2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Will bad starter contacts drain the battery?

[Rob Thomas]

I'm having an intermittent battery draining issue. I have a new battery (also was doing this on 2 different batteries). Two mornings ago the battery was dead, messed around all day trying to locate the problem, nothing conclusive, put all back together.



Next morning (5* outside) started perfect. Following morning (slightly warmer) dead as a door nail, (this has beeen going on for several weeks) I am lost at this point.



I read some back posts on this, and saw some saying the starter contacts may be the cause. I have 105,000 miles on the original contacts, the started sounds/works fine.



Any help/ideas are much appreciated.





Rob

 

[BillGotthelf]

I doubt that it could be the starter contacts. Even if the starter relay stuck the battery drain would melt the insulation on the wires. You may want to check out the intake heater. I heard of a bad relay that kept cycling them on and off in cold weather. By the way I just changed the starter contacts and plunger on my 99 with 110,000 miles. I used Larry B's set. One of the contacts was worn paper thin and probably would not have lasted very much longer.

 

[JohnE]

I'm thinking a stuck relay somewhere. Those are tough to track down.



A simple one, are the brake lights staying off?



I'd say dome light, but I've left mine on too many times to count on one hand and it wasn't enough to cause a no start.

 

[Rob Thomas]

Yes, the brake lights are staying off, as well as the dome light (and all others for that metter). I will disconnect the grid heaters tonight, and for the next few nights, see if that has any effect on it. The bad parts is it's intermittent. I used a multi-meter in series with the positive battery post and positive lead, and it showed 11. 9mA, of course that night the battery was fine.



I think I will just pull the 50a battery fuse tonight, that should tell me if the problem is before the PDC or not, then go from there.

 

[bmoeller]

Have you checked your light in the glove box? Have heard of them staying on before when it isn't supposed to be.

 

[powerwagon440]

i have this same prob on my 93!! PITA!!! and i cant find what the heck is going on!! bought a brand new optima battery and it was dead over night!! not very happy!

 

[ROADWARRIOR]

Did you mean 11. 9mA when you stated 11. 9ml??? Was that with the hood light off?



Dan

 

[Rob Thomas]

Originally posted by ROADWARRIOR

Did you mean 11. 9mA when you stated 11. 9ml??? Was that with the hood light off?



Dan

Oops, yea, mA, and yes, hood light off.

 

[csevers]

I have an idea check the power seat switches I have noticed mine sticking lately and I almost never use the power seat (unless some one moves my seat) and or power windows they maybe your draw.



Good Luck

Craig

 

[Rob Thomas]

I think this problem is going to be a real PITA. I noticed my power locks have been acting up for the past 3 days (get back to this in a minute).



My heated seats have been inop for over a year now, last week tracing that problem, it was found that the connection behind the relay in the junction block is toast, (I have heard at least one other case like this). I was able to convince the relay to get contact by pushing it to one side sorta hard, and the heat would work, as soon as I let go of the relay, it quit working. That relay is not installed at this time.



Back to the locks..... the last 3 days they have been intermittenly working, they will always work with the keyless remote, but only part time with the interior switch (either side). So I opened the fuse cover today, yanked the relay, reinstalled it... . nothing, pushed it to one side (like I did on the heated seat relay), and whola, they worked, let go of the relay, nada.



The big problem is this..... the front of the junction block, does not match up with the rear (not a "fuse" block anymore , dang it) so altering the connections is pretty much out, so a new block will have to be installed I can see, and as near as I can tell, the dash will need to be removed, yippie.



Not sure if this is part or all of the battery drain problem as of yet, but more testing today and I will have a better idea.





Rob

 

[ntillm01]

Rob,



"Windows... always work with the keyless remote"

Is that an aftermarket remote? I don't understand how the remote fob works the windows otherwise. Just door locks and panic horn.



I've seen the inside of a modern junction block and you're right, there ain't no fixin nothing inside there. Several layers of buss-bars that turn into terminals and pins layered with plastic wafers. The bad thing is, when you're losing terminal tightness like you're describing, you get to replace the whole thing.

 

[Rob Thomas]

Sorry, I meant "locks", not windows.







Rob

 

[Rob Thomas]

Ok, now I know where I got the "windows" term from. If I tweak the power window breaker (yes window breaker, not power lock fuse) to one side, the locks will work, WTH? This is a real mess for sure. I called DC and the cost of a new junction block is about $80, so in a week or so when it arrives, I'll get to see if that fixes the battery drain trouble, at least my seats and locks will work.



It looks like it should take about 5 minutes to replace, 3 screws and a few plug-in connectors, not including the dash tear-out and replace, ugg.



Rob