Which Exhaust Brake

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I am new the the forums and looking for some opinions and information about the exhaust brakes on the market. I have visited all of the web sites for Pacbrake, Jacobs E-brake, and BD. I like what I see with BD, but would like information for users.

'99 QC, 5 spd, LWB, 4X4

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Welcome to the club. . I wrestled with that issue for over 6 months. Likewise, called and spoke to all the vendors but in my case, I have a 96 2500 with auto - and you already know the ongoing debate with exhaust brakes on auto's! In addition, I also wanted those plastic fittings in the transmission lines removed/replaced.
I am also a "picky" guy and wanted the contemplated work done proffessionaly so here in WA state, took the time to visit and interview all the vendor agents. . What an experience with all the different approaches, recommendations, and advice. Finally settled on a shop called PowerShop in Enumclaw since they not only had product knowledge, a live test vehicle, but willing to work with me on the total package and installation.
I settled on the BD Exhaust brake with the BD TorqLoc. Installed Geno's combo gauge and transmission temp gauge. Also installed deep transmission (MagTec) pan, replaced all transmission lines with metal fittings and Amsoil transmission fluid. The setup works great and don't have to fiddle with mystery switch since the TorqLoc takes care of driving conditions for the most part.
We tow a 96 31 ft. Holiday Rambler Custom with slide out. Trailor weight at 10,000 lbs.

Good luck - Lou

PS - The Jacobs exhaust brake do NOT have a predrilled hole for EGT probe. Pac Brake and BD units are supplied with the hole/plug ready for an EGT probe.

 

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Fogie,

I also talked to every manufactor and concluded that the BD seemed to provide the most braking ability and the Cummins/Jacobs provided the best warranty. Therefore, my final solution was to get the Cummins/Jacobs for the 96' truck. Since we only tow 10K lbs max, I was sure that the Cummins/Jacobs brake would provide sufficient braking.

We have had the brake for almost two years and love it. The previous downhill adventures with burning truck brakes is now a calm 50-55 mph stroll with only the exhaust brake. When Cummins installed the brake, I also got them to drill/tap/plug the elbow that they did free of charge. But, since I have install gauges on my 94' truck and opted to intall the pyro in the exhaust manifold for more accurate temp. Cummins installed our brake for $1100. This included the 60# valve springs.

Good luck,
Tim

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94' 2500 4x4, std cab, 12v, 5spd, gauges, TST 230/605, muffler elimination, gutted cat, Premium Blue 2000 oil@5k miles, 110k mi.

96' 2500 4x4, ext cab, 12v, 5spd, Cummins Exhaust brake, Premium Blue 2000 oil@5k miles, 50k mi, 8-10K lb 4-horse trailer (wifes truck)

Phx, AZ

 

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I looked at all of the brakes and chose the E-brake (liked the warranty, and the Cummins dealer). The fact that the E-brake doesn't have a predrilled orifice for a pyrometer was of no consequence since I feel (and have installed it already) that it should be pre-turbo, not post - turbo). I have been very happy with the E-brake. It is a very clean install since it hooks up to the ECM, so it doesn't need a throttle switch to tell it when it is on idle ( I think the BD brake also has this capability, but I'm not positive). I do wish though that you could have it set to disengage when not moving. The hissing noise is a little annoying at a stop light (I leave it on all the time. Saves wear and tear on the regular brakes). I think either the PacBrake, the BD, or the E-brake would do you well. The US Gear one is very annoying with it's cycling noise all of the time). It is just a matter of choice, and the service you can get from the various vendors. Good Luck

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Rick G - Phoeniz, AZ
99 2500 QC LB 4X4 5-speed
3. 54 LSD, E-brake, ISSPRO Boost & EGT gauges, 285/75 16 on AR Atlas
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2000 Hitchhiker II 33ft 5er triple slide

 

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I've decided on the BD exhaust brake. Can anyone give me a clue as to what I should expect to pay including installation?
Thanks, Terry

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Terry Tucker, Terre Haute, Indiana, 4 wheel antilock brakes, 99 QC,LB,4X4,5SP,3. 54 LSD,SCOTTY CONE SHAPED K&N, TED JANNETTY 4 IN EXHAUST, PYRO AND BOOST GUAGES, RV INJECTORS, TST PowerMax, Prime-Loc fuel filter system, Rancho 9000 shocks, BriteBox, PIAA Platinum Bulbs, PIAA Driving and Fog lites, Geno's Cup Smoothie.

 

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What engine brake do I need? Jacob E- brake or BD exhaust brake with BD torque - lock? Atsome point I want to change to 4 inch exhaust from turbo back which brake would allow me to do this without changing the brake? Also which brake will work the best with the A/T? Do I still need a BD torque lock with the Jacob E- brake? I,ve been reading these posts but still cannot understand the difference between the two for my use? And what about cost difference and warranty?

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99-24v-SLT-Laramie-355 lsd-4x4-auto-reg. cab long box all options except cab lights and carpet K+N-Prime-Loc-Rino -Astroflex remote-Alcoa wheels--ALASKA

 

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Hi

I will be installing an exhaust brake soon after my on order truck arrives, and am wondering about the best method of activating the brake. What ON/Off switch are you guys using? Are most brakes tied to the excellerator pedal? Excellerator pedal only or in conjunction with a dash mounted swithc?? Does this vary with the different manufacturers? I would appreciate views on what works best, and what is available.
My present truck has a Pac Brake and is activated solely by a foot pad switch mounted be the left kick panel. Don't know if that is what I want next time.

Thanks

Vaughn Merryman

 

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The cummins e brake has an on/off switch in the dash, and is activated 1 1/2 seconds after you release the throttle pedal. This keeps it from activating while shifting gears. It works this way because it is a direct plug-in to the ecm. When I bought mine, I did look at others, except us gear. My father-in-law has one of those and the cycling really does drive ya nuts. I haul a lot of hay, and the e brake works great.

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Rob Hanson
1999 3500 SLT QC 4X4 Cummins
Flame Red, Rhino, 6 spd, 4. 10LSD, FX Running Boards, Cobra CB, Stinger Bug Shields, Mag-Hytec rear cover, Cummins E-Brake, Torklift Super Hitch, BD 4" exhaust, Blue Box, Halogen Backup Lights, 4"rear mounted tractor lights, Autometer SportComp Boost and EGT Guages,
Member of BOMB! (WW NW Chapter)

MyPics.com

I'd rather be... .
Cummin than Strokin.

 

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I INSTALLED THE U. S. GEAR . I CHECKED THEM ALL OUT. WHAT I LIKED ABOUT IT IT INSTALLED IN FRONT OF THE MUFFLER . QUICK INSTALL WITHE A SAWZ-ALL NO FUSS PLUS IT IS WASTE GATE'ED (BUILDS UP PRESS & MAINTAINS PRESS. ) THE REASON IT CYCLES WHEN YOU START TRUCK IS SOME PEOPLE INSTALL THEM AND DON'T USE THEME MUCH AND THE LINKAGES SEIZE.
IF YOU WANT TO TRADE TRUCKS REMOVE REINSTALL CUT OUT PIPE WITH TWO BAND CLAMPS REMOVE WIRES AND SW AND A HOUR LATER BRING IN THE NEW TRUCK.

 

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Had a U. S. Gear "C-cellerator" on my 94. Was instaaled by Camping World. Had nothing but grief with it from the get-go. Replaced the control module two times at a cost in excess of $200. 00 plus. Going down a grade West of Laughlin, NV. and kicked the brake on and it blew everything from the front of the brake to the rear completely off, Camping World did not want to honor their so called "Lifetime Installation Warranty. " Ended up settling for $300. 00 back on a $500. 00 repair. I went with the BD brake and Auto Loc on my y2k. Works great. As for the cycling on the Decelerator, It cycles twice at start up to keep the inside of the butterfly valve from getting a build up of carbon. Hated the Decelerator but love the BD. Paid $1,800. 00 for brake, auto-loc, and gauges in Portland, Or.
Good Luck

 

[Archive]

Had a U. S. Gear "C-cellerator" on my 94. Was instaaled by Camping World. Had nothing but grief with it from the get-go. Replaced the control module two times at a cost in excess of $200. 00 plus. Going down a grade West of Laughlin, NV. and kicked the brake on and it blew everything from the front of the brake to the rear completely off, Camping World did not want to honor their so called "Lifetime Installation Warranty. " Ended up settling for $300. 00 back on a $500. 00 repair. I went with the BD brake and Auto Loc on my y2k. Works great. As for the cycling on the Decelerator, It cycles twice at start up to keep the inside of the butterfly valve from getting a build up of carbon. Hated the Decelerator but love the BD. Paid $1,800. 00 for brake, auto-loc, and gauges in Portland, Or.
Good Luck

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2000 Ram 3500 4wd dualie W/B-D Exhaust Brake, Auto-Loc, Armr bed liner, DeeZee running boards, mud flaps, steps, leather, white with color splash on sides, would like to BOMB it, but after warranty.

34' King Of The Road 5th wheeler. Winter in Arizona (Martinez Lake)

 

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Just had the BD brake installed last week and so far I love it. I have the special switch on the gear shift lever of my 5sp. Use my brakes very seldom now.
Terry

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Terry Tucker, Terre Haute, Indiana, 99 QC,LB,4X4,5SP,3. 54 LSD,4w ANTILOCK BRAKES, SCOTTY CONE SHAPED K&N, TED J's 4 IN EXHAUST, PYRO AND BOOST GUAGES, RV INJECTORS, TST PowerMax, Prime-Loc fuel filter system, Rancho 9000 5-way adjustable shocks, BriteBox, PIAA Platinum Bulbs, PIAA Driving and Fog lites, Geno's Cup Smoothie, Mag-Hytec Diff Cover, BD Exhaust Brake.

 

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How much did the unit and install set you back?

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96 2500 CC 4x4 NV4500 3:54 3" body lift 2. 5" skyjacker class2 suspension lift
Dual steering stablizers dual shocks up front 265/75/16 street tires
36 12. 5 16 swampers for mud KN filter(round style)
turbo silencer in top of toolbox
muffler and res. out back in the shed
3" straight pipe in place

 

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Somewhere in the neighborhood of $1000 which includes the shifter switch kit. I can't be more specific because I had several other things done as well.

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Terry Tucker, Terre Haute, Indiana, 99 QC,LB,4X4,5SP,3. 54 LSD,4w ANTILOCK BRAKES, SCOTTY CONE SHAPED K&N, TED J's 4 IN EXHAUST, PYRO AND BOOST GUAGES, RV INJECTORS, TST PowerMax, Prime-Loc fuel filter system, Rancho 9000 5-way adjustable shocks, BriteBox, PIAA Platinum Bulbs, PIAA Driving and Fog lites, Geno's Cup Smoothie, Mag-Hytec Diff Cover, BD Exhaust Brake.

 

[Archive]

I'm interested in installing the Jacobs E-brake the new ETH engine, and I would like to have the switch on the gear shift lever. The Jacobs only comes with a dash mount switch. I think that I saw the switch for the BD brake selling for $30 separately. Is there anything special about these switches? Aren't they just regular make or brake contact switches. Since I have neither the truck or the brake in hand yet, any advanced advice would be appreciated.

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David Dressler
(Ordered) 2001 Driftwood 3500 Quad Cab 4x4, 155 inch WB, 5. 9L HO Cummins Diesel (ETH), 6-Speed HD Manual (DEE), SLT Plus, 3. 54 Anti-Spin Axle, Camper Special Group, Trailer Tow Group, Leather, Sliding Rear Window.

 

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David,

I too have been looking at the Jacobs Exhaust Brake and also want a shift lever mounted switch rather than the dash switch. Cummins Cal-Pacific in Ventura, California says no problem - they'll use the same two-speed axle switch that they've used for previous Ram owners who have requested the shift lever mounted switch.
This leads me to believe there is nothing special about the switch, even though BD's advertising makes a point of mentioning that only the BD is available with the lever mounted switch.

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Oops-------Just deleted a double post. #ad
#ad
#ad


[This message has been edited by Thomas (edited 01-27-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

Thomas! If you find any details about the E-brake switch, let me know. I have a brochure with a schematic for the PacBrake and all the switch does is toggle between +12V and ground--nothing special. Hella makes some switches that look like they would work great for the application (http://www.hella.co.nz/index.html). Another thought I had was to drill a small hole in the gear shift knob for a momentary micro-switch and have it control a small latch and relay up at the dash. The idea here would be a "soft touch" on/off control for the E-Brake. I am also waiting for the new E-brake that will accomidate the new turbo housing on the ETH engine.

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David Dressler
(Ordered) 2001 Driftwood 3500 Quad Cab 4x4, 155 inch WB, 5. 9L HO Cummins Diesel (ETH), 6-Speed HD Manual (DEE), SLT Plus, 3. 54 Anti-Spin Axle, Camper Special Group, Trailer Tow Group, Leather, Sliding Rear Window.

 

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I opted for the BD "Ultimate Kit" which included both the torqueloc and autoloc. I now find that if I do not press the o/d off button the autoloc does not allow the transmission to shift down while stopping. It results in a very rough stop. I thought the purpose of the autoloc was to prevent this, that's why I dished out the extra cash for it. Any suggestions, opinions, what have you? :-(

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2000 quad cab auto transmission, linex spray in, tow 11K 5th wheel Toyhouse. BD "Ultimate" kit exhaust brake includes autoloc for torque converter and pressureloc, pillar mount EGT & transmission Temp. Finally, I can admit to being a BOMB junkie.

 

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When I had my E-Brake installed I asked if they could put in a shifter mounted switch, and they said they didn't have one available. I asked them to just leave the switch hang loose down at the bottom of the shifter, as I would get my own switch and change it later. When I picked up my truck they had attached the rocker switch (facing up) to the transfer case shifter using tie wraps (has 3 black ones on it and doesn't move a bit). To make a long story short, I have never replaced that switch with the shifter switch, because I hardily ever turn it off. I use it all of the time and it saves a lot of wear and tear on the service brakes. If you like the look, the shifter switch is kinda neat, but I don't think it makes it any easier to use.

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Rick G - Phoeniz, AZ
99 2500 QC LB 4X4 5-speed
3. 54 LSD
E-brake, ISSPRO Boost & EGT gauges (mounted pre-turbo)
285/75 16 BFG AT KO on AR Atlas
Hadley Air Horns (no more wimpy horns)
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2000 Hitchhiker II 33ft 5er triple slide