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White Smoke, No Power, Post Rebuild

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Drive shaft output plug

Good source for transmission parts and advice?

Another food for thought, you didn't over tighten a injector wire and crack the solenoid.?
one way to see if you have a bad or sticking injector is take one wire off at a time from each injector, see if the engine runs differently. i did this and found i had a bad injector that would work sometimes.

I was very deliberate, and cautious when I connected the fuel injectors. I was warned (in TDR) early on in the engine rebuild project thread not to over tighten the injector connectors. That being said, earlier in this thread Topzide and Ozy both identified a good way to check the injector wires. I'll troubleshoot, I just haven't gotten back to it yet. Once I can get back to the garage I'll be checking the wires.
I think I got a little too happy when I got my hands on the Soulus, thought that was the silver bullet...gonna fix everything antidote. Instead, it was just another scene in my epic novella.
Just like I've gained knowledge through this forum, I'm hoping others can learn from these threads as well.

Keep the suggestions coming, I appreciate all your inputs.
 
@Dysfunctional Vet , I personally would just wait until the injector block-off tool arrives. All the above-mentioned problems could be possible, but I don't think are likely because of one symptom you have mentioned - the harsh timing knock you are getting under power. To me, that strongly indicates a leaking injector for the reasons I mentioned in a previous post. In my opinion the other possible problems could cause a miss, smoke, and other symptoms, but not likely a timing knock.

Have you pulled the oil dipstick and checked for fuel dilution in the engine oil?

If you have a leaking injector, you do not want to run this engine any more than necessary to diagnose your problem. This is why I would not perform any other tests until I did the injector block-off test. The fuel block-off test is crude, simple, and very informative. You need to know whether or not you have a leaking injector before continuing with other tests.

Just my 2 cents.

- John
 
One more question, and you might don't like it.
Have you had all the openings of CP3, Rail tube and injector lines covered instantly at disassemble. And have you rinsed them thoroughly before assembly with clean Diesel or a cleaning agent and dried with pressured air to get them cleaner then clean on the inside?

Sure that's a little late now, but after the fuel filter one needs to work like a surgeon in OP. Perfectly clean. The smallest amount of debris left in the system can and will ruin a brand new injector.
 
One more question, and you might don't like it.
Have you had all the openings of CP3, Rail tube and injector lines covered instantly at disassemble. And have you rinsed them thoroughly before assembly with clean Diesel or a cleaning agent and dried with pressured air to get them cleaner then clean on the inside?

Sure that's a little late now, but after the fuel filter one needs to work like a surgeon in OP. Perfectly clean. The smallest amount of debris left in the system can and will ruin a brand new injector.
I will admit I could've kept the pump covered more, but I did try to keep it under a cover while rebuilding the engine.
 
So I was unsuccessful in figuring it out.

I capped each cylinder. No difference in smoke or idle on 1, 2, 3 and 6. I couldn't get the truck to start and idle on 4 and 5.

I was successful in breaking my plastic dipstick T-handle as I leaned into the engine bay to cap each cylinder. I was also succesfull in losing a 10mm 1/4 drive socket.
That's called Friday at my garage.
 
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How does it run when you disconnect the FCA, aka. doin a max rail pressure test?

Some videos would maybe help to diagnose the problem. You can easily upload them to YouTube and link em.
Was I supposed to disconnect the fuel rail electrical connector when I capped off each cylinder? Because I didn't do that.
 
No the FCA is the 3 prong connector to the CP3. If that is disconnected the pump maxes out pressure. It can be done with a decent scanner, like the cylinder selective shout down. Or by manually unplugging it.
I'd like to know how it smokes, behaves, with more rail pressure.

And while you are in there, please clock the CP3. It's no big deal.
 
No the FCA is the 3 prong connector to the CP3. If that is disconnected the pump maxes out pressure. It can be done with a decent scanner, like the cylinder selective shout down. Or by manually unplugging it.
I'd like to know how it smokes, behaves, with more rail pressure.

And while you are in there, please clock the CP3. It's no big deal.
So I disconnected the wire connector to the CP3 pump while the truck was idling. The truck immediately lowered RPM and started knocking badly. Smoked even more.
Does that point toward anything?
 
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