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Which oil gets the best lab results?

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Which oil is best? (preferably backed by lab results)

  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 3 5.5%
  • Amsoil

    Votes: 24 43.6%
  • Rotella

    Votes: 10 18.2%
  • Premium Blue

    Votes: 2 3.6%
  • Premium Blue Extreme

    Votes: 1 1.8%
  • Delo 400

    Votes: 11 20.0%
  • Other (please specify)

    Votes: 4 7.3%

  • Total voters
    55

If Dodge and Cummins were no longer available...

Stacks or not?

I have been running Royal Purple and have been happy with it. Only thing I'm not so happy about is its availability. Yes I try to keep a few quarts in the truck but I hate being out and not being able to get some anywhere I want. I read about the Premium Blue Extreme and Rotella and some other's saying they are not full synthetic. For the guys that get the oil samples done, which oil has come out on top for you?

I'm not stuck to synthetic, Lab results will help make up my mind. You don't need to post your results, I will take your word.
 
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The poll question is very vague. What lab test where you referring to there are many many tests. I voted Amsoil ,yes I am a dealer, but they publish tests in there monthly magazine and if another oil out performs it in particular tests they show it. You left out one of the best tested in many tests of synthetic engine oils off the poll. Pennzoil has done a very good job in recent years. Another very good lube company that is rarely ever seen in publications and has a superior product is Petro Canada.
 
Amsoil

I like the cleaning habits of Amsoil. My engine stays much cleaner. I have looked at RP after its use and it is much darker, lab results show much more breakdown. I had to watch Amsoil getting tromped on with a friction test by RP. However after seeing our heavy industrial engines not being able to turn over in cold weather, and heavy sludge deposits in crankcases, I will stick with Amsoil. A all around oil for all seasons, with superior qualitys. :D
 
From a lab:



Managers and analysts at Blackstone Laboratories often do presentations regarding the fascinating world of oil analysis. Regardless of the immediate topic, the most common question we hear is, "What type of oil should I use in my car?"



Because we're an independent laboratory, we don't recommend any specific oil brands. We always recommend using an oil grade recommended for your engine by the manufacturer and a brand that fits your budget.



You can go into any mass retailer (Wal-Mart, K-Mart, Meijer, etc. ) that sells engine oil and buy a 10W/30 (or any other preferred grade) that will perform well in your engine. One of the best-kept secrets of the oil industry is that these store brands are actually the same, quality oils that are produced by the major oil companies. The only difference between these products and the major company brands is the name on the container and about 50¢ a quart.



But wait! We do actually have a preference when it comes to buying oils for our personal use engines. That preference however, has little to do with brand names.



We analyze oils from our personal use engines (right down to our lawn mowers) religiously. We tend to choose oils that do not contain additives. Additives tend to get in the way of elements we want to see in the analysis data.



For instance, many light, multi-grade oils use compounds of copper and/or sodium as oil additives. The copper additive masks brass or bronze wear from the engine. Sodium additives can mask anti-freeze contamination.



There are many types of after-market additives you can buy. Some contain unusual compounds that can cause make it difficult for our analysts who are trying to determine if your engine has a mechanical problem. One additive we know of contains a lead compound. But lead is a metal common to bearing inserts. If you're using an additive with lead in it, it is difficult to tell whether the high lead is from your additive or a problem with the bearings.



Another type of additive we often run across contains silicone (which is read as silicon by our spectrometer). Silicon is often found in the oil when a fault exists at air filtration. If we do not know there is an additive in use, it can be difficult to diagnose true problems that may be producing high silicon.



If you are interested in having your engine oil analyzed by a quality lab, you will receive a better analysis if you avoid oils and after-market additives that use elements we need to see clearly to do a thorough analysis. If you feel you truly want to use an after-market additive, please let us know about it on the information slip provided with the sample.
 
Schaeffer's 7000 & 9000 is very well thought of at bob is the oil guy.com. It is priced reasonably & gets great UOA's (used oil analysis).



Chevron Delo-400, 15X40, CI-4+ is considered an exceptional conventional oil with great lab results, also.



Joe f. (Buffalo)
 
I've been using mobil delvac 1300 for 43K miles and my oil test was real good.



http://www.mobil.com/usa-english/files/Mobil_Delvac_1300_Super_brochure.pdf#search='mobil%20delvac%201300'



An interesting thing to read.
 
Honestly if there was a crap oil, I'm pretty sure news would have spread like wildfire.



Like Fram filters. I would venture to say just about everyone on the TDR knows the past problems with these filters.



If Rotella was bad, would truck fleets use it, or Delo, or Mobile, or... you get the idea.



Oil is oil if you ask me. I use Rotella because that's what the previous owner used, and it's easy to find most any store. I can't see paying $20-25 a gallon for super ultra xyz blend when the plain jane $8 a gallon stuff works just fine.
 
If a person lives in, or regularly exposes his vehicles to extremes in climate - hot/cold - the synthetics can be beneficial over and above the Dino based stuff - otherwise, in more moderate usage and climates, the extra cost of synthetics can easily be $$$ flushed down the drain.



As far as oil analysis - the actual measure of a lube's overall effectiveness - in the moderate climate I live in, I'd put the analysis wear characteristics of the Delo 400 I use up against any other commonly available oil, Dino or synthetic.



But as one fella said up above, you're not likely to EVER have a lube related issue with any of the properly rated oils for our trucks, and specific brand preferences are far more often based upon some vague warm and fuzzy feeling than actual personally documented proof of excellence.



But warm and fuzzy is OK too... :D :D
 
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