Who do I talk to about fileing a waretee claim? LOL

[Deere Jon]

I drained the engine oil out of the 91 250 night before last and it did not drain out correctly, after fishing for a bit with a magnet I pulled out a main thrust washer from the crank shaft. I looks to me like the three small tabs attaching the thrust section to the rest of the bearing finally broke and it fell out. The clutch released fine so I think if it was on the flywheel side the upper half is still in place. I have not checked the crank end play yet but will pull the pan hopefully first of the week to inspect damage. It lasted 325,000 miles I priced an underhaul kit from Case IH dealer for $250 does that sound reasonable. I have not called cummins yet but I bet they cannot be much cheeper. If I had another truck in the 300k range I would be looking at replacing the bearings based on my experience fyi. Later Jon

 

[1stgen4evr]

Jon your subject line shows LOL. I think you will find the warantee is going to be more like SOL.



But I brought a posting back to the top that involves the same problem that you have. Markha1 has just completed the repairs on his truck. He put in all new bearings but I think in some situations, you could just put the upper half with the thrust face and not do all the other bearings. Inspection would show more clearly. His is twd and automatic but I think the process will be about the same for you as his was. There are pictures etc that you should find useful. You might PM Mark for any other thing that he could add. But for sure, it is doable with the engine still in the truck. I believe you will find that Cummins is a little less on price. The thrust is only on the block. The cap half is just like the rest of the cap bearings. The part you found is probably off the front side but not absolutely.



James

 

[markha1]

Lol Yea I just finished the same thing, Take a look at the pics I posted under " flex plate woes" see if that looks familiar. If is is the aft thrust half you can see the damage it can cause. I replaced all my bearings because it wasn't any more work than just replaceing 1 also I could only get a set of them and after much sage counsel from 1stgen4evr ( Yoda James ) lol I decided to go for it, after all I had 400+K mikes on her

 

[markha1]

I had to remove the following,

All the Air hoses from the turbo to the intercooler and from the intercooler to the air box The radiator The Flexable trans lines on the drvrs side of the radiator Keep in mind that the trans was already removed No the rear main seal dose not need to be temoved. I had to replace my rear main due to a leak.



Disconnect the Turbo to exaust coupling

The general idea is to only disconnect or remove what is NECESSARY I hate to do a lot of work lol Finally disconnect the motor mount bolts on the mount studs in the center of the mount, Leave the mounts connected to the block and frame Then I used an engine lift to rais the engine enough to slide the pan out.



It take a little of care as the Pick up tube has to be disconnected at the same time as you remove the pan but it isn't hard.



The pickup tube gasket MUST be replaced.

If you need more info feel free to ask.

Mark H