Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Will the real oil presure number please stand up.

[Jfam]

For the past couple of years the oil pressure in my '94 had (apparently) been dropping. I replaced the sender unit TWICE with no change, so I figured worn bearings, etc. Recently I decided to restore the old girl and started out with sealing all oil leaks. The technician told me he replaced the oil sender as part of the job and that it was leaking internally. Lo and behold the pressure returned to withing normal range (~40 pounds at cruising speed). Total cost of sealing leaks was $700! BTW I asked him to check the KDP and do the fix if necessary. Maybe I should have insisted, but he said it was solid as a rock and did not do the fix... .

 

[Cumminsman12]

You should have put a manual Oil Pressure gauge on it. My dads 98 12 valve kept "losing" pressure, or so it said on the gauge. He put the manual gauge on it and lo and behold he had about 45 at an Idle and about 60 at highway speeds. That might have saved you $700 dollars unless you were annoyed with them.

 

[GAmes]

Maybe I should have insisted, but he said it was solid as a rock and did not do the fix...

Now you need for him to put in writing that he will repair the damage at no expense to you if it does fall out and causes damage. It would have taken him 5 extra minutes and a washer if part of the job was replacing the front seal and the cover gasket.

 

[Jfam]

I guess I should have mentioned that the "seal" job was much more than just the oil pressure sender: Remove power steering pump and vacuum pump and re-seal vacuum pump, adjust valves and replace valve cover gaskets, replace front timing cover gasket, replace transmission dipstick tube grommet, change oil. total labor @ $55 per hour = $504. Total parts = $226. 88. Engine was also thoroughly cleaned with brake parts cleaner and pressure wash. I am happy. It was cheaper than a dealer, though still not a super deal. Next step is some body work, then bring her up to 400 hp. Yes, I thought more about the KDP and I will mention to owner of garage.

 

[hsmith]

I can't believe he had the front cover off and did not do the kdp repair. Really a dumb move.

 

[radixr]

If you find you still have some oil drips after all that work, try placing an old sock around the oil breather tube. That's what I had to do to finally eliminate all oil dripping.

 

[shoalsgary]

If you find you still have some oil drips after all that work, try placing an old sock around the oil breather tube. That's what I had to do to finally eliminate all oil dripping.

and the sock doesn't get oil-soggy and drip?

 

[shoalsgary]

The way I understand it, the oil pressure "gauge" isn't really a gauge but rather a glorified idiot light. The sensor supposedly is a switch that makes the "gauge" register 40 pounds when the switch/sensor provides the "gauge" a ground. When the switch/sensor senses oil pressure under 40 psi, it opens and the "gauge" drops to about a 10psi "reading". A mechanical gauge is the solution. Don't worry unless your oil light comes on. It won't do that until you get more than four quarts low!

 

[GAmes]

That might be true with the '98s and newer, but my gauge fluctuates pressure according to engine temp and how new the oil is. I have a mechanical gauge and the fluctuations match.

 

[shoalsgary]

I think you're onto something. My o3 definitely was a faux gauge, but my 96 fluctuates with oil level and temperature, so I suspect it's a real gauge. But then my 94 never fluctuated at all. Sat on 40, no matter what.