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White Knuckle Offroad Rock Sliders for Longbed

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Results of a Thermal Dispersant on an AC condenser

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The first time the rear wheel well liner has been removed. She is still like new underneath!

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This is a "before pic of the rearend". I have removed the Bilsteins and needlescaled the entire rear axle, leafsprings,and frame rails.I will post
another after I repaint with POR 15 and attach new Bilstein 5100"s

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Another before pic. I will post a new one after I install new EBC rotors and painted rebuilt calipers along with EBC stainless/kevlar brake lines. You can see the
original condition of the leaf spring and rear suspension in general. This will be my 3rd project with POR 15 and I have learned from my mistakes( primarily the 1st project) If you follow all of
the steps properly- you will be happy with the results. Hints: 1) Remove all loose scale. Either needle scale, wire brush, scotch brite, sand, etc... 2) after rinsing degreaser- make sure you get
rid of ALL water with compressed air. POR 15 paint and water do NOT co-habitate! 3) use several coats for best results. You may be tempted to stop after 1 or 2 coats because it looks so much
better... Stopping at 1 will last a year? Stopping at 2 is the bare minimum. You just invested a lot of time and money- why sell yourself short? 3 coats minimum.

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No emergency brake brake pedal on a manual transmission. What a pain! Will be nice to be able to run the truck in neutral and get out to do something.
These are Hybrid Audio Technologies Stage VI Legatia Pro LE 4's. THey range from 92 Htz to 18Khtz. Beyond the range of human hearing-thus, not requiring tweeters.

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I had this professionally done. These are 8 inch Hybrid Audio SE's. Notice my door lock/window controller is not glued down yet.I am not yet
happy with the mid-bass performance.I currently have deflex pads behind the speaks. I may remove them and fab some enclosures. I should have more punch at 300 watts per
channel.These are also wide band speakers- 40 Htz- 3.8 Khtz.

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When I removed the interior I also took out the headliner board and re-covered it in silver suede to match the factory seat inserts.(laramie leather) Sound deadend and closed-cell foamed the roof too. No buzz and very quiet! This is also not your father's center console... It is a JL Audio Stealthbox. 13.5 inch
subwoofer powered by a JL Audio HD750 amp.

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Forgot to add.. these are my new rebuilt(NAPA) rear brake calipers. I painted them silver with Duplicolor silver caliper paint(brush on) to go
with my black/silver theme. I will leave the brackets with the black coating they got from NAPA. It will be another 5-6 weeks before I get a chance to install my White Knuckle
Off Road Rock Sliders. I will post some more pics then. I can't wait til I get them on my truck!

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I couldn't imagine no parking brake with a manual trans, there isn't a speaker in the world that seems worth that.
 
I agree. I was in the middle of my install when a job opportunity opened up sooner than expected. Significant pay and benefits increase. At the time my interior was still all over my
garage.I was in the midst of changing my interior color. Dingy charcoal grey carpet to black- Cream headliner to silver suede- beige interior trim pieces to black etc.. I had to hurry up
and reassemble it so I could pull up stakes and move 2000 mi to ID.
With my particular install, the kick panel area was the best location for the mid range and high range frequencies. The more mechanically correct you can do an install, the less complex
the tuning of the system becomes. The pathlengths from the kicks to my ears are closer to equal here than if I built enclosures at the base of my A-pillars. (not to mention,that is already a
blind spot on a Dodge) This also eliminates a lot of reflections from the windshield. All of which lessens the need to adjust time-alignment and equalization to compensate for an inferior
speaker placement location. The best speaker in the world, if installed incorrectly will sound like crap. Also-the higher the frequencies-the more directional the signal becomes,as well as more
prone to reflections. You'll notice I also eliminated the floor console to have a clear path to/from the passenger side kick panel. Sucks losing those cup holders as well:)
 
It will be just a few more weeks b4 I install the sliders. Should not require more than a pair of floor jacks, an impact wrench, (followed by a torque wrench) , and a tape measure.
I made it thru the house for a day and installed my MBRP cat-back 4 inch in T-409 stainless. It only took me about 40 minutes to put it on with hand tools. I had already cut off
my old one a couple weeks ago. I think MBRP makes a great product- sounds good and it is not too loud. I hope to have all the painting and brake work finished during my next
time off because my Arctic Fox trailer should be delivered by early summer.
 
My rock sliders were sent out for powder coat and should be back at the White Knuckle shop the middle of next week for shipping. I should be able to post pictures in 2 weeks.
 
Got my receipt today- should be with the shipping company now. Hopefully I get them next week.Will be home for a week starting mid-week. Commercial shipping rate to ID was $170
 
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I took a few pics while taking these to the shop where
I will install them in the next couple days. They were packed extremely well. No chance of the powder coat getting dinged during shipping. Will take more pics in the next couple days while installing.

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Interested since the chrome is peeling off of the crappy nerf bars I bought from dealer in '09.

I have been kicking around the idea of Rinolining them, but I'm not so sure now :)
 
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Hey- I figured out how to rotate pictures. This is the mounting hardware that comes
attached to each slider. Everything is labeled for ease of install. Notice backing plate # 2 has top marked. Unmarked piece is the 1/8" shim that goes between outer frame side and 3rd mounting
plate.

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I used 2 floorjacks instead of stands. I installed by myself and tried the stands- floorjacks were much easier. This was the passenger side ( the side I did first)
Instead of unwrapping everything like I did here- Just expose the 2 ends and leave everything else til you get all the hardware on and are ready to level and do final tighten. Exposing the ends
will allow you to measure from each tip to the beginning of the wheel well. I got about 3" on the fronts. This should allow me to install fender flares later.

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