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Which gauges should I install?

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ISSPRO Boost Gauge Rattle

Mopar's 7pin Trailer Wiring Kit & MOUNTING

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I'm looking for some insight. I have a '96' 3500 5-speed with 172,000 miles. I've taken the TDR for atleast 3 yrs. and have bought some back issues. I've spent the last couple months on the web sight. I know I want to install a 0 - 1500 degree EGT gauge and a 0 - 50 psi boost gauge. I know I want to install the EGT pre-turbo.

This is where I need help. I can't decide what gauges to install and where to install them. I want my truch to look as stock as possible. I see 2 possible locations.

One is the cubby hole next to the cup holder. I originally wanted to get the dual gauge from Geno's but I'm concerned about Westach's durability in our diesel trucks and I think the face would be too confusing. The only other option I see for this location is the SPA dual digital. I have several concerns here. Is the display easily readible by the driver when installed in this location? I understand the display is not dimmable. At night on a dark country road (we have lots of them in Nebraska), would the display be so bright it would be a distraction? Would it fit in the cubby hole? I understand there is a push button switch that is used to access the menu. Can this switch be installed in the same cubby hole next to the gauge (you know - round peg in a square hole)?

The seacond choice is analog gauges installed on the A pillar. If I go this route I want the full pillar 2 gauge setup painted to match the rest of the plastic. If I use this location I want gauges that will look factory stock, ie: black face, white graphics, red pointer, and dimmable green backlight. I have read about every post I can find and checked the archives but still haven't found any consistant agreement on this point. I know some like Isspro, but others say the lighting is bad and the EGT looks different than the boost. I've also read mixed reviews on Autometer and Stewart Warner. I'm sure I've forgotten some other brands.

I appologize for the long post, but I intend on using this truck for several more hundred thousand miles and want to do this right the first time. Please give me the benefit of your vast experience, and THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP!!!!

Gene
 
Gene,Banks analog gauges come in the colors that match your truck. I have mine mounted in a bracket below the ashtray angled towards the left,they look great and are no problem to read. You can use a monkey condom to change the lighting color,I think Banks even has them. I personally don't like the A pillar mount,it feels like the gauges are sticking in your face. I've seen another mount that goes on top of the dash up against the windsheild,it doesn't block your view at all,but I'm not sure who makes them.

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks,Warn fender flairs and running boards(Play truck)95 3500,5 speed,driftwood,Banks&phscotty,34,000 GVW apple and tractor hauler(work truck)
 
I use the DiPricol gauges on a triple A pillar mount. It doesn't bother me or my view. I personally do not like digital gauges, you need to read numbers instead of looking at needle position to know where you are at. LCD displays might be hard to read in certain light situations, my experience from using by cell phone and digital watch. The DiPricols were recommended to me by TST, which also sells the Isspro. They told me the Isspro's lighting was not as good. I am very satisfied with the DiPricols, but I also have not seen any of the other gauges the other guys are using. I used AutoMeter gauges in my old '57 Corvette (wished I never sold it) and liked them a lot too.

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1996 3500 Clubcab SLT, auto, 4. 10 limited-slip, TST #5, 370s, AFC spring kit, Psycotty, Dunrite converter, Trans-Go, Straight pipe, DiPricol EGT, boost & trans temp. gauges, 9 ft. aluminum flatbed and tool boxes with Venco dump. Custom front bumper, Hadley air horn.
 
Gene:

I have been running the Combo Westach from Geno's for almost 4 years and 130K miles. It works fine and is easy to read. Have it in the cubby. There are probably as many Westachs in use as any other in our trucks.

Unless you need more the 35psi boost (limit of Westach) it does the job.

Gauges are all personal preference. You just pick what you like to look at.

jjw
ND
 
Gene:

Like you, I also own a 1996 Dodge Ram
Diesel. I have the "Gauges Plus" 3-
Gauge Cluster (Trans. Temp, EGT to 1500,
and Boost Gauge (to 50lbs. ) mounted
on the dash near the "A" pillar. The
gauges are Isspro.

This set-up is easy to read and does not
restrict your view. I am able to dim
or brighten my gauges in conjunction
with the knob to my headlights (as you
can do with your dash lights). I have
102,000 miles on the truck now and have
had no problems with the gauges, wires
or probes yet. My EGT probe is mounted
in the manifold, however, you can put
it after the turbo too.

Hope this helps you!

---------
John_P.


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Red '96 4x4 2500 Auto 3. 54, TST #5, Pump Mods, Banks Exhaust, Prime Loc, Cummins Chrome Kit, Pro-Torque Converter, BD Valve Body, Sendel 16" Alum Wheels w/ 33" BFGs
 
Gene:

My apologies to you. I entered all that
information for you but failed to give
you the name of a place you can order
the gauges and cluster from.

I ordered mine from the following
dealer:

Precision Power Injection, Inc.
714 N. LaFountain Street
Kokomo, Indiana 46901
Phone# 1-800-432-7269

Gene, the plastic gauge cluster comes
in black, but your local Dodge dealer
can sell you exact colored dash paint
to match the color of whatever dash
you have. Mine was gray and the Dodge
dash paint matched perfectly!

Sorry I forgot this!
 
Well if you're after a 0-50psi boost gauge,then your choices are narrowing down.
I have the Isspro's and love them. They're mounted on the A-pillar and lighting is better since I put a tad brighter bulb in the boost gauge.

-Mike

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'00 2500QC 4x4 6spd LWB SLT Dark Garnet/Agate,
The only two mods: 285/75/16 tires and limo tint windows. I wouldn't want to void that great warranty service!
 
How much suffering is involved in putting the EGT probe before the Turbo?

That seems the best place, but it would also appear to require the removal of the turbo to keep metal shavings out.

Mike
 
Bubba,
You can go pre without taking the turbo off. Just put grease on the drill bit and then clean it(the manifold) out with a magnet. I've done two that way. No probelms. However, it isn't that hard to take it off either. Both TST and Diesel Dynamics have good instructions on their sites.
www.tstproducts.com/gauge_install.html www.dieseldynamics.com

[This message has been edited by TradedV-10foraCummins (edited 09-06-2000). ]
 
Bubba,
I just finished punching a hole in the exhaust manifold. I was very apprehensive about doing it but wanted the EGT to be pre turbo. I followed a combination of the instructions using a bit of grease to catch most of the shavings and I used a shop vac while I was drilling. After taping the 1/4" npt I used the magnet method. All in all in was a very smooth and easy job. My turbo still works, so I guess nothing got in there to damage it.

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99, 2500 QC, Laramie SLT, 5 spd, 3:54 LSD, Sprayed Liner, Nerf Bars, K&N Stock, PacBrake, EGT (Pre & Post Turbo) & Boost Guage, PE.
Yet to come: 275 Injectors.
4" Exhaust.
 
Hey guys, thanks to all for your input. I took the big step today and ordered the SPA digital gauge and TST kit today from Diesel Injection Service in Tx.

Bryan, thanks for the pictures. I intend to follow your lead and install the gauge in the cubby hole. Did you use black lexan as a mount? If so how thick? If not, what did you use? That mount looks better than factory. Thanks again for everyone's input. The next big step will be trying to get those turbo mount bolts (with 173,000 miles - rust - on them) loose. Wish me luck!!!
 
Gene,

Ask around to see how other members would remove the turbo bolts but I would suggest heating them with a torch. I used Mapp gas to remove my elbow bolts and clamp when I put my exhaust brake on at 82K.
 
Bryan,

Thanks for all the input. It took me all day Saturday to install the gauges and most of Sunday to install the torque plate and AFC spring kit. I located a free piece of 3/16 black ABS like you suggested and installed the gauge centered and mounted flat in the cubby hole with the switch mounted lower right corner of the flat mount. I used some ABS cement to hold the mount in place. I hope I never want to change it!!! I mounted it perpendicular to the panel for three reasons; first, I was concerned that it may be too bright at night if it faced directly to me; second, I was afraid it would take me months to fabricate your compound angled mount (looks better than mine though); and lastly, my two boys like watching the gauge from the rear seat.

I soaked the turbo mount bolts with Liquid Wrench a week in advance. I shoved a shop rag in the manifold prior to drilling and tapping, used a magnet to clean out the chips, then pulled out the shop rag, used the magnet again and finially started her up for a second to blow out anything left (a hint from a former Cummins shop manager).

The boost transducer was too long to mount directly in the factory port in the intake manifold so I bought a hydraulic 1/8th inch street elbow. I didn't trust a cast unit from a plumbing supply house due to vibration.

The only real problems I had installing the power kit was removing the tamper proof screws ( I guess they were doing their job). I tried the trick using the torx 15, 20, and even 25 wrenchs, but finially had to use a hack saw blade to cut a slot and the hand impact tool to finially get each one removed. Do remember my truck has 175,000 miles on it and everything was stock except for a K&N intake filter.

I took her out Sunday night and did some hard accelerations up some interstate hills. The acceleration is very impressive! I started at the bottom of one hill at 65 and in a very short time I passing 85. It happened too quick for me to monator the gauge. Thank goodness it has a memory! I got 33" boost and 1302 degrees EGT. I don't like how quickly the temps rose, but I rarely run WOT. I don't have a cat, so my muffler may be creating too much back pressure.

A couple observations. 70 mph = 3 to 4 in boost and 6-700 degrees EGT depending on wind, AC, small hills. Slow down on a ramp and the EGTs drop immediatly to 300 degrees.

I also observed 2 in. boost, less than 200 degrees EGT at 2,000 RPM going down a hilly street. I mention this because I have read many threads talking about lowering the EGT to 300 degrees prior to shutting down so as to save the turbo, but no one mentions the turbo rpm. I used to deliver airplanes including turbo-charged planes. I was always taught to plan the taxi to tiedown so I could make it at full idle. If the parking was tight and I had to even just crack the throttle, I would start a new count down of several minutes. The reason is you want the turbo to be turning as slow as possible when you shut down the engine and turn off it's oil supply (it is still spinning at many thousand RPM). The turbo continues to spin for a long time with no new oil going to its bearings. As they say, just my $. 02.
 
Gene-

Small item: I believe you meant "psi" instead of "inches" for your boost values? There is acutally two different "inches" units for pressure, inches water (1 psi = 27. 7 "wc) and inches mercury (1 psi = 2. 04 " merc). Inches water is used a lot for low vacuum values. Turbo boost values are normally expressed as psi (pounds per square inch). Values are "gauge" value (i. e. , relative to barometric air pressure).

I ordered a twin-gauge A pillar mount (with tweeter) and the white face Autometer Ultra-Lite boost and EGT gauges. I like the 270 degree sweep analog gauges as you can get a mental image of what's going on without having to really read the numbers. I figured since they're way up on the pillar it didn't matter if they matched the black faced factory gauges anyway. The boost gauge only goes to 35 psi, but I am keeping the engine stock anyway so that should work good for me.



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Just got my 2001 2500 QC, SB, 4x4, ETH 6-sp, 3. 54 LSD, SLT++ (everything but those lights on top of the roof), White over Silver, Tan leather. Picked it up 8/31/00.
 
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