Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Why won't lift pump run?

[dslmacdown]

I think the lift pump won't run because of the crank sensor. When you bump the starter the ECM thinks the engine failed to start and runs the lift pump for a about 30 secs. With a bad crank sensor the ECM doesn't know the engine is cranking and doesn't run the lift pump. As for a manual I bought a Haynes manual for about $15. It works well but the factory one is far more detailed and through. For bleeding the injectors you may not have to do that, but if you do crack at least two lines the easiest to do are #1 and #3. Replacing the crank sensor is a PITA but fairly straight forward. Good luck.



MAC

 

[KWentling]

MAC. What you said does make sense. Hope you are right. I looked at a Haynes or Chilton book for $18 at Cheecker,don't remember which. Looked kind of weak after having the factory book, but would beat nothing for sure. I found the 24-valve supplement book for my service manual from Chrysler for $20 and it's ordered.



Kim

 

[KWentling]

Crank sensor has been replaced. (It was a PIA) I compared the ohms across the old and new and they were the same. Still nothing. No lift pump after bumping the starter. I cranked it over a half a dozen times and bumped the starter again and still no lift pump. I guess now I'm down to looking for a bad ground. If anyone can direct me to them, please do. This sure makes me appreciate the simplicity of my 12-valve.

KIm

 

[KWentling]

Cleaned about 6 or 7 grounds and still have nothing. I did some reading and have come across mention of a tone wheel on the crank that the crank position sensor reads. This is on the pre 2000 years. But this makes it sound like the sensor is behind the starter and the tone wheel is between #5 and #6. It would seem that the sensor I repalced is the cam position sensor. I gather that a '95. 5 has both a crank and cam sensor? Any one with a service manual confirm this?

Kim

 

[KWentling]

Update: Problem is found, and it isn't good news. There is a sensor behind the starter. Removed the starter and pulled the sensor out. The end of it is damaged. Rolled the engine over and half of the tone wheel is loose. I picked up a new sensor at Cummins. Looks like I should have gotten an oil pan gasket too. I've got the oil draining now. Not sure if I can drop the pan far enough to get to the bolts or not. My service manual calls for removing the transmission to remove the oil pan. The truck needs a new pan, because the drain hole had been damaged from the previous owner. We put an EZ Change drain plug on it with silicone to stop the leak. That has worked good. I don't want to pull the transmission if it can be avoided. If not, then it will get a new pan. At least the transmission is an auto which is probably lighter, but still have the transfer case to mess with. Anyone have any ideas?

Kim