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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) which gen/year would you buy?

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) fuel shut off cable for a 98

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Just sold my 93, need 4wd. Now looking for my next dodge truck. Not sure which gen /year would be best bang/mpg/longevity for the dollar.



I need to tow now and then. have about 12k.



like my 93, but parts are getting hard to get, like intercooler, and injectors and upgrades seem more expensive.



Been told stay with the 12v engine easyier cheaper to fix than the 24v.



both 5 speeds have problems, would like HO 6speed but thats not going to happen. .



So any comments sugestions??
 
24v owner chimes in...

without a doubt, the best of the two trucks I have owned was the 98 12v quad cab. The 97's didn't have the quad cab... just the extra (without the second door. ) Easy to adjust valves, replace injectors, modify fueling, Better growling diesel sound than any other. If you get the 5 speed, get the 5th gear nut fixed asap... if you get an auto, get the full tilt rebuild with all the goodies... you won't be disappointed with either...



Good luck
 
DieselMinded means a 98 (12v) instead of a 98. 5 (24v).



I would have liked to find a decent and reasonable 98 12v 4x4 3500. After looking I settled on a 97 12v 4x4 3500. Just say no to the 53 block. ;)
 
98 12V 5-spd Ext Cab 4x4(the 12V,NV and Ext Cab of course and they are rare)

02 HO 6spd Ext Cab shorty 4x4 (found it but was sold before I got there)

04 2500 Quad Shorty Auto 4x4(all the right things but too much for my money, bro has a 04 3500 4x4 Dually)



And well my truck, 02 2500 Reg Cab ETC/NV4500 with a shell (wish it was a HO/6, oh well)
 
Ive had five dodge/cummins so far. Three 12v'rs and two 24's. my take is if you like a stockish truck and dont need a ton of horsepower (300-325) get a 12v. the reason i say that is on the mechanical pumps you dont have the ability to tune on the fly. if you build a 500 HP 12v'r its 500HP all the time. and some times that's not such a good thing.



I'm here telling ya, you dont need to waste your money on the high dollar lift pump kits. for a $100 bucks or so you can put a Carter at the tank and forget about it. or for a few more bucks do away with the stock LP and put a High volume Carter or Mallory at the tank and forget about it. injector swaps are about the same in task on either engine. fuel delivery is where they are seperated. you have to crack the pump and modify the AFC springs, governor springs and change the DV's and then have to time it on the 12V's. all of which i have the tooling and skills for but most folks dont. Spend 30 minutes wiring a fueling box of your choice and your done on the 24v's.



auto or manual? depends on what you plan to do with it. if you tow heavy or have alot of HP you will need about $4k for an auto that will hold. if you stay in the 300-325hp range the 5 or 6spds are fine with a simple clutch upgrade and 5th gear nut fix. 400+HP and a billet input shaft and higher cost clutch comes into play (mine was $2700 for both). if you plan to race it at any HP level the auto is the way to go again.



Me, I'm waiting for the Mega cabs to hit the used market and until then my 24v 550HP twin turbo 5spd (getting an auto this winter) suits me just fine. push of few buttons and my wife or anyone can drive it like it was bone stock again. push a few more and i can tow 10,000lbs down the road as if it were empty, yet a few more pushes and i can put a whipping on a mustang or camaro a the drag strip.



that's hard to do with a mid-highly modifed 12v but can be done if performed correctly and maintained well.
 
'01. 5 or '02! They have the disc brakes in the back! My buddy has a '97 and mine sounds a lot better than his! :-laf This, of course, is just my opinion.
 
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