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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Why does my air conditioning suck???

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Having pump problems

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My a/c sucks. If i idle it blows cold. As soon as ime doing 75mph on the freeway, i get cool air, not cold. Couldnt be freezing up in 10 minutes in dry ole Arizona??!! Any one have a thought, or do i have to take it to a shop. ?? RRR

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1996 3500 diesel 5 speed 2wd BONE STOCK 20 mpg
 
I bet your a little low on freon. Try turning it off waiting a moment then turning it back on again. See if it gets cold for awhile then. If it does... put some $Freon$ in it.

PS I heard that this year wholesale on 30lbs of R12 is $900!! So I bet its $60 a pound for customers.
Clark

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Clark
1999 2500 QC SB 5spd Flowmaster 3 chamber, K&N Re-0880
1968 Barracuda Formula S Viper Blue 11. 98@112 Currently scattered all over the garage
 
Our trucks are already R134a, and that's the whole problem. R134a SUCKS as far as cooling ability goes. My '98 Z28 has R134a also and it's AC also sucks.

My '86 Corvette has R12, and it blows the coldest air I've felt in years. Figures.

I hate the **** EPA and the gov't.

Rob


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2001. 5 RAM 3500 QC 4x4 ETH/DEE Silver/Agate, 4. 10, USGear OD, Rickson 19. 5 Wheels, DD EZ, DD3 Injectors, SPA Guages, Psychotty, Firestone Airbags, Hellwig Rear Swaybar, Torklift Superhitch & Camper Tiedowns, Mag-Hytec Diff Cover, DD 4" Exhaust, US Gear Exhaust Brake, etc. On order: Southbend Clutch, HX-40
 
Turned on my AC for the first time today. It was 93 degrees! My blows really cold no matter what. You have a problem. Get it checked.


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1995 Ram 2500,SLT,5-spd,4. 10,std cab,4X4,215 injectors,Banks Powerpack,boost and pyro guages,gutted CAT,33"/16. 5 BFG AT's,Outdoorsman cap,Reese Titan V hitch
 
Unless things have changed boys, you should run your A/C for at least 5 min every month to keep the seals lubricated throughout the system. Otherwise freon will leak.

As an AZ native, I'm painfully aware of this fact.

While 134a is not as good as the old stuff, I've never had a complaint with my '99. Maybe it doesn't get as hot here in Phx as other places in the US... #ad


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'99 4x4 • SB • QC • 3. 54 • LSD • AT • Leather • Mag-Hytec • Westach Guages • Line-X • Luverne Nerfs • Tommy Gate

Towing:
'99 28' Airstream Excella (~7000# dry)
'69 24' IMP Inca Twin Screw (~6000# wet)

[This message has been edited by OILBRNR (edited 04-17-2001). ]
 
Have yet to use my AC, since i only bought my truck in October. I heard the Horton fan clutch makes the A/C work real good though. Especially in traffic. We shall soon see.
 
On at least the '99s and up, if you used your defrost, you used the A/C. There are only two positions that A/C won't come on at the cooler setting (it isn't the the two heat settings).

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<font color=#990000>~<font color=#990000> '99 2500 SLT <font color=#990000> ~ QC ~ 4X4 ~ LB ~ Auto ~ 4:10 LSD ~
<font color=#000000>*<font color=#990000> BD E-brake<font color=#000000> *<font color=#990000> BD Autolock<font color=#00000> *<font color=#990000> Gear Vendor OD<font color=#000000> *<font color=#990000> Bullhide spray-in Line <font color=#000000> *
<font color=#000000> *<font color=#990000> GPS-Garmin III+ w/Laptop Software <font color=#000000> *<font color=#990000> Jordan Ultima 2020 T-brake <font color=#000000>*<font color=#990000> 2k Komfort 24' 5'er - 9. 7 GVWR <font color=#000000> *
<font size=-2>... Keep on Rammin'! You'll love the way it feels!! :D ... <font size=-1>
 
rraulston
A little refrigerant is all you need.
Also its a good idea to clean the buggs and debris from the condenser coil.
Tim

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1996 3500 87K. auto,3. 54,Ext. cab.
K&N air
Truck looks just like the truck on left side of page 6 issue 31.
1981 Mercedes 300D Non-turbo 174K miles
1987 blue phord 2810 tractor 456 hours.
 
If your rig takes R-12 use R-409a(FX-56) as drop in replacement. It is compatible with the mineral oil in compressor and won't cost too much. If R-134a stay with that as compressor oil is sythetic. Don't put R-134a in a compressor that has mineral oil in it, they are not compatible. Of course, if you need gas, find and fix the leak 1st or you'll be starting over when it leaks out again.
Wherever you get it fixed at: Fix leak,leak test, pull vacuum evacuation, then recharge.

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99 2500SLT,QC,4x4,6-spd, 3. 5 lsd,LB,Camper group , Jacobs E-Brake, Autometer Pyro & Boost guages, Rhino liner, Airlift 5000 airbags, Redline hitch,Tekonsha brake control,Diamomd plate bed rails,Dodge grill & splash guards.
 
<<While 134a is not as good as the old stuff, I've never had a complaint with my '99. Maybe it doesn't get as hot here in Phx as other places in the US... >>





GEE guys I must have the same trouble here in the middle of the

Mojave desert, usually only 110 to 115 deg in the summer

134a does the job but I am not an expert????
 
Hmmm... . even with Houston's astronomical latent heat loads (nice 100 degF and 100% relative humidity summers - well, almost :( ), my wife complains that the R134a system in our truck will freeze her out. I'd get your system checked out.



Rusty
 
I think everyone has U on the right track... I had the same problem since my truck was new... so last year (truck was 2yrs old) I decided to see how much of a charge it had. . ( I was thinking that it was overcharged... ) it only had 1/2 of 134a... I vacc. . and charge and she's bee great ever since... (did I feel dumb for not do that sooner since I have all the equipment. . ) If you can't find a leak try using 134a with Dye or adding Dye and using a black light. . (just remember th Dye travels with the oil. . so you will have to run the system to get the Dye to travel thoughout the system. . ) Use a black light to find the Dye...

The amount of a full charge should be listed on a tag under the hood. . if its missing ask here. . and someone can post it for U. .

Good Luck

Bryan
 
the 134a is not as efficient as r-12, however, they make up for this with very large radiators to vent the heat. The systems are much larger and hold much more coolant than the older r-12 versions. So before everyone goes ragging the EPA again for ruining the world, it's just the specific heats that are different, they still accomplish the same task, and blow the same cold air. In fact look in a service manual on how to check it... same as the old r-12 systems temperature wise. Just a little different way of getting there first.



My 02 will freeze anyone out, especially on the highway where you get max heat ventilation.
 
Originally posted by Rman

the 134a is not as efficient as r-12, however, they make up for this with very large radiators to vent the heat. The systems are much larger and hold much more coolant than the older r-12 versions. So before everyone goes ragging the EPA again for ruining the world, it's just the specific heats that are different, they still accomplish the same task, and blow the same cold air. In fact look in a service manual on how to check it... same as the old r-12 systems temperature wise. Just a little different way of getting there first.



My 02 will freeze anyone out, especially on the highway where you get max heat ventilation.



I think 134a got it's bad rap from people converting older systems to it. 134a works fine in a system designed for it.



Matt
 
the new freon is more picky to amount in the system. When I got my truck it would blow cold at low rpm's but at highway rpm's it would warm up/less cold. I put theromater in vent to verify. My buddy at th airconditioning shop took and ran it at highway rpm and dialed in the amount to the coldest at that rpm.

Lou
 
We have all three brands of diesel. chevy ford and dodge. The dodge a/c units are a joke compared to chevy and ford. We just got the new mega cabs and they dont cool down inside untill you drive down the road for a hour. Its to bad the new mega cabs are really nice trucks but no one wants to drive them as the a/c suck when it is really hot. Dr. Z has no idea when it comes to airconditioning. Probably not that hot in Germany. The mega cabs have alot more room inside and alot smaller a/c units than ford or chevy.
 
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