Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Which year 12v. should I buy?

[Devildog]

Recommendation by a couple of friends, I'm thinking about buy a 12 valve between 1994-1998 to build for racing and truck pulls,



1, Which would be the best year?



2, Should I buy a stick or auto trans?



3, should I buy a 2 or 4 wheel drive?



4, What should I expect to pay for the vehicle?



Thanks, Chas.

 

[Extreme1]

Hmmmm... Well, the 215 pumps are the best set up for max power. BUT if you want to drag race, you need an automatic. With that in mind, I'd look for a '96 or newer (electronically controled on all shifts) and figure on buying a 215 (or race) pump. You might as well call the power vendors like PDR and get their opinion.

 

[Devildog]

Thanks,

I was thinking about the 98 model, just before they changed to the 24v, seeing cummins may have worked alot of the bugs out ( exept for the killer dowel pin... ). I figure I'll set it up for strickly racing.

 

[rrl989]

Electronic shifting in a 47RH ? Sure about that ?



I thought their autos relied on pressure to control the shifts.



Can you explain?



Thanks, Ron

 

[Patriot Diesel]

Re: Thanks,

Originally posted by Devildog

I was thinking about the 98 model, just before they changed to the 24v, seeing cummins may have worked alot of the bugs out ( exept for the killer dowel pin... ). I figure I'll set it up for strickly racing.

I agree... 1998 12V Auto. for racing, 5-speed for pulling... 4x4 for racing or pulling...



Cheapest 98 I have seen was 12K for a hammered one and as much as the low 20's for one in cherry condition and low miles.



Depending on miles and condition I would say $14-18K would be a fair price to pay.





On a side note... I really want to buy a 2nd CTD. Mine would be a '98 12V QC LB 4x4 Auto, preferably a Sport... a very rare find !!



Good Luck in your quest...

 

[Todd T]

98 storm block is the strongest and has extra oil passages. the only way to mix racing and pulling is the get 4x4 but you could go faster in the 1/4 with a 2wd. five speed for pulling will hold better (with a very expensive clutch). again, drag racing the only way to go is the auto. you need to pick one sport and stay with it, or buy two trucks LOL



or just throw in the towel, by a PSD family/tow vehicle and go drag racing in a blown 306, auto, 100horses of racing air in a mustang notch back, like i did. how's that saying go? i've gone out to find myslef... ...

 

[Devildog]

Storm block......

I'm unfamiliar with this block, do all 98's come with the "storm block"?

 

[Devildog]

Still would like to know what a Storm Block is....

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Straight Thread O-Ring Metric for oil pressure etc fittings instead of 1/8 NPT. Block also has horizontal ribs along the sides for stiffening. Supposedly stronger, but I haven't heard of failures with the earlier block. This STORM block might even be the infamous 53 that cracks; I don't know. If the one you find has two bosses on the pass side above the oil pan rail for turbo drainback, that would be nice if you go to twins.



The brake lines and blocks are routed better on the 97 for access to the fuel filter, etc. 97 also has the desirable hydroboost brake system like 98 up. Many 97s and all 98s have painted frame instead of wax coating--cleaner to work around.

 

[Todd T]

yep, "Storm" refers to the tappings. the encore block is the older (97-)12V. the Storm block is basically the 24V block moving forward. sound/strength ribbing, full skirting, extra boss for oiling and so on. I believe they also had the return oil coming back to the pump instead of the pan like the 24V's have?



as usual, Joe knows his stuff.

 

[Evan A. Beck]

I work on a LOT of trucks, and I think the 96-97 5-speed is the best of the 12V rigs. Most of the 98 rigs I work on all have some sort of weird problem. Seen a couple with busted gear cases, half a dozen or so that needed injection pump rebuilds, the list goes on and on... See plenty of electrical problems too. A lot of guys tell me the 98 12V is like the "white whale" of Dodge trucks, but to me, there's nothing special about it... Plus, I think the 98+ interior is a little too 'refined' for a 12V-powered truck. The 12V is a little rough around the edges, and the old interior goes great with it!



One more thing, most of the 98 12V trucks I have seen for sale are always overpriced... Watch out for this. The Blue Book value has NOTHING to do with how 'rare' someone thinks the truck is.



So my recommendation, get a 96-97 215 motor.

 

[rrl989]

As stated by Evan ... ... ... ... ... "Plus, I think the 98+ interior is a little too 'refined' for a 12V-powered truck"... ... ... .....



My interior does not really know what CTD she has, and besides

I think the 98 interior makes the truck go faster... ...



Ron

 

[TPCDrafting]

I'd think you would have better luck finding a '97- 12v than a '98. I know a few that have looked really hard to find one. If your planning on making a race truck or pulling truck anyway, it's likely not worth the search for a '98 and it's refinements that make it a nice daily driver. There is also that 53 block problem to look out for, which from what I've read here is more likely to give problems in heavily bombed hard pulling situations. I didn't do as much homework nor did I know of the TDR when I bought mine and didn't know it was a rare setup.

Good luck in your search.

 

[rdrose]

trucks

devildog,talk to you on the phone the other day about some work you would like to do on your truck. if you want to drag and truck pull go with a 97 5-spd. the auto might be faster but i think someone is coming out with a short throw shifter for the 5-spd and with that you can go pretty good. i have drag raced since i was in high school at moroso and i've also driven a super modified pull truck with over 600 inches of alcohol ingesting bowtie. for the rush i like the pull truck because of the pure brute force involved,don't get me wrong drag racing is awesome and the smell of cam 2 and burnt rubber.

robert

 

[Patriot Diesel]

'98 12V...quite a few...actually

Originally posted by tpcdrafting

I'd think you would have better luck finding a '97- 12v than a '98. I know a few that have looked really hard to find one. If your planning on making a race truck or pulling truck anyway, it's likely not worth the search for a '98 and it's refinements that make it a nice daily driver. There is also that 53 block problem to look out for, which from what I've read here is more likely to give problems in heavily bombed hard pulling situations. I didn't do as much homework nor did I know of the TDR when I bought mine and didn't know it was a rare setup.

Good luck in your search.

I cruise Ebay on a daily basis looking for '98 12V's. I can tell you that I have seen at least a dozen in the last month or so. Unfortuately several of them have been 2WD. I need 4WD. I am still in the "browsing" stage and may not be ready for a 12V for another year or two. But... they are out there...



It seems that there are an aweful lot of trucks that show up in Texas. That is fine with me. I would fly down and drive the truck back.



Good Luck in your search...

 

[Devildog]

Thanks Guys, this is just the kind of info I need.

rrose,



Joe Donnelly put the bug in my head (thanks Joe ) and Bill drove it in a little deeper. I'm still going to get the DD Cam for my 2000, any probably going to stop there with the mods there and find a 12v for the track. I appreciate the offer to help with the Cam install, I'm going to take you up on your offer I have a 36' sport fishing machine we can terrorize the gulf stream, I love to see a double header sailfish catch dancing across the surface it's exciting to be apart of.



Chas.

 

[tgrfan2]

I don't think you can go wrong with any 12V as long as it has been well maintained. I bought my 95 from a wholesaler for $9500 at 112k. I have only spent money on normal repairs, TST, air bags, and rear sway bar. To me the transmission is the weak link. It is hard to beat the 98 simply for the quad cab since we became grandparents. I have had more trouble with it though. The fuel gauge is acting up and the rear end was trashed due to the left carrier bearing race spinning. I looked for this truck for six months and traveled 400 miles to buy it from a VW dealer! He kept a few super clean trucks on his lot. I paid $21k for it two years ago with 45k on it. I could have bought a used Y2K for about the same money, but I drive one of those every day at work. It is a good truck, but the electronics scare me a little.

 

[rdrose]

i'm game, prior to the cam install should take it in to town on dixie hwy. there is a dyno there and i know bill would love to take his truck up there and if the cam works really good i bet bill will get one. you guys are power junkies. the dyno is 60. 00 for three pulls.





robert

 

[Devildog]

Thanks, Robert.

I had no idea that there was a dyno in town, I was going to make arrangements to run down to Miami. Can you give me the Address of the one in town, or call me with the details. Maybe us three can meet there for a little fun. .

 

[C. Harlan]

98.4 QC, with a 5600 Conversion is the best way to go!

I love my 8100 lb smoke generator!!!!! The interior is much better, and refined!!!



-Chris-