DE,
Don't remember where I got the switch
I'll see if I have the receipt and let you know. I bought it online somewhere. As for the wiring, I used the OEM pump harness to energize the coil on a relay attached high on the firewall. I was going to use a spare relay slot in the OEM box under the hood but never got around to messing with that, maybe someday. The power source is fused under the hood at the battery, this eliminates the fuse at the FASS under the truck as it was prone to corrosion and caused me problems once before. I used 14 gauge wiring instead of the 18 gauge supplied with my original harness, 14 gauge was as large as you can go and still use the connectors supplied. (they are nice and can be reused) The last and maybe most important point is to make sure you run a solid gound from the green wire on the pump to the negative terminal of the battery. For me the best/easiest place was under the battery ground on the fender. wire to wire all the way to the B- terminal
Hope this helps
SS,
My FASS was noisey and getting louder. Hard to explain the sound but if you have ever leaned to hard on a 1/4hp drill motor and burned it up you get the picture. Pump sounde like it was working really hard. I thought about wiring a simple ampmeter in line with the pump to give me a visual indication of how the pump was doing. This would also let you know when to change the filter. The harder the pump works the more current it will draw.
Don't remember where I got the switch


SS,
My FASS was noisey and getting louder. Hard to explain the sound but if you have ever leaned to hard on a 1/4hp drill motor and burned it up you get the picture. Pump sounde like it was working really hard. I thought about wiring a simple ampmeter in line with the pump to give me a visual indication of how the pump was doing. This would also let you know when to change the filter. The harder the pump works the more current it will draw.