Here I am

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission who makes a good set of brake calipers

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) My new HRVP 44

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Stainless Brake line kits???

Status
Not open for further replies.
Check out EGR Brakes for their Superduty blueprinted calipers. Standard Dodge calipers but the piston has been hand fit to work optimally at operating temp. I've got a set on my fronts on my '98 and they are working very well. Just checked brake wear today and pads are wearing very evenly and discs (EGR slotted) look great.



-Jay
 
I just ordered some yesterday for my '96 from EGR. My calipers are shot. I am probably going to farm out the brake job since I don't have time to mess with pulling the rotors and all.



Vaughn
 
Raybestos calipers@$43.99+core

We just replaced mine with Raybestos P. G. series unloaded rebuilts. It came out great. The installer is getting some for his '97.
 
SanFelipeBob caliper boots

Also we installed some silicone caliper boots from SFB to insure no more dirt or water entering the caliper pins. Time will tell. They're only $19. 97 delivered. :cool:
 
Raybestos calipers.

Vaughn MacKenzie said:
Were they very spendy Bob? Did you pick them up locally?



Vaughn

The Raybestos rebuilts were only $43. 99. I had to order them from Kragen(Pep Boys carries them also) and it took a week. The boots from San Felipe Bob are a neat deal he's come up with to prevent further contamination from the elements. The calipers cured my pulling problem. :)
 
does anyone know where i can get a bebuild kit for the calipers? i'm tired of buying knew calipers when they just need to be rebuilt with new seals. my local parts guy can't find any seals.



last time i checked the egr calipers where more $$$ than i can spend. help would be much appreciated. thanks
 
Caliper rebuild parts

I get my brake parts from these guys. http://www.onestopundercar.net/storefinder. asp?q=00000



EGR is the best for sure.

Be sure to carefully check out the rebuilt units from Raybestos and Wagner ECT.

They do not Blueprint the calipers to the highest of standards like EGR.

I saw one caliper that looked like it spent most of it's life 20 fathoms under the sea. The Salton Sea !!!! :eek:

Thanks to a very helpful parts guy he was able to find a caliper that was in better shape.



You should check your brake system out thoroughly.

Your calipers should not need to be rebuilt too often.

My original Calipers lasted 200 k .

You may have a problem that is very common to our 2nd gen trucks.



STICKY CALIPERS BOLTS/PINS



I have had to lube mine as often as every 2000 miles.

Even more when 4x 'n in the water.



Sticky caliper pins are start of our problems.

If you can keep your caliper pins from sticking you will eliminate most if not all of your brake problems.



Sticky caliper pins cause the brakes to drag.

This then causes the brakes to get real HOT!

Once the brakes get hot they cook the grease out of the caliper pins.

Of course this only makes them stick more.

Now your brakes are draging pulling from one side or the other for sure.

Now you are on your way to cooking the pads and the rotors.

Ok now you are really cooking!!

The rotors start to warp and crack!!!

Next thing to go are the seals around the caliper pistons.

After that you have cooked the brake fluid and the hoses.



And thats how Caliper pins can ruin your brakes.



Be sure to replace the Pins and the Rubber bushings at every change of pads.

Oh Yeah Keep those Pins lubed!

If you go offroad or drive in dusty,wet or salty conditions you will need to lube them very frequently.



SFB
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Bajabob said:
I had to order them from Kragen (Pep Boys carries them also) and it took a week.



We don't have either of these places in the Northwest (at least in this area). Just Schuck's & Auto Zone, I might check with them.



The right caliper on my '98 seems to be hanging up a bit since it pulls to the left under hard braking, and the left brake builds up dust on the wheel twice as fast. I've kep the pins lubed but it had little effect. The caliper bolts on my '98 have rubber seals already, but I need to get some boots from SFB for my '96.



SFB, the link no worky. . .



Vaughn
 
SFB link

Vaughn MacKenzie said:
We don't have either of these places in the Northwest (at least in this area). Just Schuck's & Auto Zone, I might check with them.



The right caliper on my '98 seems to be hanging up a bit since it pulls to the left under hard braking, and the left brake builds up dust on the wheel twice as fast. I've kep the pins lubed but it had little effect. The caliper bolts on my '98 have rubber seals already, but I need to get some boots from SFB for my '96.



SFB, the link no worky. . .



Vaughn



Try typing www.SanFelipeBob.com into your browser address bar.



I'll check the link. .
 
Testing 1 2 3

"The right caliper on my '98 seems to be hanging up a bit since it pulls to the left under hard braking, and the left brake builds up dust on the wheel twice as fast. I've kep the pins lubed but it had little effect. "



Pulling right or left under braking can be caused by either caliper as well as track bar,ball joints,tie rods, un-evenly worn tires and even the crown in the road.

Usually if it pulls right it's because the left side is not as strong as the right side.

This is usually caused by the left side getting brake fade due to heat build up.

I use an infrared temp guage to check for different temps from left to right.



Here's a way to check for a dragging caliper.

While the brakes are cold, safetly jack up the left front. The tire should be just off the ground.

Now give the tire a good spin.

It should spin at least 1 revolution.

Repeat the above steps for the right side.

Then repeat after the brakes are hot. More than 30 miles/ over 35 mph.

Each side should spin about the same with an equal amout of effort.



PM me with the results.



Only!!If you DIY your own front brakes

Here's a way to confirm if your caliper pins are sliding properly.

1) remove the tire

2) slightly open the bleeder to allow you to compress the caliper piston while it's still attached to the spindle.

3)Try to get the piston fully compressed into the caliper. (you'll need a minimum of 1/4" clearance. )

4)Close the bleeder.

5) Now slide the caliper assembly back and forth.

It should slide fairly freely by hand.



If the caliper does not slide free.

a)Check the condition of the caliper bolts.

If they look nice and shiny.

b)Check the rubber bushings.

As they age they get stiff.



PM me with questions



I'll look into a source for the parts to rebuild the calipers.



SFB
 
Bob, very good tips, thanks! I'll give it a try this weekend and let you know what I find.



Your link works fine, I was talking about the one above for the caliper source.



Vaughn
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top