Archived white smoke problem update.

[ranger71]

Where are you located north, South or in the middle some Where? Is the ctd in side or out side?

I'm in central Texas, truck is outside year round but it never really gets cold here if that's what you were thinking. I think my injector pump might've slipped, my lift pressure is high if anything at 38psi, my injectors are squeaky clean and none seem to affect the operation of the motor more or less if I crack the line open, it starts super easy, doesn't misfire or bog down, just makes all the regular noises with a ton of white smoke, I read that retarded injection timing will not give the fuel enough time to burn. Makes sense to me anyway but I'm pretty new to this, had the truck 17 years and it always just ran when I turned the key. Pretty amazing machine.

 

[ranger71]

It's easy to find TDC and you don't need the cam timing pin or a dial indicator. Pull off all the valve covers. Rotate the engine in it's direction of rotation watching the #6 rockers. When the exhaust valve closes and the intake starts to open the (valve overlap) #1 is at compression TDC. Adjust the valves as outlined in the FSM, then rotate the engine one full turn. #1 will be at valve overlap and you can adjust the other 6 valve's lash.

You really need to remove the injector pump and fix the tappet cover leak. Until that happens you will be chasing your tail.

You're right and a genius too. I'll use that method to do the valves and I think I'm finally confident enough to tackle the pump removal and re-timing, YouTube helped with that one. I've had the gasket for the tapper cover almost two years after being told it would be $1000 to install it, knowing what I know now that seems a little high don't you think? Fixing that and the piece of mind it'll give me will be like six weeks vacation! Thanks mate, truly appreciate your time and help with this!!

 

[GAmes]

The $1000 is shop time. It is an all day sucker, plus some. Be aware the p-pump weighs 44 lbs so lifting it out can be tricky. Don't start until you have a factory service manual in your possession. Also, in case the FSM doesn't spell it out, be at #1 compression TDC with the pump pin aligned before you turn a wrench. That will make pin timing a lot easier when you put it back together.

 

[ranger71]

Valves are adjusted using your technique, weren’t too far off surprisingly but a couple definitely required attention. Managed to break the handle off the dowel pin so now I’m going to pin the pump and see what the timing looks like in general. If it’s way off I’ll think about removing the pump, detaching the pin housing and setting the cam perfectly in the hole before reassembly. Sound about right?

 

[GAmes]

I'll bet you didn't remove the c clip that holds the cam timing pin in place. Since you have to remove the pump to replace the gasket it would be a perfect time to replace the pin and adjust the housing if necessary. The procedure is in the FSM.

 

[ranger71]

So I think I've figured it out finally. For whatever reason I decided to check the coolant level about half an hour ago, I checked it earlier and it looked fine, almost full back then. Now it's halfway down the radiator and there's a little film of tiny bubbles on the surface. I haven't noticed any external leaks so reckon its seeping into a cylinder and getting sent out the exhaust. I just watched a first gen with a blown gasket on youtube and it looks identical and sounds identical to mine, just his must be a little worse as his motor is vibrating more than mine. I got as far as pinning the pump and the flag in the pump was within a degree or so of where it was supposed to be so no slipped timing. I think it must've blown right as I got back home that night which is why I didn't notice anything on the drive and why the coolant level was still high. I'd do more testing but feel pretty good about this deduction, I'll still pull the pump and fix the cover gasket but I'll just have to pull the head while I'm at it, sounds like it ain't too big a deal, just tricky to pull the rear pushrods because of the cowl. Finally getting somewhere with this.

 

[GAmes]

The cowl has holes in it for pushrod removal. They have rubber plugs in them. The good news I can offer is that with the head off you don't need to pull the IP to replace the tappet cover gasket.

 

[ranger71]

Thanks for the tips, I think I know the plugs you’re talking about and leaving the pump alone is great news even though I’m not afraid of it any more, now if only I had pulled that circlip before I busted that timing pin...

 

[ranger71]

Ok, so I have my gasket set and am waiting on head bolts to get here, supposed to arrive today but now they say it'll be tomorrow. Yesterday I pulled all the injectors again (much easier this time around) and took them to Austin Fuel Injection to have them tested. They were popping a little low, 220-230 instead of 250 but otherwise looked good with great atomization. I replaced them and today I decided to check the pump timing. As I can't use the timing pin to find TDC I used a dial indicator on the number one exhaust valve with it dropped both sides of TDC and marked the dampener. With the number one piston perfectly at TDC the pump is perfectly timed and the slotted plunger pin slides right into place. So no slipped timing.... That would be too easy I guess. So here's where I'm at. Still tons of white smoke or vapor from the exhaust. THere's one more weird thing I noticed. With the motor off the coolant level is at the top of the radiator, running it drops down about halfway and the surface is covered in bubbles. I cannot detect any oil emulsion in the radiator and when I shut the motor down the level rises back up to full. Any ideas what would cause this? I'm at a loss but if there's anything I should check before pulling the head please let me know, I really don't trust my local diesel shop here in Dripping after reading their online reviews.

 

[MGreer]

It sounds to me like you have a blown head gasket or a cracked head. Another member recently rebuilt his engine with around 800k miles on the clock and he had to replace the head due to worn out. It makes me wonder if these heads need some attention around 500k.
It's been about 20 years since I've rebuilt an engine. We would send the head to the machine shop and have them checked for cracks. Back then I believe the process was called magnaflux. There might be a newer process with a different name, somebody on here working on them might chime in.
If the gasket doesn't show a definite break I would have the head checked. Hope this helps and keep us posted on the repair.

 

[petersonj]

THere's one more weird thing I noticed. With the motor off the coolant level is at the top of the radiator, running it drops down about halfway and the surface is covered in bubbles. I cannot detect any oil emulsion in the radiator and when I shut the motor down the level rises back up to full. Any ideas what would cause this? I'm at a loss but if there's anything I should check before pulling the head please let me know

You didn't say if this is occurring with a cold engine that has not reached operating temperature or if it is occurring with a warm engine after the thermostat has opened.


I would suspect (since a lot of coolant is passing through the engine as evidenced by the exhaust) that the engine block and radiator cannot ever be full of coolant. While the engine is running and warming up, air that is trapped in the block would compress which would allow for the coolant level to drop in the radiator. When the engine is shut off, the coolant level would rise in the radiator as the air decompresses.

Just a thought.

- John

 

[ranger71]

Hi John,
This is happening with a cold engine. I’ve had it idle and let it warm up but I wouldn’t say it’s ever gotten to operating temperature. The smoke problem is so severe it literally blankets the whole property so I don’t run it more than a few minutes after working on it. This problem just started out of the blue, no history of this in the 17 years I’ve driven the truck. I think you’re probably right about the coolant level. Running the water pump will compress the air in the coolant in the system and the radiator level will drop and just sitting the trapped air will expand and push fluid back into the radiator filling it back up. I have a feeling I have a gasket failure between a combustion chamber and the water jacket or a crack linking the same. This way I get low cylinder pressure and unburned fuel (the white smoke) and possibly some burned coolant (more white smoke) and I also get air pushed into the water jacket when it’s running which causes the bubbles on the surface of the coolant in the radiator. Sound about right? I really hope it’s not a cracked head but thanks for the advice, if I can’t find a gasket failure I’ll have the head checked for sure.

 

[B.G. Smith]

If air is trapped in the block as Petersonj suggests above that might indicate that the thermostat is not opening. That would not account for the white smoke but I would certainly check the TS while you are in the repair mode. bg

 

[ranger71]

Thanks bg, I appreciate the advice. I think you’re right and will replace it while I’m in there. Thanks. Robert.

 

[GAmes]

I won't even try to guess on the physics of you coolant rise and fall, but it certainly isn't normal. After 800k miles the only issue I had with my head was a broken exhaust manifold bolt because the manifold had shrunk enough to not allow the bolt to exit freely. I strongly recommend you upgrade your manifold while you are doing the repair. I have a 3 piece, but if it had been available I'd much rather have a one piece stainless.

 

[ranger71]

Thanks for the info man. Those guys at Austin Injection are pretty great. When I pull my head tomorrow I’m going to try and leave as much attached as I can, if I had the funds I’d upgrade a bunch of stuff but in my situation with my daughter at Baylor I’m kinda ina bind. Just need to get mobile again. I think I’ve got a head gasket that’s bridges between cylinders but I won’t know for sure until it’s off. Sucks to be me right about now.

 

[GAmes]

If you aren't aware, you need to remove the injectors before putting the head on a workbench. The tips protrude below the deck and will be damaged if left installed.

 

[ranger71]

Thanks for the tip, no pun intended. I wasn't going to pull them out again but now I will, it only takes a second now that they've been in and out a couple times and anti-seized. Any thoughts on pulling the head with the manifold and turbo attached? I know it's heavy by itself but I think I can swing it, tried loosening up the manifold bolts an hour ago and they're looking a whole lot like they'd prefer to break than come out gracefully, last thing I need right now is to be drilling out sheared bolts!

 

[GAmes]

By itself the head weighs 140 pounds, so there aren't many who can lift one, especially since it is in front of you and has to be maneuvered out. With an engine hoist it can be done, manifold, turbo and all. Don't forget to disconnect the engine temp sensor wire. It is at the rear of the head behind the intake manifold. Not easy to reach and real easy to break.

 

[ranger71]

Good to know, I was jus about to search for that info and I didn’t know about that sensor, think mine is dead as the gauge quit working a week or two ago. I have an aftermarket bumper with a receiver hitch on it that I use to mount a rack for carrying 20’ lengths of steel, figured I’d fab up a mount for a chain hoist and hopefully swing it all clear, might take some photos if it works as I know a lot of guys have the same setup. This is gonna suck, I can already tell.