2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Who has installed grease fittings on balljoints

[craftybigdog]

Hey guys I was looking at doing this and if you have what do you do just drill in the center of the balljoint and tap it and install a grease fitting and thats it, any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

 

[illflem]

Drill in the center cap opposite the stud, you will hit plastic, drill though it. Use a self tapping tapered zerk, the hole you drill will be just big enough to get it started, the taper will do the rest. Best to use a screwdriver type nut driver so you can apply pressure while turning.

 

[craftybigdog]

How about the tie rod ends the same thing and what size bit did you use and grease fittings and is this really worth the headache? Thanks for all the help!

 

[illflem]

The tie rods are the same method. There's some you can't get at without a hassle, it's your call if you want to do them. Some require removing the tire and turning hard one direction. The self tapping zerks are 1/4 NC tapered, a 3/16 bit will do it.

 

[Cooker]

Once again Illfelm offers great advice.

 

[fkovalski]

illflem- Do you have to be conceren about drill shavings entering the BJ cavity?

 

[illflem]

No problem since the last thing you will be drilling through is plastic, it will all come out in one spiral with any metal chips. If you have compressed air a little blast will clean it completely.

 

[rweis]

Scenario: 2002 3500 rwd

Jacked up the truck by the frame and put jack stands under each side high enough so the front wheels are about 1/2" off the ground and I can turn them side to side.



I drilled the driver side tie rod end joint to install a zerk. Got through the metal cap fine, but there seems to be something hard under the metal cap? From previous post in this thread I was expecting plastic. I did get a self taping zerk to tap in, and the boot is fairly "under inflated (15k miles)" but with the truck wheel off the ground (truck frame on jack stands) grease would not flow into the boot that I could tell. Zerk did not go in fully (about 1/8" yet to go to the zerk shoulder).



Did I stop too early (first time I have done this)? and the plastic is harder than I thought, or did I screw something up?



When the drill bit went through the metal cap there was a small amount of grease on the point of the bit when I removed the bit from the hole. The depth of the drill hole was maybe 3/16".



Suggestions?



I would like to put as many zerks in the steering sys as possible, but did I start where I should not have?



Bob Weis

 

[illflem]

It sounds like the new ones don't have plastic under the cap at least, the hard metal was probably the ball. If you hit grease you probably went far enough.

Will the zerk take grease?

 

[rweis]

The zerk took a small amount of grease but as soon as it started to take grease it then started to come out the threads and the boot did not expand at all, like the ball joint is right at the cap. Was not sure how far I could tap the zerk into the cap.



The frame is on jack stand and the tires are off the ground. I wondered if that had anything to do with it not taking grease.



Is there an alternative tie rod end that has a zerk in it?



I am now wondering about the other joints if I can tap them?



The zerk at the tie rod is threaded, but not by much.



Bob Weis

 

[drag racer]

illflem,



what year trucks have you seen first hand that have the plastic under the metal cap?

 

[illflem]

Only '97 and '99. I recall Whitmore saying he found plastic on his '01

 

[rweis]

Do you think I could put an 01 tie rod joint (that I could install a zerk correctly) into an 02 tie rod end?



Wonder if the dimensions, lengths etc are the same?



Sure would be nice to get grease in there.



Are there aftermarket manufacturers of the tie rod ends or the whole front steering assembly that are zerk friendly? I see after 15k miles that it will not be more than another 10k - 15k then the joints will be dry.



Bob Weis



ps I tried again to put grease in after the wheels were back on the ground, no luck. Would still not take any grease.

 

[ToolManTimTaylor]

GOD I wish i could grease the ones I have! 300 PSi couldn't get thru the zerk. ..... and thy are dry #ad
I need new ones SOON ... might as well start worrying now#ad

 

[Jeff Knight]

My 95 had grease fittings from the factory. They were still on the truck with 199000 miles on it. When my 02 needs them I will see if the ones for the older 2nd Gen trucks will fit or I'll put Lukes Link on them. Jeff

 

[dhauser]

Hi craftybigdog, question! Why do you want to go through all the gyrations of trying to drill ball joints for Zerk's when you can just buy new ones with Zerk's installed at the factory? I had to change mine and the first set that came in at Discount Auto did not have Zerk's, so I went to NAPA and purchased a set (upper and lower both sides) with Zerk's. You are going to have to take apart everything to drill or change so you might as well change them out with what you want. Or wait until one NEEDS to be changed and then do all four at that time. Happy trucking, Dave

 

[243]

Easy answer, because balljoints are not offered by any aftermarket suppliers for 2000-2002 4x4 trucks. The balljoints from www.quad4x4.com are manufactured by the same company who supplies DC according to there email reply.



It is possible that the balljoints offered by DC as replacement parts are not the same parts used by the factory when the truck was built. You may notice that the balljoint kits supplied by quad4x4 say "improved" but I have not verified what this refers to.