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Window no worky!

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90 died, won't start

Clutch Slave Rod Length on Getrag

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RSchwarzli

TDR MEMBER
The driver side power window on the 90 is not being very kind! The window will go down, but it will not go up.



I took the door panel off and the motor seems OK, still has a good hum, but the window will not go up by the motor. You can lift the window back up by hand, but that just tends to make me believe that the regulator and motor teeth are not meshing.



Any thoughts:confused: Do I need to drill out the rivets and see or has someone experieced this before.



Thanks.



Robert
 
My drivers window stuck in the down position and I thought I was in for a $ job. I sprayed silicon down both of the side window tracks and it works great now. I spray them once a year now. This has worked on other vehicles as well and is a good practice for motor and track wear IMHO. Hope this works.
 
I've been having a problem like this. It looks to me like the regulator is rusting up, probably because the window-wipe weatherstrip is shot and letting water run down into the door. I've had to pop the panel off and lube the pivot points of the regulator a couple times, and then it sort of works. I spied an LE in a junkyard a few weeks ago, looked at the regulators and they were rusty-looking like mine. This is probably common as these trucks age.
 
Sometimes the wiring harness coming through the door hinge corrodes or gets pinched. My friend's 1990 would go down fine but would only go up with the door 1/2 to 3/4 open
 
The little gears in the motor are broken. You can buy a gear set for that motor for fairly cheap. The hardest part is taking the window motor out because if its never been taken out before it will be riveted in.



When you take it out be sure and grease the sliders, it will help your motor live longer.



Chris
 
Thanks for the response! Where can the little gear sets be purchased?



Thanks!



Robert

They are still available through the dealer last time I needed one. You can also avoid removing the regulator from the door by using a hole saw with the pilot bit shortened up to drill acces holes through the door sheetmetal to remove the motor by itself. If you do pull the complete regulator beware of the spring,



Bob
 
Called the dealer. Said that there is a seal and gear kit available. Cost $140! :--):{



Is this the right part? As I am also not fully understanding, is this the regulater gear, motor gear, or a gear that connects those two?:confused:



Thanks!



Robert
 
That's it. It is the gear for the motor only. Once you have the motor out there is one screw that holds the seal on. Remove that and clean out all the brokrn pieces and old grease. The replacement uses springs instead of plastic to cushion shock loads.
 
The dealer is a last resort for me. Some of their prices are just insane. I'll pay more for a higher quality product, but within reason.



Chris
 
Thanks! I will look into that!



Here is Canada, we do not have Autozone, Pep Boys, etc. That is why most use the dealer.



Fortunatelly we do have NAPA!
 
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