont have to change the springs to get it to perform...



Rick

 

[Grey Wolf]

US Gear here too, works great for me

 

[HBarlow]

Big Mike:



As a loyal Cummins engine owner and fan I'm also loyal to Jacobs which is a Cummins subsidiary or affiliate. I like the fact that the Jacobs brake can be purchased at any MOPAR or Cummins parts counter and installed or serviced if ever necessary at a Dodge or Cummins dealer. I also like the fact that Cummins does extensive testing of Dodge platforms with Cummins engines and Jacobs exhaust brakes. Anyone who has read posts by Carlton Bale, a Cummins-Jacobs engineer and TDR member, understands why some of us appreciate the technical support we receive from Cummins and Jacobs.



I purchased a Jacobs brake at a discounted price from the dealer at the same time I purchased my truck. The brake was installed by a line mechanic at my Dodge dealer, also at a discounted price. The brake has now provided 134,000 miles of trouble-free daily operation. The only problem I experienced was a minor technical incompatibility between the Dodge APPS and the exhaust brake activation circuit. Carlton Bale diagnosed the problem and provided all the information I needed to successfully process a warranty claim to have a Dodge dealer install an improved APPS. That cured the problem.



Some members have expressed opinions about how one brand of exhaust brake provides better stopping power than another brand. I can't understand how that could be true. If you think about it, the factory turbo outlet remains the same diameter regardless of which brand of exhaust brake you attach to it to block exhaust flow. All brands of brake would have to use the same diameter housing to match the turbo housing and the housing size determines the diameter of the butterfly valve that blocks the exhaust outlet. How can one provide more or less braking power than another brands?



Harvey

 

[jelag]

Braking is a physics formula... same back pressure, same rpm, same retarding HP... .



I suggest that you consider going to the web sights of each vendor... .



Look for in house engineering, in house manufacturing, and vendors that sell to all engine classes. . that will take you down to 2 suppliers... . PacBrake and Jacobs... . There currently is a stop sale order on the Jacobs unit into the dodge PU..... Dodge dealers have been told to stop the sale of the Jacobs unit for quality reasons and as of this date I don't think thats been lifted.....



Once you've seen the web sights you can make an informed decision.....



Hope this has been of some help...



Jim

 

[NIsaacs]

The reason some e-brakes work better, is the design of the restriction. Some use one or two predetermined orfice sizes. Two openings with standard valve springs, for about 30-35 psi backpressure max. With heavy springs, they use one opening for 60 psi max at max rpm. So at low rpm, the bleedoff prevents much backpressure or hold back.



The other type uses an offset shaft on the butterfly. With heavy springs, they are set at 30-35 psi at idle speed. They build up preassure early in the rpm band for more hold back. The offset will let the butterfly over come the backpressure at 60 psi and hold it there all the way up to max rpm.





"NICK"

 

[Loren]

Mike,



I have had a U. S. Gear brake since about 1997. It was first installed on my 1995 truck and then moved to the new truck when I got the 2000.



When it works, it works great. Sometimes it doesn't work. I've had a few major problems with mine and a few minor ones. I would vote for a brand with better reliability.



Loren

 

[Bloomy]

Mike,



I have the PacBrake that I purchased used. Easy install and not a single problem yet. I had some questions about it and talked to PacBrake directly. Very helpful and courteous.

 

[RHARVEY]

I bought the US Gear brake that I mentioned above with 40k on it. . The brake is used everytime that I use the truck.

With this brake. . there are no holes in the baffle to let exhaust thru. Once you build 30lbs of backpressure... then the wastegate starts to open to maintain the backpressure.

I also like the idea that its down stream in the exhaust instead of hanging on the turbo. .



Rick

 

[dresslered]

My vote went with with the Jacob's. The people that design our engines probably know a thing or two about designing the exhaust brakes for them. I find it a great feature to have it operate with a slight delay controlled by the ECM so that you can shift without the brake coming on. I also have a gear shift mounted switch so that I can turn it off at stop lights. It is also the ONLY exhaust brake that I have never heard of anyone having a problem with.

 

[Turbo Thom]

Now as most know, I also have the de-celerator. Trouble with it? None here is 5 years. I saw a BD brake on a truck at Jeff's shop today. I wouldn't have it. Cost the owner a new AC line. I like the brake under the truck. I really can't say anymore about it. I've said it before on many post, you can't beat it.



. . Preston. .

 

[smartineau]

I have loved my Pac-Brake up until yesterday on the drive into work. I noticed quite soon when I came up to the stop sign that it was not working. I took a quick look tonight, all the wires seem intact, and the same for the air hoses. I bleed off some air and the compressor still works.



So my guess is some electrical SNAFU, I'll take a look Thursday or Friday.



steve

 

[Sticks]

US Gear SD here. I have not towed anything big yet, but I have noticed that the more weight I have in the truck the better it seems to work.



I have had my share of problems with it, but they have all been of my own doing. I run a completly different switch setup that allows me to have it either turn on automattically when I am off the throttle AND clutch, or on demand via a thumb switch on my shifter. (see readers rigs first gallery).