2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Wholly exhaust batman

[Hddriver]

I was ready to start bombing after replacing my original shocks yesterday. 107000 on a set of shocks



I found my exhaust looks like swiss cheese.

I have a completely stock drive train with planned upgrades to 300 HP. including a new turbo housing.



I have seen exhaust systems from $500 to $1300.

From aluminized steel to Stainless.



question:

1. Is stainless really last longer that the 14 guage aluminized steel. Is it worth the extra $300-$400. This is not a show truck and asthetics on the underside are not a factor.

2. Is there THAT much performance increase between the 4"and 5" sustems. I do a lot of highway miles so the muffler is a must.



Thanks

Will try the install myself.

CHeers

Chuck

 

[Bob Wagner]

If you're going to keep the muffler, check out Rip's Allied system



The sound of the Allied system is sweet.



Alumized will last a long long time





Rip's site

 

[JGK]

Chuck,



I think the general consensus here is that stainless is neat, but unless you plan to keep the truck for 10 years or more (or plan to polish and show the bottom a lot), aluminized steel works just fine. Go with it if you want, but the money can be spent elsewhere for better gains. And very good systems can be had for under $500 (contact Rip Rook through the TDR).



As to diameter, I think most will agree that 4" works just dandy until you get well over 500 hp. Unless, of course, you go with stacks. Then most are doing 5" for looks.



Installation of these systems is easy. The hardest part is getting the old one out unless you take a torch or sawsall to it.



A word of advice: In case you want to dissasemble the new one at some point (new downpipe for a 16 cm turbo housing, for instance), use band clamps at the joints instead of the typical 2-piece ones that use U-shaped threaded rod and 2 nuts. Just tack weld the joint in a couple of places and put the band clamp over the joint. The bent-rod ones crimp the pipe and make dissasembly much more difficult.



-Jay

 

[illflem]

Stainless also lasts much longer if you live in an area where road ice melter is used or you launch boats in salt water. Banks has drastically lowered the price on their lifetime warranted stainless systems, give them a look.

 

[CAT 385]

A buddy of mine installed the Magnaflow stainless it sounds great and no drone. The cummins shop here says that because of the heavier metal in the stainless it eliminates the drone. He only paid 800 bucks for it new. After I figured in the price of mine plus installing a resonator, I wished I would have just bought the stainless.

 

[Joe Mc]

Looking to Bomb eh? 300 HP - you mite consider the aluminized exhaust and seeing that you're an automatic (as I am) save the extra $ you'd spend on an S/S exhaust which you could probably Will to your grandchildren (depending on your age of course) for some transmission "insurance" before the 300 HP mods. JMHO



I've learned by listening (here) that our trans', in their stock condition, just don't hold up too long to increased HP with out at lease a torque converter & valve body upgrade. These aren't cheap (I'm still saving) but they beat the price of a rebuild once you start slipping and frying things inside. Do a search - try using just "VB" or "TC" and see what you hit.



BOMBS Awayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy!

 

[ToolManTimTaylor]

Batman What the heck did you do now?



4" ---- > 5" Not a lick of difference in gains @ 300 H. P



illflem's right Stainless is the way to go in a salty area [ct is the road salt capitol of the free world (Me I HAD bank's system but from switching this that and the other it just was tired of welds mishapes and PDR40 ... . Now I have a janetty for 300$)

 

[Hddriver]

Jeese I just realized that Jenney's shop is just 45 minutes up the street from my temp house.

Will call him tomorrow morning.

Thanks