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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Who has "upgraded" an ATS torque converter

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) tc lockup

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Last Feb my ATS built trans and t/c ate the input shaft. Along with the new billet input shaft I upgraded to the 5 star t/c from the 3 disc. unit. I'd like to know others opinions who have done this same t/c upgrade. Are you happy with it or not and why?

Thanks
 
I guess I'm the only fool who went from the bullet proof 3 disc t/c to the wimpy 5 "star" . Anyone got a 3 disc they want to sell? All kinds of h. p. under the hood and no way to get it to the rear wheels:{
 
It's amazing that nothing happens for months on end. Then I post this second remark and things start happening. I received a call from the owner of ATS and he thinks there's a problem with the valve body that'll effect the t/c and it's lockup. I sure hope so. I do appreciate the info and "IF" this doesn't work out I'll be talking to the Goerends. It looks like they're trying for me.

Thanks
 
Yes I also liked my triple lock better. The 5 star problems have been less stall, delayed lock-up [light comes on then converter locks like 4 seconds later] and overall hotter operating temps. I'm not impressed and all I get from them is "Huh havent heard anyone complain about that before" BS...
 
What Clint, owner of ATS, told me today was that with the billet input shaft they made the oiling hole in the center of the input shaft smaller for more steel strength. Makes sense. He also said that this was the reason for the 4 second delay on lock up. My temps don't seem to be any different, BUT before the ATS trans I bought a 94 trans cooler line just for that extra port to install the temp gauge $100 down the drain. The trans shop said that I didn't want it there (I didn't????) because it would always read hotter than it was. They put it in the pan and it doesn't change much like it used to do. I also put on the double deep aluminum oil pan during the original rebuild and that maybe keeping it cooler. Do you have the extra deep pan? I do truly wished that they would give us the opinon of 3 or 5 disc. I'd go back in a minute. I keep telling them that I could set my watch by the lockup of the 3 disc. This 5 disc seems to be all over the place. Also, with the 3 disc I could turn the rheostat controller to full tilt, lockup at 18 mph and never touch it through up shifts and down shifts. Now I have to turn it off while up shifting and back on once it's in 4th (for the exhaust brake to be any good) then turn it off again before I start off again or all hell breaks loose. Clint is the guy who designed the valve body and he believes that there is a hole (opening) in there that's letting fluid pressure through and that is causing my 2/3 up shift even though I have the shift lever in 2nd. Of course if I turn off the rheostat it works fine and will hold 2nd forever, but if I need to decel then I must use the "oh so fine brakes" instead of letting the exhaust brake do the work. So why did I spend all that money on the e brake?????????????????

I'll be keeping my eye out for someone parting with a 3 disc t/c. I can change it myself, but I'll let them try to correct it once more first. I don't have a bit of problem of going to that 3 disc from Goerend if this doesn't pan out. I even entertained notions of converting the a manual but decided against it. Thanks for the comeback and good luck.
 
I'm not having the disengagment problems like you. Mine seems to be ok there but trans is definitly inconsistant now and with my injectors in the winter if I dont let warm-up or idle for 10 minutes in the morning it will die if I put it in gear since this convertor is so much tighter. Never had these issues with the 3 disc. Mine is decked with everything except billet intermediate and output shafts. $$$$$$$$$ well spent?
 
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