Wind Deflector/Wing: MPG Gain?

[JWChessell]

No, I haven't. I've thought of that and intended to do it before this last trip, but ran out of time to do the work. And, I can only move it about 12" farther aft. If I haul with the trailer again -- but it won't be for awhile -- I try it.

 

[hhranch]

What size is your defletor? I wonder if that makes a difference. Are you pulling a fiftgh wheel.

 

[JWChessell]

See picture above, posted on 12-14-06.

 

[ColemanR]

I found this thread interesting as I purchased a tall canopy to help get the air over my trailer I dont know how much it helped but I have put approx 125000miles on my 06 and I just purchased a new trailer 2ft longer and 1ft taller but a v nose instead of flat nose first tank I gained 75 miles to my fill thought my gauge was off I have averaged 1. 25 to 2 mpg sence the new trailer no other changes Randy

 

[kc6tec]

for the small mpg gain they are just an expensive bug shield.

 

[Grizzly]

I have a Taylor wing for sale if you are interested. I sold my dually and vette and bought this lifted 2500. am also selling my 5th wheel too.

I want to know some information about your 5th wheel.

 

[BElting]

JW

I just read your thread on your experience with the wing. I am also in the process of trying to fasten something to my vehicle or trailer to help with less drag. I have a question first in the size of your trailer. What is the width? I have a 5'x10' cargo trailer and have noticed even with the cab high shell and the width narrower than the truck, there is still a noticeable amount of increase in boost pressure when I pulled the trailer empty.



The information I have been gathering seems to show a very close distance between the tow vehicle and the trailer for maximum benefit. It seems 30" between the two is what is coming to mind. The distance between my tailgate to the trailer is approx. 4 feet. Since I have to travel without my shell, I am looking into making a cone for the front of the trailer. I am not sure how it will turn out, but as a friend of mine told me, you don't know how well it works till you test it. I will report my findings in a couple of months. I will be heading east,approx. 7k miles round trip,to visit family and friends.



Your situation might be better suited for something on the trailer in addition to the wing on the shell. Also the angle of the trailer, is it level? I believe slightly higher in the front to the back is also beneficial. Any decrease in drag would be very beneficial in light of the high fuel prices. Barry.

 

[SnoKing]

If you read the report above, when he switched to a V nose trailer, he picked up 75 per tank of fuel. SNOKING

 

[BElting]

Snoking

When who switched to a V-nose trailer, JW?

 

[TowPro]

Sorry Chuck, I missed your reply and I updated my Sig. I have a long bed truck. There are some towing Titaniums with sliders that say they never have had to move the hitch.



Tons of information on the titaniums at http://www.titaniumrvowners.com/

What type of hitch do you have for the Titanium using a short bed truck?? It doesn't appear that you have an extended pin box. Do you have a sliding hitch for tight turns?? If you have photos of your hitch, I would like to see them.

Thanks, Chuck

 

[SnoKing]

Snoking

When who switched to a V-nose trailer, JW?

Read post #25 above. SNOKING

 

[BElting]

Snoking,

I appreciate the clarafication but I was referring to post #19, JW, and not post # 25, RColeman. I too have a flat nose trailer, not a V-nose trailer. Barry.

 

[JWChessell]

Barry Elting:



Sorry it has taken a few days to reply. Here are the dimensions and distances. The trailer sits level or almost level when towing, depending on how heavy I load the front end. The front end of the trailer is 94" wide and 91" high, measured from the bottom of the frame to the top of the roof; the area is 59. 4 sq ft. The top (roof) of the trailer is approx 8'10" from the ground. The tongue is 51" long, from the center of the ball to the front wall of the trailer. The distance from the center of the truck tailgate to the front wall of the trailer is 61". The distance from the center of the wind deflector, (as if you drew an X across the front of the wind deflector, from the four corners) when raised in the towing position, to the front wall of the trailer is approximately 10'7". The deflector can be moved only an additional 6-1/2" to the rear, without cutting and re-welding -- in essence re-making the metal frame that supports the deflector. If I were to do that, the maximum I could move the deflector farther to the rear is approx 18" -- otherwise I could not lay it flat when not towing.

 

[Trucker_Mike]

Sort of reviving this thread, looking at getting a used Trail-Eze II deflector for $250 CAN. I have a 2014 Ram 3500 DRW and drive 3500 miles/wk hauling new travel trailers (50 % bobtail). Not so much interested in the bug benefits, but hope for any long term fuel savings. If it helps with stability, bonus, but with a 118 gal slip tank it already handles quite well.

One consideration in deflection is that the less the gap between the fairing and trailer, the better. Look at some transports and the cabs are faired almost "to" the trailer, have fairings between wheels, flush hub caps on wheels, and more transports are installing folding fairings on the rear doors to reduce the resulting suction drag. They do make a difference, combined with smart driving habits a transport can reduce annual fuel consumption by as much as $30k per year.

Perhaps just a front fairing isn't enough to realize any major savings, however recently spoke withsomeone that swore he saved a tank of fuel just between Canada and Florida after installing hisTrail-Eze II.

 

[MARK JAQUITH]

I have had my Areo Wingmaster for a little over 720000 miles and have always had a gain of between 1.5 and 2 MPG.plus the stability-no bugs on rig.

You will need to take the time to adjust them properly or they do not work.

 

[rynosback]

Interesting. Thanks

 

[rynosback]

Sort of reviving this thread, looking at getting a used Trail-Eze II deflector for $250 CAN. I have a 2014 Ram 3500 DRW and drive 3500 miles/wk hauling new travel trailers (50 % bobtail). Not so much interested in the bug benefits, but hope for any long term fuel savings. If it helps with stability, bonus, but with a 118 gal slip tank it already handles quite well.

One consideration in deflection is that the less the gap between the fairing and trailer, the better. Look at some transports and the cabs are faired almost "to" the trailer, have fairings between wheels, flush hub caps on wheels, and more transports are installing folding fairings on the rear doors to reduce the resulting suction drag. They do make a difference, combined with smart driving habits a transport can reduce annual fuel consumption by as much as $30k per year.

Perhaps just a front fairing isn't enough to realize any major savings, however recently spoke withsomeone that swore he saved a tank of fuel just between Canada and Florida after installing hisTrail-Eze II.

Great searching and reading old threads.

 

[SnoKing]

Towing slower cost nothing but an hour a day and will return greater results than anything else. With most users claiming no increase in MPG and one or two claiming increases, I would follow the no crowds advice to save your money, unless you want an expensive bug deflector! There have been reports on RV.net of increase stability in cross winds with 5th wheel. However stability is usually not a 5th wheel issue. SNOKING

 

[MARK JAQUITH]

I have been running a Wingmaster for a little over 720000 miles and have gotten 1 to 2 MPG once you get it properly adjusted-but it takes some playing with. Also the stability is a great plus.

Paid for itself.

 

[SnoKing]

I have been running a Wingmaster for a little over 720000 miles and have gotten 1 to 2 MPG once you get it properly adjusted-but it takes some playing with. Also the stability is a great plus.

Paid for itself.

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And you are sure that you did not change your drive style? Snoking