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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Which first time injectors to buy?

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Diesel or oil

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I'm thinking about buying my first set of injector tips- maybe stage 2 or 3. Seems very reasonable @ just over $200 a set for a major boost. Jammers from City Diesel. Have heard a lot of positive comments on the forum about them. What is the highest stage can I safely go on a stock transmission & motor, aside from a 4" exhaust & K & N conical air filter? Thinking to get an Edge comp later down the road. Not planning a transmission upgrade at this point.



Any words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated, or other options to consider.



Thanks ahead.
 
With a stock transmission mine would only hold level 3 on my tst comp. and 33's. It would slip if i was going down the hwy. and got on it to pass but at a start it would hold a little more.



I would probably get the transmission done first then, shoot for the moon :D
 
Renoram said:
I'm thinking about buying my first set of injector tips- maybe stage 2 or 3. Seems very reasonable @ just over $200 a set for a major boost. Jammers from City Diesel. Have heard a lot of positive comments on the forum about them. What is the highest stage can I safely go on a stock transmission & motor, aside from a 4" exhaust & K & N conical air filter? Thinking to get an Edge comp later down the road. Not planning a transmission upgrade at this point.



Any words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated, or other options to consider.



Thanks ahead.



Ok, you have gauges. Dump the K&N and start saving for a custom transmission. Go in there once and do it right the first time. Then you will be ready to start power mods. I good transmission equals a mild mod in performance BTW. SNOKING
 
I've got Jammer stage 2's and love them. But I would not go with the tips - spend the $100 and get the injectors. That way you can pop the old ones out and new ones in and be ready to roll. Also lets the shop pick out a balanced set instead of a set that just happens to be in spec but unbalanced.



Otherwise make sure you have the injectors flow and pop tested after changing the tips and before you put them back in. Will save hassles and heartache down the road.
 
I ran Jammer 4's and really liked them. I pulled them and sold them to a friend but wish I still had them.



Definately do your transmission first. Figure out where you want to be (sounds like Jammer 3s and a comp) and build the transmission for that.



If I had the money I spent selling this, then buying that, I could have a lot more by now. Do it ONCE and do it the way you want.



That is the best advice. It will cost you less money in the long run but requires more patience. So, basically, don't do anything that I did. :-laf



BTW, several people told me the same thing and i never listened. Now my wallet is lighter and I have ended up right where they said I would. Just broke more parts along the way.
 
About a 80hp increase is the max you can hope for out of a stock trans, IMO. Also if you go any bigger then that (even possibly at that level), without a box, or boost fooler, you'll set boost codes, and the ECM will defuel because of over boost.



My $. 02. Best would be to do the transmission first, but I know it's a lot to spend at one time. If you can't do the transmission first then buy a comp box, and don't tap the pump wire until you do the transmission. If you are set on injectors, then stay around a 80hp injector. This will cost you more in the long run, because once you do the transmission, you will be selling the 80hp injector for some 150hp ones. Don't ask me how I know... :-laf



Paul
 
ditto on paul, thats exactly how I started only i tapped the wire and blew the transmission racing a camaro.



If your gonna go, go down in flames :-laf
 
If you are not going to upgrade the transmission, do not get the injectors now. You'll just replace them with a bigger set when you cook the transmission.



Get a Comp and run it with the wire untapped. It's about all your truck will handle. Mine started slipping with even that mild of an upgrade at 30K miles.



If you are going to buy sticks, but a bigger set thatn you think you need. Don's M4's are about the injector out there.



Dave
 
Yeah, these 4s are pretty remarkable. But I've remarked on them quite a lot, so that's all I'll say:D

For RenoRam: Either go small (MILD injectors and timing box) and hope the transmission holds, or go BIG and spend the coin for a bulletproof trans.

Sure, a full-boogie DTT is north of $5K, but I've NEVER heard a single person regret that great expense.

Personally, I'd leave EVERYTHING stock and save of for a kick-butt full tilt transmission.

Then bombs away as funds permit.

jh
 
Hohn said:
Yeah, these 4s are pretty remarkable. But I've remarked on them quite a lot, so that's all I'll say:D



For RenoRam: Either go small (MILD injectors and timing box) and hope the transmission holds, or go BIG and spend the coin for a bulletproof trans.



Sure, a full-boogie DTT is north of $5K, but I've NEVER heard a single person regret that great expense.



Personally, I'd leave EVERYTHING stock and save of for a kick-butt full tilt transmission.



Then bombs away as funds permit.



jh



Here! Here! Snoking
 
Hohn said:
Yeah, these 4s are pretty remarkable. But I've remarked on them quite a lot, so that's all I'll say:D



For RenoRam: Either go small (MILD injectors and timing box) and hope the transmission holds, or go BIG and spend the coin for a bulletproof trans.



Sure, a full-boogie DTT is north of $5K, but I've NEVER heard a single person regret that great expense.



Personally, I'd leave EVERYTHING stock and save of for a kick-butt full tilt transmission.



Then bombs away as funds permit.



jh



But it's so hard!!! For $1000 to $1500 I can blow my stock transmission to pieces but it's going to cost me $5000+ to beef it up! :{ I even took my EZ off as I've been towing a lot lately and you guys have been scaring the stuffing out of me! :eek:
 
paulb said:
If you are set on injectors, then stay around a 80hp injector. This will cost you more in the long run, because once you do the transmission, you will be selling the 80hp injector for some 150hp ones. Don't ask me how I know... :-laf



Paul



Ah, I've got a set of Don M's MACH 1. 6s 90 hp sticks, barely used less than 2000 miles on them that I'd be willing to sell - PM me if interested. You see these guys are right, I've only had them since late summer and I'm already looking to upgrade to the MACH 4s :-laf
 
alright... every time i have my mind made up you all change it. i've been convinced i need mach 1. 5's for a whilebut you're selling yours after 200 miles to go all the way to m4s? what am i missing?
 
foolkiller said:
alright... every time i have my mind made up you all change it. i've been convinced i need mach 1. 5's for a whilebut you're selling yours after 200 miles to go all the way to m4s? what am i missing?



The slippery horse power & torque slope :-laf - lucky you. And, I said less than 2000 miles installed around August 05.
 
Im in the same boat as Renoram, although Ive had my transmission redone. (included shift kit, valve body, and sun coast tripple disc TQ) am I safe to get 150 HP injectors?
 
Holysmokes said:
Im in the same boat as Renoram, although Ive had my transmission redone. (included shift kit, valve body, and sun coast tripple disc TQ) am I safe to get 150 HP injectors?

Maybe. As long as you aren't shifting locked to locked, you may be OK. Do NOT do boosted launches in 4wd, or you will discover why people warn not to do that without billet shafts.

There's more to setting up a trans than just the three things you listed. It has to be tuned, and pressures precisely set, and leakage fixed. Without proper setup, all the good parts in the world won't make a strong transmission.

You would be rolling the dice with 150hp sticks, depending on HOW the trans was done.

It's not just about the parts.
 
Holysmokes said:
Im in the same boat as Renoram, although Ive had my transmission redone. (included shift kit, valve body, and sun coast tripple disc TQ) am I safe to get 150 HP injectors?



Only if you leave the comp box turned off. You would have more problems then with the trans too. With the stock turbo you would have some real heat problems with a comp and 150 injectors. Running with just the 150 injectors and the comp off, you should be able to control the EGTs. BTW in this configuration I run 14. 4's in the 1/4 mile, and my EGT's never get about 1100* (I have much more air though... ).



It's really hard to tell how much your trans will hold, by what you have in it. It all depends on the pressures, shift points (1st, and 2nd), when it locks up, etc. My guess is with a comp on 5x5 you probably are at the limits of your trans. Again that's just a guess.



And like Hohn said... Don't do boosted launches without billet shafts.



Paul
 
It's not just about the parts.



There's more to setting up a trans than just the three things you listed. It has to be tuned, and pressures precisely set, and leakage fixed. Without proper setup, all the good parts in the world won't make a strong transmission.



I agree with you. Output shafts,Input shaft, are venerable. I guess the clutch bands would be somewhere in there or in the top 5 components. To be honest Im not looking to drag race or pull it, mabe just some fun from time to time on the street. (just enough to get me out to watch yall :D ). As it is right now it has been COMPLETELY gone through and had "better than stock" components put in it;including the housing as mine had a 6" crack in it. :eek: When it shift s now I KNOW ABOUT IT! Its not soft,gentle shifts. Its not kick your @$$ shifts either but VERY FIRM. I was under the impression this is beneficial as not to stretch bands and keep increased pressures. ?. The turbo is a HX-35 (ill be kneading air for anyone interested in a donation :-laf )



Maybe. As long as you aren't shifting locked to locked, you may be OK. Do NOT do boosted launches in 4wd, or you will discover why people warn not to do that without billet shafts.



:--) are you kiddin me? :-laf
 
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