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why not adjust valves with a dial indicator??

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When i worked in the copper mines in AZ, i tuned CAT 3516 engines. We used a dial indicator to check lash. This was a top notch set up. I could get ALL the valves dead on. There was no subjective feeling with a feeler guage. So i decided to adjust my rams valves today. i used a dial indicator with magnetic base. 5 and 6 were rough. I needed a smaller guage, but the rest were fine. I spent most of the time finding a suitable place for base to sit and getting that stupid timing pin out. I used a long ratchet and turned the engine over from the damper with right hand and pushed pin with the left. Now check this out. You can actually get screwed up if you dont make sure the rocker isnt centered. they slide about a 16th or so. Stick your feeler guage in there and slide the rocker. Tight... . then loose. So how do you know??? What a pain. Ill now work on a dial indicator set up specially for rams. Ill let you know on the progress. Ray

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1996 3500 diesel 5 speed 2wd BONE STOCK 20 mpg
 
Sounds a bit extreme. Also due to the fact that the rockers have axial movement how would one get consistant reads? I've thought about this indicator thing on valve lash and it just seems like overkill. Locating TDC with an indicator is one thing but valve adjustment seems a bit much. Just my opinion.

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9535hundred
 
I have been shown recently by some Tdr members how to adjust valves myself with a feeler gauge without removing any timing pins and i did it and gained a ton of power and my MPG increased vastly, i didn't know what i was missing. It only took me about 30 minutes to do them all. This site is great, and I appreciate all the help i have recieved, it probably would have cost me $150. 00 to have this done somewhere. #ad
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1995 Dodge 2500 SLT Reg. cab 4x4 Auto,Long Bed 12 valve, 3. 5 rears, K&N Air filter 112,000 miles Anti lock brk sys, 305/70-16/Mickey Thompson Alum. wheels,Leer cap, Nerf Bars, Black/Black C/D Player Overload springs, Reese Hitch, T. C. Lockup switch, Cats dead, straight pipe.
 
rraulston, Not to start a "fire", but I would rather be driving it than leaning over a d**n indicator... I do that too much at work! The guy that said the back ones would be a PITA is so right, it's bad enough with a feeler gauge!

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9535hundred
 
rraulston,this is a copy of a E-mail that I sent to 2shus. It is the way I do the valves and he wrote back that did it this way and it worked great for him too.

2shus, I just don't want you pay someone to do this. It really is easy. My cousin works for Cummins and this is the way he says they do the valves. The best thing about it is you don't have to find that little plastic plunger under the fuel pump, that if you break it off in there it can be a real pain . So here we go.
You'll need the following tools:
19 mm end wrench for the fake valve cover
15 mm end wrench to remove the 6 individual covers
15 mm socket and 1/2" ratchet to turn the vibration damper
Stubby straight screw driver
14 mm end wrench for the tappet lock nuts.
Exhaust Valves . 020 clearance
Intake Valves . 010 clearance Cool Engine, Not HOT
Firing Order 1-5-3-6-2-4
Ready Just do it. . We will start with #1. Crank engine around with ratchet wrench and 15mm socket on one of the bolts that holds the pulley on the vibration damper, until # 5 (the next in the firing order) intake valve goes down and just starts to come back up,STOP! Adjust # 1 intake and exhaust valves at this time. Make sure the feeler gage just sides under the rocker arm smooooothly after you have retightened the lock nut. If its too tight or too loose, try to loosen the lock nut and the adjuster together until the lock nut is loose and then adjust the screw either tighter or looser and retighten them together again. It will take a little time to catch on to it, but you will. The intake valve is in the front and the exhaust is in the back on each cylinder.
Now, turn the engine over until # 3 ( the next in the firing order) intake valve goes down and just starts to come back up,STOP. Adjust # 5 the same way you did # 1.
Now turn engine over until # 6 (next in order) intake valve starts back up,STOP adjust # 3. Just follow the firing order back to # 1. Thats it, Stick a fork in ya, you're DONE.

Dave Gruver Rusty Mule



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Rusty Mule 97 3500 5 Speed Dually 68,000miles 25,000# POP-UP HITCH, CAT GUTTED "MULE HAULER"
 
Chad Sheets had a post on the 24V about using the dial indicator. He said that's how he did his 24V. I haven't tried it yet but may. Only thing is, usually the valves aren't that far out and the dial indicator forces you to adjust all the way off to get a zero. I agree with the extreme part cause when you get to the #6 it may be a PITA.
 
I used an indicator to adjust the valves on my '95 after messing with feeler gages. I adjusted a couple with the feeler gage and then checked them with the indicator and as I recall there was . 002 to . 004 difference, (looser with the indicator) probably due to the wear spot on the rocker. I finished with the indicator. My '98 is due for the adjustment and I too will spend the time to make a mount for the indicator. I don't consider it overkill if it gets you closer to exact.

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'98 12-valve CC 2500 4x4 5-speed,Espar Heater,
Ultimate Bedliner, Turnover Gooseneck Hitch,
Bright-Box, Rancho RS9000
Combo Gage
 
Raulston
Dave gruver is right except there is an easier way to move the crank shaft. Just use a 22 milimeter socket and breaker bar on the front pulley nut on the alternator. crank it clock wise when you are standing in front of the engine looking toward the cab. If you crank it the wrong way the belt just slips and the engine wont turn over. Good luck -been there done that.

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95 slt, reg cab, 2wd, auto, BD exhaust brake, primelok fuel filter relocator, K&N air filter, Cat sleeping in garage by fire, TST 230-605 fuel plate, Bill Kondolay modified trans, 98,000 miles going strong. "Who says six in a row don"t go?
 
I'm giving this a shot myself for the first time. Thanks for the good directions. Can someone tell me the correct torque on the valve cover bolts?

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Keith
'98 2500 QC SLT+ LWB,12v, 5 speed, black, 3. 54, Warn winch & brush guard, PIAA chrome 520's,diamond truck box, stainless rockerpanels,diamond bed rails, spray in bedliner, hitch reciever, 33 BFG MT's, Reese 5th wheel hitch, Banks Stinger Plus, pillar mount boost & EGT,muffler & TSR gone, Uniden CB
Komfort 26' 5th wheel
'99 Durango
 
When I read this post it reminded me about a tool out in my garage that has been sitting there for about 25 years. Back in the 60's there was a device known as a P&G Valve Gapper. For those of you who are not familiar with this it is a dial indicator mounted on a collar that can be fitted with a variety of adapters to slip onto the valve spring retainer and contact the rocker arm to measure the gap. They made models that were engine specific but they also made a universal kit in a wood box with an assortment of adapters to fit all the popular car and light truck engines. This is the one I have.

Reading this post has given me an idea that this P&G gapper might just be adaptable to the B engine. I think I will dig it out and try to do just that. If it works out I will let everyone know and someone might see a market for such a device if it could be manufactured at a reasonable cost. One advantage to this tool is that it fits completly onto the spring retainer/rocker arm and this makes it a lot more compact than useing a dial indicator with a base attached.


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92 D250 Auto Trans-Currently stock except for TCI special torque convertor. Now adding 16cm turbo housing, complete 4" exhaust, tachometer, pyrometer, and transmission temperature gauge. Injectors in the near future.
Also have 1984 Volvo D260 with inline 6 diesel made by Volkswagen.
 
The dial system works pretty fast once you have the jig. There is one mechanic I worked with that just has a piece of machined 1" plate x 3" square with a post for the dial. Instead of a magnet he just sets the block flat on the head and it stays put.
FYI There are dials, not expensive either, that have the plunger coming out the back instead of the bottom for under the dash cowl.

J-eh

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Jason Hoffman
Lil' Mack - 89 D250LE 5 Spd 3. 54 LSD Reg Cab. K&N,"tweaked pump", BD Injectors, Banks Pyro/Boost, 3. 5" Exst tail section straight. E&M Custom seats. Bosch H4, PIAA 80W/80W HdLites. 100W Drv,55W Fogs.
237,500 miles (380,000 Kms) 7850 Hrs. Cummins Power Booster member.
The Original Turbo Diesel

Lil' Mack Pics/March 2001
 
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