Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Which Fuel Plate With Injectors

[BLeinart]

I've been reading many threads about injectors and fuel plates, but am still a little confused. I am looking to make about 300 hp on my 95, or maybe a little more. I was going to get some stage 2 ddp's, but cannot figure out which plate I should get. I would like to improve my milage with normal driving, but I have read some people talking about actually losing milage. I also remember someone mentioning problems with EGT's with certain setup's.

 

[MAleshire]

You haven't said whether you have a stick or auto which will indicate where you are starting with horsepower. Auto--160hp; Stick--175hp. Or if you tow an RV. If you are going with the DDP injectors give them a call and tell them what you want to do with towing, economy, hp, egt, etc. , and ask which injectors they would recommend. Also, go to BD Power - The Leaders in Diesel Performance and look at the cam plate application chart for your motor. If you have an auto trans you'll need to be careful about adding too much hp without beefing it up. Take a look at my signature and you can see how my '95 is set up. I'm running at about 330 hp and am set up for pulling a heavy trailer, but also have a 215 pump. Good luck!!



Skip

 

[MAleshire]

Oops, you did say that you have a manual transmission---sorry!

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Dynomite Diesel (DDP) can tell you about what the power will be with both their injectors and a torque plate, for different combinations. For the power level you want with good mileage, you may want to get Stage 1, or at most Stage 2 injectors. You will find that the #8 or #6 TST Power Kit (torque plate) will combine with the injectors to give the power level you want. If you are going to retain your stock turbocharger, you should stay with the most conservative combination (Stage 1 and #8 plate) because exhaust gas temperatures will probably reach or exceed the safe maximum of 1300 degrees in the exhaust manifold with the 280-290 HP that I expect will result from that combination.

 

[okayred]

I run a #6 plate (came with an adjustable waste gate elbow) and I started with a 175 pump and injectors.



I put the Bosch 285 RV injectors in first and that worked real nice (not 300 hp)



Then I smoked the stock clutch and went with a 450hp clutch/machined flywheel.



When I added the 3k GSK, I had no fuel on the top end. I had to upgrade the injectors again. I went with a custom set of 370's from John Gilbert (John Gilbert [gilbert-trucking@hotmail.com]) in Michigan.



Because I have a stock turbo, when I changed to the 370's I had to back the set screw adjustment on the turbo all the way out. I set it so that the max boost I would get was about 25psi.



Then I put the propane injection on and added another 100hp! I really have to watch my boost because it pegs out at around 45psi now with the propane injection on. The propane injection actually solved my top-end fuel issues. I can pretty much pull all the way to 3200 rpm strong now.



With the propane on, at 65 mph, I get around 22mpg unloaded. Not bad for a dually - real average of MPG too, not some BS number.



I pull about 16k 5th wheel and just have to watch the EGTs until I get a turbo upgrade.



Hope this info helps.

 

[BLeinart]

Anybody running a #5 plate with stg 1 DDP's? I was thinking about using this combo.

 

[BigPapa]

So you guys are running DDP II's and 370's with a plate, GSK, and STOCK turbo laying down @ 300hp???



I've got a friend that has a set of Diesel Dynamics Stage 3's I can use. Are they going to be WAY too much for my rig with the stock turbo?



Scott

 

[MAleshire]

Using the #5 plate and the DDP Stage I injectors you are going to be running the risk of tearing up your stock clutch. Call DDP and get their recommendations on plate and injectors needed to safely gain the HP you want.



Skip

 

[BLeinart]

I bought a 13" south bend since I still have factory clutch, so that shouldn't be a problem. The factory turbo is my only concern.

 

[CogginsP]

I have a factory clutch, factory injectors, self ground fuel plate and 3kGSK... I put down over 330 HP on the dyno. You don't need injectors to put down over 300 hp. The stock turbo is really only good to about 350 HP max anyways. Save the money on injectors and get a GSK instead

 

[MMcCallie]

Stage 3 injectors will allow plenty of power to well over 500 hp if you like. You can slide your fuel plate and AFC back if it is too much power or too much smoke. Fuel economy is really up to how you drive. My truck weighs 10,000 lbs but can get 19 mpg driving under 50 mph.

I don't see a need in paying a couple hundred dollars for a fuel plate when you can grind it yourself and slide it back and forth to tune it the way you want. Regardless you will probably need to upgrade your clutch. Extra RPMs is nice for shift flexibility but by the time you get to 3,000 RPMs your power will be trailing off very rapidly.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

A 215 HP engine will make over 300 hp with just the plate. Mine made a bit over 400 with a plate and a larger turbine housing for the stock HX35 turbo. However, egt's were way too high with the stock 12 sq. cm. housing over about 270 HP and with a 16 or 18. 5 sq. cm. housing over about 340 HP. The lower rated engines like the 175 HP won't go over about 280 HP with just a torque plate (and boost control elbow for the 12 sq. cm. housing).

 

[MAleshire]

Joe, what size turbo housing did you end up using on your truck with the HX35 turbo.



Skip

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

I found the 16 sq. cm. to be the best compromise for responsiveness and egt reduction. The bigger 18. 5 sq. cm. didn't really help egt any further, and it was slower to build boost, more smoky.

 

[hsmith]

I don't have any numbers, but with my setup, #10, DDP II's, GSK, Super B, etc, it really pulls strong and I can keep the egt's in check easily even towing.

 

[Forrest Nearing]

I Then I put the propane injection on and added another 100hp! I really have to watch my boost because it pegs out at around 45psi now with the propane injection on. The propane injection actually solved my top-end fuel issues. I can pretty much pull all the way to 3200 rpm strong now.

what is your timing set at? I suspect your top-end fuel issues may be low timing... propane adds timing

 

[okayred]

Funny you should ask... I went to set the timing to 16. 5* and when I did, I found that the timing was already advanced to 16* (I bought the truck used) so I just left it alone. Didn't seem worth all the trouble for a half of a degree...



I think I got some fuel pump info from JVaughn when I did the 3K gsk. It was like the whole top end just dropped out from under me.



I have heard that these P-pumps are dynamic in the way they can be adjusted - in other words one adjustment may throw off another adjustment.



After the increased injectors and propane, I got my top end back... but I'm not sure I am getting what I could get from the pump due to my lack of experience in pump work.



Any other ideas?

 

[Forrest Nearing]

these trucks are funky... static timing means it's always give and take. My 98 is currently at about 16* and it really depends on what RPM I lay into it... if I hit it down low and let the heat build up, it peters out around 2900-3000... if I lay into it at 2500 or more, it'll pull hard through 3000 to 3200-3400.



I know from experience more timing will really help, I just haven't been inspired to do it.



I've recently retired the truck from work duty, and I think I'll finally get around to installing my valvesprings and bumping the timing up to ~20* so that it'll pull hard and clean to 4000

 

[okayred]

... so it is safe to bump the timing up another couple degrees?



any drawbacks?

 

[Forrest Nearing]

you should be good with your head studs to crank it up to 18-18. 5 ish. I think you'll like the difference. I'd also get the baby springs to make your 3k a 4k