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My VDO boost gauge that rattles inside and pyro gauge that jumps around and zeros every now and then are coming out! I'm thinking of repalcing them with SPA duals so I can also watch fuel pressures. How do you guys using then like them? Are they REALLY expensive or is it a get what you pay for thing?

I've had these gauges for over 3 months and called Summit racing just to see what they would say. They said take them out and send them back, no boxes etc. , no big deal. I've dealt with Summit for about 8 years and their customer service is top notch

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2001 black dually,4x4, 6 speed H. O. ,loaded up. Jacobs E brake, lighted running boards, toolbox, solor visor, mag hytec cover, rhino lined, diamond tread rail protectors, mud flaps with genos chrome plates, megs exhaust tip, VDO vision series pillar mounted pyro & boost gauges (to be changed), rerouted blowby bottle, torklift class 5 double tube extension hitch and frame mount camper anchors... Its not a hobby anymore, its an addiction!
 
I LOVE my SPA digital gauges. I will never go back to analog. IMHO, these show a faster update of what is going on. Plus, they are digitally calibrated, which means no parts to get outta whack. Installation is way easy. Another added benefit is the peak value recall, which gives you maximum readings at the push of a button. Well worth the extra $$$, if ya ask me. Only complaint is the cheapo EGT probe connectors. I will be using a different thermocouple soon, with standard connections.

BOMBED
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Evan A. Beck "NW PUNK"
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'01 2500HD 4x2 QC, 139" WB, 6-speed, ETH, SLT... yadda yadda yadda... K&N, 3" "PIPE BOMB", 6-way turn signal conversion, aux. backup lights, Line-X, Mopar rubber mats, Cummins badging, SPA Technique boost & pyro gauges. 5,250 miles since 4/26/00! Look for me on AOL as “Beck2500!”
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Hey Dune Racer, that's kind of odd, the VDO Vision series pyrometers are made in Switzerland and appear to be of extremely high quality. I wonder if it was dropped as your condition is definitely not normal.

The SPA gauges look very trick. Good luck if you decide to go this route.

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'98. 5 2500 QC 4x4, (BLACK) SLT Sport, ISB, LWB, 3. 54 LSD, A/T, Glasstite Vision II canopy, Line-X spray in liner, 285/75R16 BFG A/Ts on 16x8 M/T Challengers, Warn 4X Boards, Mopar fender flares, front and rear NW Custom stainless steel/rubber mud flaps, Mag-Hytec diff. cover and trans. pan, Edelbrock IAS shocks, Mopar tow hooks, Reese Titan V hitch, Jordan Research Ultima 2020 trailer brake controller, VDO Vision gauges, '00 Sport grille, '00 Sport headlights with PIAA Super White 9007/9004 bulbs, 4-2-7+4 Brite-Box, PIAA Dual Sport 900 auxiliary lights, BD exhaust brake and TorqLoc, Prime-Loc fuel filter relocation kit, Bosch 275 hp. injectors, VA CPC, DD Boost Module, Banks Stinger wastegate actuator, BLACK '00 valve cover, Banks Stinger 4" dia. stainless steel exhaust system, BD LV V10/Cummins hybrid TC and valve body, BD modified transmission front pump and PressureLoc, Air Bulldog induction hood (with NACA ducts), plus many other trick modifications

[This message has been edited by John (edited 07-03-2000). ]
 
I love my SPA gauges. The peak hold feature is a nice addition, along with lots of stuff to change (or not) to keep us gadget folks happy.

#ad
 
Using SPA dual, EGT and boost.
Negative: First thermocouple broken by installer (not SPA's fault). Boost started flashing random #'s first rainstorm. EGT reads in about 7 degree increments - jumps from 307 to 300 to 293 during cooldown, for example. This is normal, just not the 307/306/305 countdown I was expecting with a digital.
BUT NOW, "THE REST OF THE STORY"
POSITIVE: SPA sent me a new free thermocouple, I paid shipping only. Absolutely no reason they had to do this; as I said, it was installer error. They took care of me anyway. Temps respond almost instantly to throttle changes. A+++
Boost gauge: One quick phone call; described what I was seeing. SPA immediately told me what to look for - 10 minutes later, a couple of connections tightened, gauge working fine ever since. A++
I wish the backlight could be turned on and off without accessing the main menu, and had adjustible brightness, but, then again, I love the relatively large read-out numbers. BOTTOM LINE, I'm very happy with this guage. It still has future potential I'm not even tapping yet with the external alarm circuits, and I would buy this product again in a heartbeat.

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2001 ETH, QC, LWB, 4WD, 3. 54, SPA Pyro & Boost, Leer Cab-high shell, ARB's soon
 
Love my VDO Vision gauges! Never a problem. Also, you need to decide whether you're an analog or digital guy-I'm definitely analog.

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David Dressler
2001 Driftwood 3500 Quad Cab 4x4, 155 inch WB, 5. 9L HO Cummins Diesel (ETH), 6-Speed HD Manual (DEE), SLT+, 3. 54 Anti-Spin Axle, Camper Special Group, Trailer Tow Group, Leather, Sliding Rear Window, Jacob's E-Brake, Rhino Liner, VDO Vision (pyro, boost, engine oil temp. ), Weather Guard Diamond Plate Saddle Box, AND functional Halo light!
"Diesel, it's not just for breakfast!"
 
I just wanted to say a couple things here about the SPA's, yes I do sell them but I do also want to put in a personal note. SPA has gone the extra mile for me personally along with others to make us happy customers; we did have some problems up front with thermocouple but now has been resolved. I love my gauges I do agree that a dimmable light would be nice but have grown used to it, other than that they have held up to some pretty drastic extremes and look nice also. Like I said not trying to be a salesman just my personal opinion of them.

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TAZ... 2001 2500 SLT+ 4X4 Auto ETC Cummins, LSD 3. 54,Quad Cab, Long Bed, Agate Leather, White/Driftwood Exterior, Sliding rear window, Camper Special Group, Towing Group, Cab clearance lights, Diesel Dynamics Stage-3's, DD Boost Module,SPA-Technique Digital Dual Gauges (Pyro/Boost, Trans pressure/temp) Aux. Backup lamps. BNM 5th Wheel Hitch, Additional Body Molding on Bed.

2000 32' Aljo Triple Slide 5th Wheel.

http://www.ramtaz. 20m.com

Add on's to come: Exhaust Brake, Torq-Loc, Line-X bed-liner, and any other Ram Runner required modification...
 
I just received my SPA dual gauges today. As soon as the pillar mount arrives, will do install. I too wish the backlight could be dimmed and wired into the panel lights. One concern for me was the ability to see readouts in the daylight. Anyone with any feedback?

Steve

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Y2K 3500 SLT+,4x2,Black/Camel,leather,LSD,Auto,3. 55,towing,rhino-liner,eagle series 58 alum wheels,JRE 4" exhaust,VA CPC

98 20. 1'Viper Coral/200 Merc EFI
 
Bringing this back to the top with an update on my SPA gauges:
BOOST: The dielectric grease I used on the connectors solved my problems with erratic readings - gauge worked great, for exactly 3 days. #ad
Now I'm reading boost pressures of 135 to 235 psi. I DON'T THINK SO.
TEMPERATURE: After some initial installation problems, the gauge performed beautifully for two months, UNTIL LAST NIGHT. #ad
( Now, the numbers are jumping around by about +/- 100 degrees, and seem to be settling out at about 100 degrees above the true reading. I say this because I know my truck, and I know my EGT is not sitting above 400 degrees after my usual "cool down" driving style as I near home, and then sitting for 3 minutes idling in my driveway.
I trust that SPA's good customer service will continue, but the problem is I really don't have time to screw with it right now, working too much and what precious little time I have I would rather spend changing out the fluids, not just trying to get the basic stuff to work.
ARE OTHERS SEEING THESE PROBLEMS, or AM I THE ONLY LUCKY ONE?

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2001 ETH, QC, LWB, 4WD, 3. 54, SPA Pyro & Boost, Leer Cab-high shell, Rear ARB locker, Psychotty Air
 
HC,
I'm sure you've probably already checked this but have you checked to see if the range (ran) is set correctly? It should be set to 16. Mine showed real high numbers until I reset them. No problems since.

Steve


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Y2K 3500 SLT+,4x2,Black/Camel,leather,LSD,Auto,3. 55,towing,rhino-liner,eagle series 58 alum wheels,JRE 4" exhaust,VA CPC,SPA gauges,Mag-Hytec Trans Cover

98 20. 1'Viper Coral/200 Merc EFI
 
Good idea, but yes, range is set correctly. Remember - mine has worked correctly, it just won't keep working for more than a few days in a row before I have to fiddle with the connections again. I went out this afternoon, disassembled the plug, removed then reinstalled and tightened the screws that hold the wire into the plug. The good news is, the pressure sensor is now working properly again; the bad news is, how long this time? A day? A week? One more round of this and I am going to find a way to solder the connections and then put shrink wrap around it - I don't care anymore how it looks, I just want it to keep working! I mean, it is not like I use a firehose to wash my engine compartment every day or something. I haven't even driven in the rain lately.
I don't know yet if this had any impact on the thermocouple readings - I wouldn't expect it to, but at this point I'll believe anything. The "low end" was correct - before I started the engine, it was saying 95 degrees, about right for my driveway today. Going for a test drive in a few minutes to see how everything shapes up.
TEST DRIVE RESULTS: Both Boost and Temp now seem to be working normally again. But how long? And how did the Boost connections cause malfunction of the Temp gauge, or, was this mere coincidence, and will the Temp gauge go out again on a longer, full temperature drive?


[This message has been edited by HC (edited 08-27-2000). ]
 
SPA gauges..... I got mine installed several days ago. They were relatively easy to install. I also have had problems with the boost connection. Took it apart several times as it started to flash FL - 00. That is an indication of a break in the continuity somewhere. I cleaned up the connection and reinstalled, tightened the screw. Lasted overnight and crapped again. The last time I put a SLIGHT twist on the prongs on the sensor. Had a little trouble reconnecting but finally got it and it has worked well since (several Days).
I like the quick response, the recall of the max. readings but do not like the bright back light at night. Am working on finding a darkened medium of some kind that will allow daytime vision and dim the light at night. Anyone find anything to do that with?
Definitely would buy them again. Actually did not buy them the first time. My sons bought them for me for fathers day.

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1998. 5; 24v,3500,4x4,SLT,QC,5 spd,3. 54LS, 4 whl. antilock, all options available when ordered, 18k lb. Reese full tilt 5th whl. hitch, oem full length diamond plate running boards, eyebrows & hood dam, bed edges,bedhooks; gray Rhinohide liner, Pac Brake, britebox,"deepdish"mats, matching topper shell, Sandstone(looks gray to me) & camel leather, stainless fender eyebrows, chrome(and road tar) exhaust turndown pipe; brush guard, SPA digital boost/egt(pre-turbo) gauge and pillar mount.
Lowered rear end 4" to set truck level.
See My Truck

1980, W200 Powerwagon, regular 4 door crewcab, 360 gas, auto, 68k original miles, 4 coats of Zeebart but losing ground to the saltwater anyway.
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I dig 'em! #ad


I've got 2 dual guages (2 pyros - pre and post turbo- and a boost/trans temp). Work great!

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'01 2500 SLT+, QC, LWB, 4X4, 3. 54s, AT, SPA guages, Alpha Liner, Stolen Silencer ring, every option but running lights! To come: DD Stage II's PE or DD Boost Module, Exhaust brake, 4" turbo to tail, etc...

'98 DUCATI ST2 "Bombed" 944CC with Ducati Performance Carbon Fiber Exhaust, F. I. M. Chip, K&N and "modified" air box.
 
Jack,
An idea for dimming the gauges:
Try cutting a piece of plastic to shape - round, with a tabs on the top, bottom, and/or sides. One or two of the tabs will insert between the glass face and the edge of the gauge, leave at least one hanging out for easy removal. When I had flashing red lights I found a piece of paper could be stuck in to block the annoying random red flashes. You can buy different colors of clear plastic at any school supply - they sell the plastic for report covers. Maybe red or green??? Or keep it simple and go for light gray...
With the right color and shade you might not have to remove for daylight viewing, but even if you do it is not much more trouble than turning the backlight on and off.
 
If you can find a sheet of polarized material, you can make a dimmer out of it since the LCD is using polarized material for it's display. As you rotate your added filter, the light will get darker as the polarized material aligns properly... . just an idea Hold up a pair of polarized sunglasses to the front of it to get the idea.
 
Building on David_VT's idea,
If the sunglasses test yields good results, then go to a good "professional" camera store. They make polarized filters for cameras in a variety of sizes - if they don't have it in stock, they can probably order one near the correct size. The great thing about this option would be that the camera lens already has a rotating bezel, so once you get it on, you could just reach up and twist to adjust at will. Now all you need to do is come up with an attachment method.
Good tip, David!
 
Several good practical ideas. Thanks for the come back on the toooo bright background lite.
I like the photo shop idea. Will investigate it.
 
First off, I love the SPA gauges, no they are not expensive, and they were relatively safe for me to install. I'm not very good with tedious things like wiring.
HC, the gauge can be programmed for single digit display, but trust me, the numbers move too fast to make it readable. The seven digit readout is to slow the numbers during acceleration or deceleration.

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1998 CUMMINS Dodge Ram
GLTDR
 
Stack'd:
With the single digit display, can you also set a variable "time averaging" like with the pressure variable? Setting to a 0. 2 second average or even 0. 5 should still give quick response, but in a readable format...

connection update: gauges worked again, for 1/2 day. Tugged on the wires, and got the gauge working again later in the day. Going to use a rubber band to maintain tension on the wires until I have time to throw down the gauntlet --- oops, I mean, get out the soldering iron... #ad


I'm almost beginning to wonder if the short is in the wire near the plug, and not in the plug connection itself. The soldering iron will settle that potential issue one way or the other.

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2001 ETH, QC, LWB, 4WD, 3. 54, SPA Pyro & Boost, Leer Cab-high shell, Rear ARB locker, Psychotty Air
 
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Issue 128 – Digital Version
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Back Issues
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