Who changed their A/T Fluid & How?

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I want to change to the ATF4 and don't like what the Dealer is telling me. Just wondered if someone who has changed their own would take the time to give a blow by blow description.
1. When you drop the pan is all the oil contained? Is there more oil than the pan holds? My intent is to ease a floor jack under the pan to hold it while loosening all the bolts. Hopefully I can gently lower the jack and keep the oil from spilling.
2. Any opinion as to if you can mix ATF3 and ATF4. The Dealer wants to power flush without dropping the pan and putting in a new filter - I don't like that plan. I would have to drive to BOZART'S, which is 150 miles to get to someone whom I trust to do a flush. So I hope to just change the oil in the pan this time. Then run the truck another 10K miles and change it again - and repeat this senario. Should have pretty undilute ATF4 after a couple of changes. Then get back to changing every 20K miles. The DC ATF is $30/G and it takes 2G for this kind of change. I really don't want to do the "remove the return line thing and run till I get a different color oil.
3. What parts do I need to buy: Can I use the old gasket?
4. Any other advice? thanks

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99' Quad 4x4 A/T LB 3. 54 30K Miles.

 

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Tl... by draining the pan your not getting all the fluid out. . i bet your only draining about 8 quarts at the most. (am not an expert) When we did my Valvebody and converter it took about 17 quarts and was totally dry. I was jus reading on another thread about another member had there transmission flushed, i forget which one... Get a new gasket too, not the kind that are all rolled up in a box... get the one that is packaged flat..... JB

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99 Quad,Long bed,4x4, SLT,Auto,K&N,Mobil Super Delvac 1300,fuel line up-grade from lift pump to filter and from filter to injection pump, Suncoast coverter,BD valve body and pressure-loc,Mag-Hytec trans pan,Amsoil ATF-4,Auto meter Ultra lite gauges:Boost,EGT,Fuel Pressure,Trans Temp, "true" Jet-Hot Coated 5 inch exhaust from turbo to tail pipe(over the axle)Borla shoot-out muffler,DD stage 3 injectors,4 wire Blue Box,HX-40 16cm2 and ATS exhaust manifold at Jet-Hot for there 2000 series coating(Gray), Valentine 1, EZ-pass

 

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tlippy, to change all the trans fluid it will be 16 quarts plus a bottle of trans conditioner. At the dealer they have a machine that does it in short order. Its not cheap but it is good service. Getting all the fluid out of the converter was why I let the dealer do it. Plus the tech that works on my truck is top shelf!! regards Pete

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99'3500,quad cab,4X4,a/t
3:54,all the right packages!PROPER VALVEMENT

 

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The PSD's have a bolt in the bottom of the torque convertor which can be taken out to drain the converter. You have to bump the starter to get to it sometimes. I am not sure if the Cummins has this... but it may be worth a look or a confirmation that it does not... CJ

99. 5 F350 CC DRW 4X4 LARIAT , AUTO/4. 10LS HOT CHIP , BANKS 3. 5 & BHA,
4”EXH. , RANCHO LIFT, 255/85/16 BFG’s, ARE SHELL , MAG HYTEC, TRIPLE
GUAGES, PHOTOS AT http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=950434&a=7098479

 

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Cobrajet. . am almost a 100% sure it doesn't

 

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The stock torque converter does not have a drain plug (mine didn't). My Suncoast converter does, though. You might also invest in a Mag-Hytec cover. It's worth the $, especially if you plan on changing your fluid often. Changing your fluid and not changing your filter is like taking a shower and putting dirty underwear back on. My 2¢ worth.

 

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We just put in a Transco kit in our trans while we had the pan off we drilled the pan cut a 1/4" npt coupling in half and tig it to the trans pan,sure makes it nice to get the oil out of pan before changing filter,location for sencor for transmission temp .

[This message has been edited by MACHINEST (edited 07-26-2000). ]

[This message has been edited by MACHINEST (edited 09-08-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

Originally posted by QuadDoorRam25004x4diesel:
Cobrajet. . am almost a 100% sure it doesn't

Used to be all the Mopar converters had a drain plug, have ya checked?

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Y2K 2500 QC Sport 4x4 LWB
72 Dart 340
89 LeBaron GTC 2. 2 TI

 

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Max. . when i intalled the suncoast and took the stocker out... it didnt

 

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Tlippy, each time I have dropped the pan, I used a replacement Mopar filter and gasket. Refills have been almost exactly 6 qts. with a pan drop, so I guess I'm not really replacing much fluid. I use an upside down plastic garbage can cover with a hole in the middle as a funnel to catch the messy pan overflow. Don't forget to adjust the bands if you can.

Ron

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98 3500 QC 4X4 Int Blue, 6BTA5. 9, Auto 3. 54 LSD, PIAA Pro90's, RS9000's, Tonneau, Running Boards, 5K Air Bags, Hadley Air Horns, EGT/Boost/transmission Temp Gauges, Cobra / K40, Valley class V, Bugflector II, Bedliner, Tow Hooks, Cup Smoothie, Meg's turn-down tip, SS Fender Flares... .....

99 Lance 1110 Slide-On Truck Camper

 

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The service schedule (for my '94) says to change trans fluid every 12k miles. At this frequency, 100% vs 60% change should not be an issue. The frequent changes (diesel vs gas) is because of the clutch material produced as the torque converter clutch slips during engagement.
It takes 10 to 12 quarts (newer pans)of fluid depending on how long you let it drain.
If you do it yourself, take the pan loose from 1 side as there is much more fluid than the pan holds. Let it run into the drain pan and then remove the trans pan.
Get a filter kit from Car Quest. It uses a good gasket material (no cork/rubber for me) and several of the bolt holes are "tight" to hold the bolts (and the gasket) in place during reinstall. Also, install a drain plug kit (B&M or equivalent), or better yet, buy a 1/2-20 nut and drain plug (with seal) while you are getting your gasket set. Drill a 33/64 hole in a flat section of the pan and have the nut welded to the inside. Just be sure its flat. The drain plug will seal against the outside surface of the pan and it won't leak. (I have done several). Then next time you will be able to do it without bathing in transfluid.
Don't forget to adjust the bands, I do mine about every other fluid change. You should have a service manual for the specs but it is an easy job while changing fluid.
Sorry this got long-Good Luck!

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'94 3500 4x4, 196,000 miles, Auto w/shift kit,3. 54 Gears, TST #5 plate, 235-85-16s, Rancho 9000s w/remote, Isspro gauges inplace of cupholder & Amsoil Bumper to Bumper. NRA member.

 

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I take a hose off at the oil cooler. I start the truck in "N", and it pumps the fluid into a bucket. When the flow stops, I have somebody shut it off. Then, I take the pan down, & let it drain over night. If I have time, I'll blow low pressure air through the lines both directions from the cooler where I disconnected the line. I change the internal filter, and the 10 micron, spin on filter, (which is actually at the location where I take the hose off, near the cooler) In the morning, I put it all back together, & it takes about 12 qt's to fill. In 107,000 miles, I've changed it this way about 4 times, and only adjusted the bands the first time..... DDG

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Locomotive Engineer/Red Ram Driver! 97, 2500, Auto,3:54, 2WD, Re-sale Red, Loaded w/Leather, Diamond Tread running boards & box, Bumper guards, "Bull Ring" tie-downs, Front bumper guards, Clearance lights, TST 230 HP kit (slid forward), Missing silencer ring K&N, Combo exhaust temp & boost gauge, Eng. & Trans. temp gauges, 3 Pos. Lock up switch.

 

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Hey MACHINEST, are you really a machinist? If so, did you alter the spelling for a reason? I noticed you have it spelled the same way by "occupation" on your information page. #ad


Tom, progressively (from front to back OR side to side) remove the trans. pan bolts, leaving the last two (at opposing corners BUT ON THE SAME SIDE) just SLIGHTLY loose. Carefully pry the pan away from the transmission allowing the ATF to progressively drain into a catch pan. After the major flow has subsided remove the remaining two bolts and pan. If you let the trans. drain for several hours you should have drained about 8 qts. The bands should be adjusted at this time (one internal, one external) as well as changing the filter. Adding a Mag-Hytec trans. pan is an excellent addition to your transmission (additional ATF capacity, better thermal coductivity, and added strength to the overall integrity of the transmission assembly), and now would be an excellent time to do this. An 1/8-27 NPT (plugged) hole is provided for a trans. temp. sensor. If you are considering the addition of a trans. temp. gauge in the future, now would be the time to purchase the gauge, installing the sender in the provided location. The gauge can be installed when time allows. It's easier than making a mess later on. Have fun.

I've also had very good luck with Red Line synthetic C+ATF3.

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'98. 5 2500 QC 4x4 Sport, Glasstite Vision II, 285 BFG A/Ts on M/T Challengers, Warn 4X Boards, Mopar fender flares & tow hooks, NW Custom s/s-rubber mud flaps, Mag-Hytec diff. cover & trans. pan, Edelbrock IAS shocks, Reese Titan V hitch, VDO Vision gauges, '00 Sport grille & valve cover, '00 Sport headlights/PIAA Super White bulbs, PIAA Dual Sport 900 aux. lights, BD exh. brake and TorqLoc, Prime-Loc, Bosch 275s, VA CPC, DD Boost Module, Banks Stinger wastegate actuator, ATS exh. man. , Banks 4" dia. s/s exh. sys. , BD V10/Cummins hybrid TC & valve body, BD trans. front pump & PressureLoc, Air Bulldog induction hood (with NACA ducts), plus MANY other trick modifications

 

[Archive]

Originally posted by John:
An 1/8-27 NPT (plugged) hole is provided for a trans. temp. sensor. If you are considering the addition of a trans. temp. gauge in the future, now would be the time to purchase the gauge, installing the sender in the provided location.

<font color=blue> Yes they provide a hole but this is NOT the best place for the temp sender. It will give you the temp of the fluid AFTER coming from the cooler.


Here is a thread for the "proper" location for the sender : Proper Location for transmission Temp Sensor

 

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Yes Kat, I had this debate with Bill Kondolay (in person) however, the pan position will exhibit a trend, removing the plus and minus spikes. Another plus to the pan location is a reduction in vibration for the sender; the pan seems to vibrate less than the cooler lines. I'd rather not install one of the (seemingly heavy for the intended location, factoring in vibration) trans. temp. senders in the cooler line. I thought of all the variables before I chose the path I took. Besides, with the trick BD LV V10/Cummins hybrid TC I have in my Ram, it runs so cool, heat is the LAST thing on my mind! How about yours? I've had my BD TC in since the beginning of April and have never seen temps. over 160 deg. F. (and that was with stall tests, many back to back full power run ups, full power hill climbs etc. ). I'm extremely pleased with my current configuration. #ad


[This message has been edited by John (edited 08-03-2000). ]