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White Smoke

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Warm instrument cluster...

Help- Rad Hose

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Like I posted before I got a reman pump placed on my 1st Gen, but I still have white smoke when in gear and foot on brake (under load). Do I still have a timing issue or is this an injector issue? I only really noticed the smoke at night in the headlights of cars behind me. Any ideas?



Scott
 
The only time I see smoke out of my truck is at night in other vehicles headlights too. My truck just doesn't smoke enough to see without back lighting. It doesn't sound like you have a problem to me :confused:

Travis. .
 
White smoke is most generally associated with a cold engine. Even then I don't always see it. I'd have to think that if the engine doesn't st st st stumble and runs well, when warned up I'm talk'n, then it would be pretty tough to differentiate, at night, between white and gray haze/smoke.



I'd hammer down.



What did you set the timing to? Start right up ok, after setting overnight?



-S
 
The smoke is with a warm engine. No stumble or hesitation, starts on first crank even after sitting overnight and cold enough for the grid heaters to kick on.



I don't know what the timing is set at, "factory" is what they told me it was set at when bench tested. I asked about timing and they said they could time it to the injectors which probably have ware on them. Replacement of the injectors (which I told them I wanted to upgrade) could likely solve the problem. Their conclusion was it would be a waste of my money to time the pump according to worn parts that once replaced could require retiming and more money spent. Sounded logical to me, but I just don't really know...



Scott
 
Retiming and more money spent... ... ... ... ...



Make or buy the pump tool wrench and set the timing when,where,how you want.



-S
 
The "waste of money" thing is really not a good choice. You can adjust your timing in about 20 minutes once you have the goofy wrench to reach the pump bolts.

I can't remember for sure, but I think your model year was timed at 1. 35mm... some were 1. 4mm but as I said I can't recall the specifics on that one. .

Either way your "factory" timing is more than the later model 1st gens... . mine for example is supposed to be set to 1. 25mm

I still haven't found a chart or formula for determining the relationship between mm and degree's.....

We normally set the timing on trucks that come into the shop to about 15. 5 degrees to 17 degrees advance.

This is in the optimal range for our pumps and is really needed when you upgrade your injectors.

The "performance" injectors usually have a higher pop off pressure so you need to start the injection cycle sooner to achieve the release pressure at the correct time of the rotation cycle.



Another thing we've found is that it's pretty hard to exceed the "safe" zone on these pumps due to the length of the slotted bolt hole. It will allow only so much rotation of the pump and then that's it.

You have to do other things to go beyond that relatively "safe" max value.



pb... .
 
Bob - My timing appears to be at the "stock" setting (has a mark on the timing cover, but nothing on the pump:confused:... maybe the pump was replaced at some point? The truck had 47k miles when I bought it, but I think there was a recall related to the IP - maybe it was replaced???).



I've been toying with the idea of increasing the timing some, but since reliability is my primary concern I don't want to go too far. So, without having a "match mark" between the pump and cover, is it safe to do the 1/8" method?



I'm taking a trip to Oregon (~3500 miles round trip) in April, so I don't want to have any problems along the way. I've been waiting until the $$$ situation lets me take it to the local diesel shop to have the timing set accurately, but if I can do it myself and save some bucks that will certainly help... gotta save some money for some Jeep mods. :D
 
Personally Dan, I wouldn't be overly worried using the 1/8" method. You should see better throttle response, slightly less smoke, maybe a tad of mileage improvement too. If you went/could go too high you'd hear the difference... . it would start to sound like the old Mercedes did... a hard distictive "rattle" sound.

Another thing that will tell you if your pump timing is set higher when you make the tweak is the way it stops when you shut it off. Instead of the engine doing what I call "the wet dog shake" it will pretty much just plain stop almost instantly... relatively speaking.

You can also raise the idle to about 1200 - 1500 RPM, hold it there for a few seconds, blip the throttle up a good shot then just release the throttle right away... the quicker it drops back to normal idle value the higher the pump timing... at least that's what I've observed anyway... . :D:D

There was a recall on some of the earlier IP's due to a potential failure internally that would result in a runaway pump condition.

The VIN number will tell you if your pump was one that was included in the recall.

My brother's 92 was one that needed to be replaced.



It's kind of ironic in a way... we are pushing these pumps so hard now that runaway is a possibility and we still don't "ease up" for the most part.
 
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Thanks for the info guys, made it to El Paso from San Antonio and the truck ran good. MPG are up, I will have to try the tricks for timing adjustment, will be back I'm sure for guidance. Anybody have a pick of the wrench needed or one somebody has made?



Scott
 
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