Why are my tires cupping?

[stacerbob]

If only the right tire wore on the outside that is not a toe problem, it may have had too much toe but that is an indication of heavy camber + the lead to the right.

If the shocks were bad enough to let the tires bounce bad enough to get cupped you would have known it a long time before 74,000. Granted the stock shocks are junk when new but shocks are probably the least cause for the wear.

Put on new shocks, run the tires max air and rotate them in an X every 6-8000.

Has anybody on here ever heard " do one thing and do it good"

 

[Matt42]

Alignment at a Tire Shop?

Originally posted by BigMike

I don't have the readings. I took it to Schwab's. They said it checked out fine and didn't charge me a dime. That's why I like Schwabs. They don't think bad shocks is the problem. Who knows!! They told me to rotate more frequently. Also told me to bring it in after about 1000 miles since rotation and they'll take a look and see if the fronts are still wearing unevenly. They didn't try and convince me I needed to buy shocks. I think it's time to change shocks anyway. They can't last forever! So now the question is: What kind of shocks should I buy??

Mike: I think your shock absorbers are shot. I'll try to stay away from recommending brands, because after 74K miles, anything will be an improvement. Even OEMs from the dealer will be better. I am currently running Rancho 5000 shock absorbers. The best I ever used were the gas-filled 1 3/8" piston type I orded from J. C. Whitney for my 1983 Full Size Wagoneer! I wish I could still get them. (I miss the Wagoneer, but not the 5 mpg towing. )



If the outer edge of the right front is wearing (but not the left), check the track bar.



I used to work at an independent tire shop in L. A. County, twenty and change years ago. (I have ranted about the owner at other threads. ) They also did alignments. At times, the alignment operator was told to align vehicles close, but not exact, because it generated repeat tire bisiness. Since then, I've been wary about getting alignments done at a tire shop.

 

[Hohn]

Originally posted by BigMike

I thought the same thing fjk, but they dismissed it. What should I look for on my shocks to indicate needing replacement?

If you see a MOPAR part number on there, that's a sure sign they need to be replaced



Sorry, I couldn't resist



And I am a MOPAR guy, too!!



jlh

 

[BigMike]

Ok, I bit the bullet and put new shocks on. Went to Les Schwab who had a sale on their RMX monotubes. Supposedly they compete well with Bilsteins. Cost was $60 each, but they had a sale where you buy one and get one free. I can already tell the difference in ride. Hope it solves my tire wear problem. Thanks for all your advice.

 

[y-knot]

I don't think you can go by mileage or years when it comes to the shocks being good or bad. I replace all 4 of the stock shocks at 21,000 miles. They never felt right to me, and the front were completely gone when I removed them. I installed RANCHO RS5000'S all the way around, and it really helped. But after 10,000 miles I was back to the same old crape. One of the front shocks was leaking, so I replaced the front two with BILSTIEN's, they are a stiffer shock, and do provide alot of dampening. Some might even say they are too stiff, I don't mind, but others might. They are still working great and really helped in the handling department, not as much roll over in tight turns.

 

[bmoeller]

Originally posted by y-knot

... ..... so I replaced the front two with BILSTIEN's, they are a stiffer shock, and do provide alot of dampening. Some might even say they are too stiff, I don't mind, but others might. They are still working great and really helped in the handling department, not as much roll over in tight turns.

Put Bilsteins on 2 nights ago. So far I am very happy with them. Handles much better.