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Which Valve Body should I buy and why

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It is time. I have a 6k mile round trip at 20k # combine truck and trailer weight.

I wouldn't have hesitated to do this stock with my 06 with a G56, but I am worried about the trans on my 100k mile 48RE.

I have found a good shop near me (R&R Transmission in Allegany NY) that can build me a transmission. Kevin (the owner) took the time to teach me about TCs and what I should or shouldn't do.

He has is stock good TCs that are good for 600 HP. They are all he will warranty, so I will trust his judgment and go with it.

When it came to Valve Body, he has given me the option of modifying my existing valve body, or purchasing a performance one.

The modification will be drilling out some key areas for better flow. He doesn't have any machine shop tools, so that is about as far as the modification will go. It will, however, save me some money.

The other option is a performance valve body, like an ATS or BD (or any of the other quality brands). IT will cost a little more but should perform better (so I've been told).

I asked Kevin's opinion on which performance Valve Body to buy, and why. He didn't see enough of each brand regularly enough to form a good opinion.

So, I put the question to TDR masses: Which valve body should i buy and why?

Truck is a stock 03 HO with a 48RE. I plan on building the trans to take 600HP, but doing very few mods to the truck (maybe 400 to 450 HP total with the help of a programmer and maybe FASS). I figure that combination should be very reliable.

I daily drive the truck about 10k miles a year and tow about 10k miles a year. I am adding a commander with EGT and trans temp gauge. When I put the commander in I will probably try a Quadzilla box.
 
First like any other mods, if you strengthen one part you will transfer the load to another. That said any trans mod is helpful.

I have a full transmission from Goerend and it is amazing how well it works. I went to Iowa for him to install, and learned a great deal. One would highly reccommend is a billet flex plate. The stock one is flimsey (You will not believe it) and the billet is how it should be made. All in all, if you're planning on mods, take the trans out once, do it right, and worry about something else. This trans done correctly with the right parts is amazing. Call Dave at Goerends. Great guy, unbeliveable customer service, and a wealth of information.

BTW... . every part he sells, TC, VB, Complete trans. is Dyno tested prior to shipping/install. It is right when it is shipped or it isnt shipped.

Good luck
 
if you guy does not know which valve body he likes the best and why, honestly I think you are talking to the wrong guy, a guy that builds transmissions SHOULD know this. I would call the guys at DTT, they are the only ones who have maintained a spotless reputation on this board, for years. they are not long haired wanna be's trans choice is a hot button issue around here because everyone wants to think they made the right choice, so this is mearly my opinion
 
I agree w/MrBee. Save up and do it all the way. Labor alone to r&r transmission and transfer case is high. Why not have them upgrade the internals and perhaps the flexplate?
 
With that kind of weight and that kind of HP, I would seriously consider a triple disk TC that will keep up and withstand more pressure your new VB will be providing.
 
Ugghh.

Don't design a Tranmission for 600HP, then then only put 450hp to it. It will suck! However, alot of people do it!

Now, you can build a bullet proof transmission for any HP, bullet proof for 600HP, but designed for 450HP.

A 600HP Converter in a 400HP truck will be just yucky. You won't know until you experiance the difference. .

Merrick

P. S. Goerend bros Valve Body, WHOOT!
 
if i had it all to do over again i would go with dave gorend, but i am very happy with my suncoast trans but the cost was pretty high. i can tell you that bd would be my last choice ( well i would reather cut a hole in the floor board and become fred flinstone). if you really want to know pm me. i have had 7 trannies in my truck two stock 4 bd and one suncoast. the two stock had a total of 20k. the bd trannies had a total of 7k before all were shot, and my suncoast has about 40k on it with no problems exept a leaking pan gasket when i got it.
 
Get a Transgo kit, TFOD PSK it is manual or auto and can be built for all HP motors. You can start at a low HP and upgrade the valve body as your HP increases.
Bruce
 
Anybody? Bueller?



If all you want is a good VB and don't need al the fancy lockup and control, just have him do a Transgo shift kit. They work great and will make a huge difference in trans longevity.



If you have not towed much with extra power, I wouldn't worry about 100k on the trans. If you up the power then its a consideraton as it is hard on clutches without accompanying mods.
 
Ugghh.



Don't design a Tranmission for 600HP, then then only put 450hp to it. It will suck! However, alot of people do it!



Now, you can build a bullet proof transmission for any HP, bullet proof for 600HP, but designed for 450HP.



A 600HP Converter in a 400HP truck will be just yucky. You won't know until you experiance the difference. .



Merrick



P. S. Goerend bros Valve Body, WHOOT!



Please provide more insight on what you are saying... what do you mean by suck and yucky?? Why will it suck and be yucky???



I am in the process of specing a new trans for my truck and this type of info would be very helpful for someone considering spending approx $5k to $6k on a trans that works just fine (for now)...



Thanks,

Louis
 
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Ugghh.



Don't design a Tranmission for 600HP, then then only put 450hp to it. It will suck! However, alot of people do it!



Now, you can build a bullet proof transmission for any HP, bullet proof for 600HP, but designed for 450HP.



A 600HP Converter in a 400HP truck will be just yucky. You won't know until you experiance the difference. .



Merrick



P. S. Goerend bros Valve Body, WHOOT!



Says the guy with 6 speed. My transmission can handle alot more than I give it. Just make sure you get a billet input, a GB,DTT,Suncoast or ATS valvebody and converter and put as many clutches in the drums that'll fit. Dont forget the billet servo and accumulator pistons and a solid 2nd gear band. If you plan on a big turbo get a convertor thats a little looser than their standard offerings.
 
Please provide more insight on what you are saying... what do you mean by suck and yucky?? Why will it suck and be yucky???



I am in the process of specing a new trans for my truck and this type of info would be very helpful for someone considering spending approx $5k to $6k on a trans that works just fine (for now)...



Thanks,

Louis



Theirs is a huge difference in how the trans is spec out, Why would you want a race trans for every Day driver?, depending on the make and year you can manipulate the pressure differently, TC stall/ efficiency, who would want TC that is so efficient that when you drive around in stop & go traffic your fluid temp raise over 200*.
 
Louis,

If you have a convertor built for 600 HP and only build to 450 HP, the truck will be lazy on the bottom end (taking off). Actually, it has been my experience that HP doesn't make a convertor work it is torque. I am making the assumption that a 600 HP engine makes more torque than a 450 HP engine. BTW, I drag race and have a lot of experience (made mistakes) in selecting convertors. Now I have them custom built to my specifications after building the engine. A convertor for the 600HP would feel like mush to you until you came up in RPM.
 
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