Archived white smoke problem update.

[ranger71]

Took everything out last night by myself, turbo, manifold, head all in one. Not the easiest task but got it with a hoist and some blue smoke of my own! I disconnected the sensor at the back, that thing really is hidden! Broke it later on the floor :0( Anyway, good news, found the number three cylinder to be, let’s just say kinda crunchy. White deposits on the valves on top of a bunch of carbon. Also discovered a couple rusty head bolts, one still wet and not from oil so I think my gasket failed, it sure didn’t look all that happy. Now it’s out I’ve got the turbo and manifold off so assembly ought to be simpler. Thanks very much for all the help and advice, it was invaluable to say the least. I’m going to keep cleaning the surfaces and hopefully pull all the valves if my spring compressor works. Can you believe there is still factory cross hatching clearly visible in the cylinders?! Looking forward to wrapping up and getting back to work. Thanks again!!

 

[GAmes]

Be sure to check for flatness using a machinist straight edge. IIRC the variance max is .010. It isn't surprising you have cross hatch. My oil burning 800,000 mile original engine still had cross hatch. The wear is at the bottom of the cylinders, not the part you can easily see.

 

[ranger71]

The slimmest feeler gauge I had was five though and it wouldn’t pass. It all goes back together tomorrow come hell or high water.

 

[GAmes]

Here's a tip for reassembly to keep from damaging the new gasket. When the head is about an inch above the block thread two of the long head bolts into the front and rear holes next to the exhaust side. They will act as dowels and force the head to drop straight down.

 

[ranger71]

Here's a tip for reassembly to keep from damaging the new gasket. When the head is about an inch above the block thread two of the long head bolts into the front and rear holes next to the exhaust side. They will act as dowels and force the head to drop straight down.

Thanks mate, I did that and the head installed straight down. Now I have another problem, I loosened all the valve adjusters and began torquing the head down, I didn’t get far as I noticed a couple of the rockers were getting tight, I’ve pulled the pedastals and checked the rods are seated in the tappers correctly, still no luck. Could the valves have worn in the seats to raise them up this far?

 

[GAmes]

I doubt it. Some of the rockers have to be way loose while torquing the head bolts.

 

[ranger71]

Please tell me it’s natural that a couple will be tight, not really depressing the valve but not rocking like the others as the tappets on a couple are just riding high on the cam. I took a straight edge and placed it across the valve spring pairs and none are noticeably different, all flat and parallel to each other, not one higher than the other.

 

[ranger71]

Ten out of twelve are flopping loose, #2 exhaust and number five intake, earlier it was #3 exhaust then I rotated the motor a bit to test my theory. I think it must be normal for a couple to be close, I kept everything numbered and labeled and I can feel the rods sucking in the tappets so I know that everything is where it goes and came from. I bet if I torque it down and adjust the valves I’ll get the play back?

 

[ranger71]

Sorry to bug you but you know what you’re talking about and I need this together tonight

 

[GAmes]

As long as you insured the pushrods are centered in the lifters you should be good.

 

[ranger71]

Just wanted to say a huge thank you to all the members of the community who gave encouragement and advice to a relative newcomer to diesel mechanics. The problem was diagnosed with your help and completed with your advice. New head gasket, new thermostat and a whole lot of cleaning and now it’s running like new. No smoke, warms up quickly, idles without any misses. Priceless. Thanks a bunch everyone!!!

 

[ranger71]

Hey bud, all good, just freaked out a little after wrenching about thirty hours. Just finished up with only two tiny nylock nuts left over. Scratched my head for a bit then remembered a matching flat washer the same size and realized they went to the studs on the side cover that hold on the insulation that was all oil soaked and cracked. I can live with that!! Thanks individually for all your advice, hearing her start and seeing the problem resolved was an epic feeling, I’ve worked on many things but never got this personal with a diesel before. I’d start nodding but the valves are pretty old so maybe some other time, just going to enjoy the fruits of my labor until I get my 383 into my C10 and can take the time to really bring the old girl up to spec. Happy Holidays mate!!

 

[deeselfitter]

Great stuff Ranger.....i was sandbagging this thread from the start and hoping all would work out......sorry i never added any help,but i am a new diesel mechanic also
cheers

 

[GAmes]

Good deal. There is a learning curve for sure and you have made the ascension.