Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) White smokey starts

[CarlSnyder]

I have a '98 Dodge 2500. Recently my Dodge has been hard starting. When it does start it is billowing white smoke and idling rough. This condition lasts for 4-5 minutes and then it runs like normal. Any thoughts out there?

 

[Forrest Nearing]

is it cold in your neck of the woods? grid heaters not working?

 

[CarlSnyder]

It does get cold here and that is when I really notice it. I'll have to check into the grid heaters. It was funny that I was reading one of the threads on grid fires! Now I'm really interested in getting this one solved. I'm not as familiar with cummins diesal maintenance. First bit of problem this truck has given me.

 

[Jdimig]

your grid heater is most likely fine. you can tell by watching your ammeter when you start the truck up. the grid heater draws alot of amperage, and is shown by the gauge when the grid heater cycles. if it's not doing that, then you may have a problem. you stated that you have a 98' truck. is it a 12v or 24v? if it is a 12v then your fuel pump timing may need to be bumped up a bit. this advanced timing will help alot with cold weather starting, as well as for power, in the upper rpm's.



wes

 

[tURBOdIEZEl]

i get a slight white haze for not even a mili-second after i start up. now on the other hand if i turn the ole' girl over, and give the smoke petal some hell... . i get alot more smoke

 

[Forrest Nearing]

he said it just started happening and once it warms up it runs fine... doesn't sound like slipped timing or it'd be sluggish once it warmed up.



Forrest

 

[krs]

Try cleaning your fuel prefilter, and change the o-ring that's above the fuel heater.

 

[CarlSnyder]

Thanks for the feedback. I'll pull my coveralls on and try your suggestions out. I read the manual last night and it told me how to check the heater grid out amp draw and ohmeter. I guess it could be the relay too and / or the prefilter. BTW it's a 12V auto.

 

[Lsfarm]

Welcome

Hi Carl, welcome to the TDR. If you would go to the 'buttons' at the top of the page and hit 'User Control Panel' and fill in a signature, we will know where you are and what your truck is. This will help us help you faster and better.



Most important item for your truck: Have you done a KDP fix yet??? Read the FAQ's at the top of the 12v forums for more info. This is a priority item!!!



As for the white smoke, it is common during a cool or cold start, as long as it goes away in a few minutes it is normal with stock timing. The reason some trucks don't smoke and some do is that some trucks need some combustion heat to expand the piston some to get the rings to seat better and have better compression. Once the heat and compression are up then all the diesel fuel is burnt , eliminating the white smoke.



If the timing is advanced a few degrees ahead of stock then the fuel is in the combustion chamber longer and has more time to burn more completely in the cold cylinder, reducing the smoke. Some advanced timing also helps fuel mileage, throttle response and upper rpm horsepower.



I hope this helps. Greg L. The Noise Nazi

 

[rrl989]

I noticed the same unusual increase of white smoke at startup, and the truck runs a bit crappy for little bit, enough for me to investigate my grid heaters also, and the weather is warming up now!! I wonder if the fuel quality has changed in my area ? I also ran out of my perf. formula additive at about the same time, so I attributed the heavy white smoke to that. I'll find out soon enough.



Ron

 

[CarlSnyder]

Originally posted by Lsfarm

Hi Carl, welcome to the TDR. If you would go to the 'buttons' at the top of the page and hit 'User Control Panel' and fill in a signature, we will know where you are and what your truck is. This will help us help you faster and better.



Most important item for your truck: Have you done a KDP fix yet??? Read the FAQ's at the top of the 12v forums for more info. This is a priority item!!!



As for the white smoke, it is common during a cool or cold start, as long as it goes away in a few minutes it is normal with stock timing. The reason some trucks don't smoke and some do is that some trucks need some combustion heat to expand the piston some to get the rings to seat better and have better compression. Once the heat and compression are up then all the diesel fuel is burnt , eliminating the white smoke.



If the timing is advanced a few degrees ahead of stock then the fuel is in the combustion chamber longer and has more time to burn more completely in the cold cylinder, reducing the smoke. Some advanced timing also helps fuel mileage, throttle response and upper rpm horsepower.



I hope this helps. Greg L. The Noise Nazi

Thanks Greg. I will fill in the signature information. I'm new :'). you guys have given me a lot to check into. I've owned the truck since '98 and it's going from a daily driver to a project truck now. I think it's going to be a fun project!

 

[CarlSnyder]

Originally posted by CarlSnyder

Thanks Greg. I will fill in the signature information. I'm new :'). you guys have given me a lot to check into. I've owned the truck since '98 and it's going from a daily driver to a project truck now. I think it's going to be a fun project!

I just read about the KDP. Thanks for that tip, I will get that one first.

 

[Lsfarm]

KDP

Hi Carl, you are welcome this is what the TDR is about: helping each other, and having some fun while doing it.



Check out the photo in the forum's thread found below, contains a rather scary photo!!





https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=98973



Greg L.

 

[PKemp]

I have pretty much the same problem with the smoke. Here its a warm climate, rarely gets cold. Lots of white smoke and really rough running until engine comes up to temp. I've replaced the the grid heaters, fuel pump, fuel strainer/pre heater complete assembly and the fuel return pressure valve on the injector pump. It still does the same thing. Sounds like knocking also until warm. Any other ideas?

 

[Andy Redmond]

Pkemp:



There is a Bosch TSB on this. . involves the overflow valve. Other causes are retarded timing, air leaks (return fuel line), gaskets at pre-heater bowl etc. , etc.



Since youv's changed so much/many parts. . do you know what your fuel psi is now and while on a test drive?



Good luck

Andy

 

[nfox]

White Smoke

I would replace the rubber section of the fuel return and pressure hose between the firewall and the transmission. One is 5/16 and the other is 3/8, about 18 inchs of each hose will be enough to replace the old lines.

 

[PKemp]

No. I don't know what the fuel pressure is. How do I check it and where? There doesn't seem to be an easy way with all this plumbing.

And I did replace the rubber lines when I replaced the fuel pump.

Also, I don't seem to have a power problem once it warms up, so I don't really think its timming.



--Pat

 

[JGheen]

Why would you have to replace the rubber return and pressure lines? Do they corrode and leak somewhat frequently?? Do these lines come off the lift pump, like one going to the injection pump and one returning to the tank?? Illustrations would be great if anyone has one.....

 

[Cooker]

Originally posted by JGheen

Why would you have to replace the rubber return and pressure lines? Do they corrode and leak somewhat

Yes, they typically need replacement every couple years.

 

[JGheen]

So just get about 18-20 inches of 5/16 for the pressure side and 3/8 for the return side? Just basic rubber fuel hose from like Kragens or Napa or something?? Also, where are these lines again?? Are they both coming off the lift pump and have clamps to hold them on??