2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Who's replaced their cab, box, etc?

[JoshPeters]

Living here in Minnesnowda, land of white roads, even when it's not snowing... Salt isn't just for eating.



Well it eats alright... . Anything Metal!



So... . I've found a Cab, and may have found a box. I'm obviously going to do this right the first time when I actually do it. I plan on sandblasting the inside and outside of the cab and box and repairing ANY rust spots before I paint it.



Is there anything you guys suggest? Anything different for under the carpet? Along the firewall? I think I'm going to have the underside of the cab and box done with spray on bedliner. (the professional version!) I realize it's going to add weight... but I don't want to have to do this again!





Over the winter I'm going to teach myself how to paint. I've picked up a couple spray guns, and have a friend that is willing to teach me. I'm also going to pick up some books on the subject. Any materials I should stay away from? Things I should use?



Sorry for being long winded.....

JP

 

[Nate]

My Dad learned auto painting when he fixed up a 79 Chev 1/2 ton "farm truck". It's starting to rust now, but he painted it around 1994. I figure that's not bad at all!

 

[wildmanben]

By adding the bedliner you will bring down the noise levels in the cab too. Dupont has had some of the better products from what I have used. But they cost a bit more...

 

[cojhl2]

Do not sandblast the sheet metal. It warps it!!!!!!!!

 

[JoshPeters]

Do not sandblast the sheet metal. It warps it!!!!!!!!

Thanks! I did not know that! I guess I'll just do the inside of the cab and the bottom. Stuff that is unseen.



Because I'm a glutton for punishment..... I'll probably sandblast the frame, etc... . paint that... . I only wanna do this once!



Good thing I have more time than money... .

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

I would also spray bedliner about 12-18 inches along the bottom. Your rockers and cab corners will last alot longer. You could also spray the floor of the cab. Getting in and out in the winter with snow and salt on your feet seeps thru the carpet and rusts from the inside out.

 

[JoshPeters]

I would also spray bedliner about 12-18 inches along the bottom. Your rockers and cab corners will last alot longer. You could also spray the floor of the cab. Getting in and out in the winter with snow and salt on your feet seeps thru the carpet and rusts from the inside out.

Duluth Diesel did the rockers. I like it and I'm planning on doing the same.



The cab... that's a good idea! Maybe I won't put carpet back in it, just put floor matts on top of the bedliner material!



JP

 

[analog]

Because I'm a glutton for punishment..... I'll probably sandblast the frame, etc... . paint that... . I only wanna do this once!

On the frame paint, check out http://www.por15.com/. I used it on my CJ-7 frame off, and it's great stuff. Much stronger than paint.

 

[wildmanben]

Do not sandblast the sheet metal. It warps it!!!!!!!!

You can sand blast sheet metal, just keep the nozzle a few feet away and dont hold a spot for too long. It can be done. It will only warp the sheet metal if your too close or spraying one spot for too long, or if your sand blaster is industrial size or something. But with a medium size blaster, you'll be ok.

 

[BILLVO]

There are a lot of new products and companies that do what is called Soda blasting it is far less agressive than sand blasting it is the best for sheet metal it is less likely to damage or warp it. check into this.

 

[SMorneau]

Josh, you need to come over to my place and drink some beer. I will show you where the holes above my rear wheel wells. It is a closed up area that you will not be able to get to. If I were you I would do the cab and build a nice flat bed or a utility box. Rust never sleeps especially in nice quiet closed off areas.

 

[TNicholas]

por .com. this stuff is good

 

[drury]

Bedliner is great for protecting against scratches, but is not designed for sound reduction, and doesn't do a very good job of it. You can get very good corrosion protection and sound reduction if you use some of something like Spectrum Spray from Second Skin Audio: http://www.secondskinaudio.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?pg=2&p=ps



They recommend a 2mm thick buildup, so you will get considerable protection against rock chips, and the vehicle will be much quieter.



There are several other similar competing products, such as Dynaspray, Quiet Car, Silent Running, etc. If you are going to strip a cab down, it would be an absolute shame not to take the opportunity to apply something like this.

 

[JoshPeters]

Great stuff guys!



Keep it comming!



Can I get the Spectrum spray in different colors?



So... Spray on bedliner the rockers and possibly the inside of the cab. Spectrum spray the firewall and the underside of the cab. POR 15 on the Frame and any chassis parts.



I had another wild idea... . Being they are both extended cabs... . I'll also have a frame sitting there... . What if I cut the "window" area out of both cabs... and made the cab like a "sleeper" with no side windows. It would basically be a double deep extended cab. With my existing cab sitting there, I'd have plenty of material to use. What do you guys think? Extra doors would be nice... But really, I don't think I'd be able to tackle something like that. Just adding the length would be enough.



JP

 

[SMorneau]

So now you are thinking about saving the extra cab? If it's worth saving why are you going to replace it? I really wouldn't spend a lot of money trying to preserve the bed on a dually truck. It would be a fun project for some Fat Kid to help you build a nice custom bed.



I have read mixed reviews on on POR15 so you might want to do some more research on that.



Scott

 

[JoshPeters]

So now you are thinking about saving the extra cab? If it's worth saving why are you going to replace it? I really wouldn't spend a lot of money trying to preserve the bed on a dually truck. It would be a fun project for some Fat Kid to help you build a nice custom bed.



I have read mixed reviews on on POR15 so you might want to do some more research on that.



Scott

I'm thinking about extending my cab by again the extended cab. What is rotten with my cab is just ahead of the section I'd be cutting out. The Flat bed would be ok, but would cost me more than $350. (that's what I've found a dually box for)



We will see. I'm for sure doing a cab swap... . the bed can happen later. Although if I'm going to go through all the trouble painting it... I'd like to do it all at once.



JP

 

[Extreme1]

The best prevention is a quality rustproofing job. I'm in the process of converting to an extended cab and the RUSTFREE California cab is going to visit a guy that's been doing it for 22 years and takes pride in his work. If the solution (salt isn't as bad as the new crap) can get to it, it will rust. Rustproofing crates a water tight barrier.



If you find a place that does good work (inspect their quality!), discuss pricing that is on a time & materials rate without a warrantee. The warrantees aren't any good any more (I used to sell rustproofing when it was) so don't waste the $$.



I wouldn't blast any areas that aren't rusted, the metal has coatings on it to prevent rust. Blasting will remove it and it will rust faster than a '74 Vega.



Thanks for the links to the sound deadner, I want to do something to keep the racket down inside this cab.



Edit: Keeping the stuff from the tires off the rockers helps a lot as well. Large mudflaps or better yet running boards (or both) do this really well. I like the way my truck looks without the running boards better but they come in handy.

 

[CumminsAholic]

It'd sure look cool with 2 sets of real doors then the ext cab part. I know that's where your cab is bad. You could put another extended part on. But then what, make it a short box dually? Or do you want the frame too so you can extend yours? I'd blast the cab and frame when it's off and coat the bottom like you said. Use some good primer and paint for the body, you should be good to go. That's what I'm plannin' on doing to the ramcharger. They also make a frame paint, or use a trailer paint like they use on semi trailers for the frame, that stuff is tough. Oh yeah...come and get the cab before it snows... if it ever does.

Corey

 

[DixonL]

Josh,



Since you are looking to get some ideas on the basics of metal work and painting... . I am suggesting you checkout paintucation.com . It is a great website and they sell DVD's for guys and shows the how to on everything. The guy (Kevin Tentz) who done this DVD video series is the host on Trucks (Spike TV). I have been restoring tractors and it does a good job of teaching you the basics and more advanced techniques too.



Thad (Ohio)

 

[PRattenbury]

You know, POR-15 is good stuff, no doubt. It is a long process to do it right, though. And it's expensive. There's another product out there as well called Chassis Saver, which some people say is even better than POR-15. It's also pricey, and I'm not sure about how complex a process it is to apply. If I were to do another chassis I would either do what I did to my Chevelle (powdercoat it) or, if I were to be applying a coating out of a can, I would save myself a lot of cash and use brush-on Rust-Oleum. The guy that does all my sandblasting told me it's harder to remove than POR, and almost as difficult to get off as Chassis Saver. Powdercoating is really hard to get off. You have to get it hot before it'll even consider being removed. And it looks sweet. Just my $. 02.