Here I am

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Which Shock Absorbers?

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Engine Temps

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 2001 24v

Status
Not open for further replies.
Shock opinion...thanks David.

Tim:



Most here will say Rancho 9000's or Bilsteins. If you tow and want adjusability, Rancho's are the key - 9 settings from super soft to super firm.



Bilsteins are super quality, too but not adjustable for firmness.



I run my Rancho's at higher settings for towing, then way down for normal unloaded driving.



Can't say if Bilsteins wouldn't do just as fine even for those who tow - you might ask in the Towing Forums for more input on that questions.



I wouldn't try to 'save' on shocks. These trucks are heavy, even unloaded. Cheap shocks will wear out quickly - and good ones will help everything else last longer, plus help with comfort.



Besides, both Rancho's and Bilsteins are lifetime warranty - so if they break or wear out, you get new ones free. How can you beat that ? Oo.



Take Care, David B.
 
I've got Rancho 9000's on it now, and they are worn out.
Plus, I'm selling the camper and don't plan on hauling the heavy loads anymore anytime soon.

What I'm looking for now is a nice ride in a normally empty or lightly loaded truck on mostly paved roads, which unfortunately sometimes includes those paved pot-holes in West Memphis, AR.

I was looking this morning, and couldn't find my reciept for the Ranchos (Free replacements would be nice). Off hand, I can't remember if I got mine at 4-wheel Parts, Pep Boys or Western Auto (or whatever thier name was in 2001).
 
I just put a set of 4 rancho 9000 ajustable on to day went for a test drive 90 miles 30 % back paved roads and these shocks are the ticket i set the front to 5 and the backs to 4... It rides like a Lincon well almost,the factory shocks had 100,000 miles on them and wasen't leaking,but the ride now is so great... ...
 
ProspectorTim said:
I've got Rancho 9000's on it now, and they are worn out.

Plus, I'm selling the camper and don't plan on hauling the heavy loads anymore anytime soon.



What I'm looking for now is a nice ride in a normally empty or lightly loaded truck on mostly paved roads, which unfortunately sometimes includes those paved pot-holes in West Memphis, AR.



I was looking this morning, and couldn't find my reciept for the Ranchos (Free replacements would be nice). Off hand, I can't remember if I got mine at 4-wheel Parts, Pep Boys or Western Auto (or whatever thier name was in 2001).



Tim, I may have good news for you. I believe others have said the warranty for the Rancho's is so solid that they don't require a reciept - just take them to a Rancho retailer and the swap you new ones. You may wish to check with Rancho, their site probably spells out the warranty.



Also, if you could prove you owned it in '01 with any number of other receipts or records, they'd probably see it your way and hand you the new ones..... I hope this is true cause the shop I bought the Rancho's from is out of business !



Wish you success..... DB :D
 
Loved my Rancho's on my 96'. When empty I ran them at 3 all around. When towing the front was at 7, rear 9.
 
I had the Rancho 9000's on an older Toyota and they were just crap. I had each one warrantied out within 6 months due to leaking. I had the incab adjuster system and it worked nice, but the shocks were junk. I now run Les Schwab RMX monotubes and they are great. If you're close to a Les Schwab, ie west coast, check them out.
 
I looked some more today, and still can't find the receipt.

I called 4 Wheel Parts, and stopped in at an Advance Auto Parts store and neither will warranty the shocks without a reciept from their store. :(
 
I guess my experience with Rancho's is more fortunate than DNewell's, mine have been on for 50 k + rears, fronts for 40 k miles, no problems. I tow huge loads and they're holding up fine - like wcjp said : enjoy the loaded or empty ride.



Tim, contact Rancho, assure them you're the original owner that bought them - they are the ones that warranty them, ultimately.



You can't blame the auto parts stores - they're just sticking to their policy. They would apply the Rancho warranty, IF you prove you bought 'em there.



[One tip: Autozone gives a 'free lifetime warranty' on ANY shocks, so recently my Ram Van blew out the front Gabriels (my fault for buying cheap to begin with... don't get me started... I shoulda never bought a cheap shock for a heavy rig!), they gave me 100 % credit against new front Bilsteins - cool !]



I do customer service for www.PermaShield.net, so I've got experience here. In your case of no purchase proof, go to the manufacturer, not the selling store.



Now Rancho, if they doubt you, could ask for proof, but if there is manufacturing date code, and you can prove you owned the truck BEFORE that date, you are undoubtedly the 'original purchaser'.



I'd hate to see you spend the bucks if you don't have to... ...



Just my . 02 !



DB





























in this case of a lost receipt)
 
Tim, I'm watching this with interest. My Ranchos are about 8 years old. I purchased online and my printer was down at the time, so not able to print a receipt. Now they could sure use replacement.



A couple of years ago there were several post about Rancho not providing any warrenty without the receipt.



Good luck, RR
 
Maybe someone at Rancho is watching too?

Maybe they will appreciate the "free advertising" in the hyperlink in my signature that I link to from LOTS of discussion forums (except the forum that called it "advertising" and edited my signature).

Funny thing about that . . (almost) everybody lists the mods on our trucks in our signature blocks; I add hyperlinks and it gets tagged as advertising (Only on that one site so far). Maybe they didn't like that I link back to MY website? I find it real convenient that anytime I make a mod to my truck, I only need to change the signature on my webpage and the change is propagated to every post I've made on every site that has signatures. :) This week it has Rancho. Next week it might have Bilstein, or Edelbrock or who knows what.
 
I know the Other Site is a bit anal about their guidelines.



As an aside, how's the Roadmaster Active Suspension working. I looked at it a couple of years ago, but read mixed opinions. Instead to smooth things a bit, I started carrying about 500lbs. or railroad steel in the back of the bed. Works pretty good, but it's a pain when I hook up a gooseneck trailer.



Thanks, RR
 
moparguy said:
Instead to smooth things a bit, I started carrying about 500lbs. or railroad steel in the back of the bed. Works pretty good, but it's a pain when I hook up a gooseneck trailer.



Sounds like new springs would help to me. Maybe the $$$ you save on fuel would help pay for them...



I've been down the Rancho and Bilstein path... If you want it done right, get resevoir shocks all around. Fully rebuildable, revalvable, tunable, etc. I have 2" Fox Shox on the rear and 2. 5" King shocks on the front. Won't EVER go back to the monotube farse.

-JJ
 
I got the track bar off last night and took apart the Luke's Link, figuring I would rebuild it and put it back together. But it was ugly. The hole in the top end of the "cap" is wallowed out egg-shaped, and the "o-ring" is mangled. I cleaned up the parts and took a bunch of photos that I will upload shortly.

I'll see what the Luke's Link guy says about it. I'm not sure now if I want rebuild this one again (with new parts), or try something else. The current setup is NOT going to work. <O:p

I think the problem is that the Luke's Link doesn't fit my truck. It looks like the "cap" *should* fit over the shoulder on the top of the drag link, but it doesn't.
This wasn’t clear in the installation instructions, so I didn’t think it was a problem when I installed it.

<O:p
I bought the Luke's Link to fit the factory stock track bar on my '99. Unless someone can tell by the photos or the dimensions, I guess I'll have to go through all my service tickets from Dodge to see if they replaced the track bar, and if so, what part number did they use. When the truck was under warranty I had it in the shop a bunch of times for steering and braking problems, and had the "chasis dynamics" TSB performed, among other things

I know they put on a newer design of brake rotors; I wonder if they may have done the same for my track bar? I guess I better dig out all those service tickets and go through them this weekend

Anyhow, I'll fire off an email to the Lukes Link guy, and maybe follow up with a phone call. This part of the project is on hold until I hear from him. <O:p></O:p>

If the Luke's Link doesn't work out, I'm looking for a plan B (that's feedback from YOU GUYS!). <O:p

I know there are about a half dozen options, ranging from stock MOPAR replacement, Moog, 3rd gen track bar adaptation, other aftermarket parts, etc. , and I figure ALL of them work for a while. Even a stock replacement would make the truck drive MUCH better for maybe 6 months or a year

I'd like to hear about what works, from someone who has had it installed several years and maybe 50-100,000 miles and is STILL happy with their choice.

Sure, I would also like to know about the stuff that worked "really good" for a while, then failed; and what you replaced it with.
<O:p
This is my daily driver. It is not a race truck, off-road beast, or "pulling" truck; and I don't have NASA's budget, so please keep it sensible. <O:p
<O:p

Thanks<O:p




Here are the photos:

I wiped the grease off and loosely reassembled the unit for this one. I left out the mangled o-ring.

View of the top of the CAP

This is what doesn't fit. Or at least I think this is the problem.
See what I mean?
 
Last edited:
I still haven't got a reply to my email to Rancho. :(

I took the shocks off the truck. The "gas charge" is gone, the compress way too easy, and "feel funny". They do still have decent dampening on the rebound.

I took the shocks to 4-Wheel Parts and to O'Reily's, and they both agreed that these are shot. But the only way I'll get a warranty is through Rancho - or find the reciept.
I'll try calling Rancho tomorrow, since they still haven't replied to my email.


Meanwhile, I DID get a response from Luke's Link.
I got a call from Johnnie Laucus (Luke's Link) today.
He is sending me a "new & improved" replacement Luke's Link. FREE
He is sending out UPS tonight.
AWESOME!

He did clarify some of my questions about the LL.

  • The "egg-shape" is by design, to allow the ball stud enough travel when the suspension is at full droop.
  • The shoulder on the track bar is NOT supposed to fit into that opening.
  • The O-ring is just there to help keep the grease in, and does not affect the function of the LL
The new LL has a *smaller* hole with a slot for ball stud travel, instead of the egg-shaped hole. I believe he said that the new unit is smaller overall, for a cleaner looking installation and tighter fit. I'll know more about the differences when it gets here.
 
My local performance/4x4 shop recommended TrailMaster SSV over the Ranchos and I've been happy with them. I do almost exclusively on road driving and hardly load the truck down or tow anything.
 
Last edited:
Well, I've got more good news.

I called the 2 Advance Auto Parts stores that I did the most business with in Colorado Springs - and most likey to be where I bought the shocks.

They remodeled the stores and apparantly went to a new computer system, so they have my name under the old phone number, but NO pruchase history (it;s been 2 years since I moved to Tennessee). One of the managers there suggested that I talk to a manager at a local Advance Auto Parts.

I haven't been impressed with the folks at the NEAREST AAP, but I had to go to Millington today anyhow, so I stopped in at that AAP there and explained the situation the the store manager. My new shocks will be there by 10 am tomorrow.

Thanks to Paul at Advance Auto Parts in Millington, TN!!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top