Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
I just got back from pushing and check of wire and connectors. Still no go found two fuzable links at the dr side batt down to a bolt on connection . Tested them with a test led light point pos to bolt clamp to neg terminal both lit light so they must be ok . Have plenty of batt power , tested with the trip button and eng switch , looked like it read check then 950 waited then changed to 999 . Did it again same then went blank then a small dot almost a squar moved around in a random it seemed then all the guages started to move including the speedo it whent to max not sure of the tach as I was so taken with the spedometer that I only saw it move back from one quater of movement. All the guages seem to work. Thanks for the information on the window . Ill try that later after one more try , looked in the book couldent find any mention on 950 0R 999 hope some one knows what it means and will post here . Again thanks for your help . Ron in Louisville (drive way)
Just got back from picking up wife at work her car. Nathan I have good batteries and full charg on them checked the fuzable links two next to drivers side batt along side of pos. down to bolt connection both check out hot. Guages whent crazy on test with trip button pushed with key in start position. Guess ill wait till am and then see what I can do . May have to call the hook and drag it to dealer, hope not. thanks for your help Ron in Louisville (driveway)
Evan glad your back always read your informative posts , I think you are right on the switch as the wire that fed the exhaust brake was the one that came out of the stering column black with ornge tracer 18 guage ,will the switch and related parts need to be replaced ? Thanks for your help Ron in Louisville Ky (driveway)
I posted a reply to you about the wire I used black with ornge tracer from steering column and forgot to ask if this fault could stop the air conditioner blower motor too . Just before truck quit noted that air was not working. Thanks for your help . Ron in Louisville Ky (drive way)
Nathan I used type of tap that just crimps on to the wire and is closed like a box . I just pryed it open and took it off sealed with goop small amount to cover small indents in cover. will look at all suggestions and see if some salution is possible . again thanks for your help . Ron in Louisville Ky(driveway)Originally posted by nathanbush
If you have that orange wire wired back correctly, it should start. If you did not blow any fuses, nor powered back into the switch, the switch should be OK. Are you sure that the wire is back in place correctly crimped or soldered? You can have someone turn the ignition switch to start and check the wire with a voltage meter to see if the juice is coming from the switch. I do not have a service manual (shame on me), otherwise I could be of more help.
Thanks for the reply Swamp rat could be a combnation of switch and bad wire I thik that I might go around the tap area with a jumper (wire and two straight pins to check that out too late now its after one here in Ky land . again thanks for your help . Ron in Louisville KY (drive way)
Thanks Even I will check and let you know how it comes out and will use the connection like you said above . I will have to find out how to access the igntion switch and start on that this asap . I printed above and will follow it again thanks for your help and all the other members too . Ron in Louisville (drive way)Originally posted by Evan A. Beck
So you have your exhaust brake fed off the BK/OR wire coming out of the steering column? First of all, change the feed to the exhaust brake to the 10 gauge Dark Blue wire. Don't use a scotch-lock... Solder the wire for a more positive connection. Check the BK/OR wire, and make sure it is ok.
There are two connectors going into the back of the igntion switch. One is a 7-pin flat, and the other is a 4-pin flat. Make sure thse are ok, and all the pins are in good shape. In the flat-7 connector, there is a 12V+ constant hot. Check for power here. It will be a RED 10 gauge wire. Same goes for the Pink/Black wire--12V+ constant hot. If this checks out ok, then you know there is power getting to the ignition switch.
The BK/OR wire from the ignition switch feeds fuses 2, 3, 7, 18, and circuit breaker 1. All these are in the in-cab fuse box.
Fuse 2: 10A Feeds climate controls & heated mirror switch
Fuse 3: 10A Feeds ABS control
Fuse 7: 10A Feeds backup lamps, DRL module (if equipped)
Fuse 18: 10A Feeds airbag control module
CB 1: 20A Feeds power windows & locks
If the BK/OR wire is not connected, all the above functions will not work. THis would explain your power window problem. Check the locks too.
Check this stuff, and get back to us!
but hope full. P. S forgot have power to doorlocks head lights inside lights helo and instrments . ill try not to set off the air bag.worked like a charm on my truck the connector is in the lower middle of the door after removing the pannal without specal removing and with handle spoon removed it will worry about getting the yellow clips back later ,but for now the windows are up and I am feeling better thanks . The plug was a female two terminal green and white I used the pannel screws and alagator clamps for contacts . whent wrong way both times ,just reversed them up they went . I think the ground was some whare out of sight to a screw or bolt . Again thanks for your help . Ron in Louisville Ky(drive way) windows up truck down.
Even I checked the wires at the ingnition switch seven pin no power at black ornge Red 12. 57v Blue12. 38vBlack ign off -0v ign on12. 38v pink 0. 1 to 0. 3 yellow ing off 0. 36 will do this over in am as i lost part of the notes about the test. also ill see if the four pin connector wil come apart without braking . I will also recheck all connectors and the C134 connector pk/bk for hot on both sides likd ETHDEE said in his post also will see if I can get some fz relays and swap some out . The windows are up but I used a batt and wire to get them up . the locks work with power to left and right door but windows still not working. All connectors ignition switch looked clean no burn marks no smell or other sign of some thing wrong . will have a time putting the door liner back on later its just put on so I could close the door and secure the truck for the nignt . I have a switch on the clutch safty wire and ill check that too. Thanks for your help . sorry its so late but had some truble getting on and loading of pages slow with constant cut outs due to the Red Alert I guess some low life put a worm on the servers causing some slow downs . That was on CNN this after noon . Havent heard any more about it So I guess they will get it fixed if the havent already . Ron in Louisville Ky (windows up truck down)Originally posted by Evan A. Beck
So you have your exhaust brake fed off the BK/OR wire coming out of the steering column? First of all, change the feed to the exhaust brake to the 10 gauge Dark Blue wire. Don't use a scotch-lock... Solder the wire for a more positive connection. Check the BK/OR wire, and make sure it is ok.
There are two connectors going into the back of the igntion switch. One is a 7-pin flat, and the other is a 4-pin flat. Make sure thse are ok, and all the pins are in good shape. In the flat-7 connector, there is a 12V+ constant hot. Check for power here. It will be a RED 10 gauge wire. Same goes for the Pink/Black wire--12V+ constant hot. If this checks out ok, then you know there is power getting to the ignition switch.
The BK/OR wire from the ignition switch feeds fuses 2, 3, 7, 18, and circuit breaker 1. All these are in the in-cab fuse box.
Fuse 2: 10A Feeds climate controls & heated mirror switch
Fuse 3: 10A Feeds ABS control
Fuse 7: 10A Feeds backup lamps, DRL module (if equipped)
Fuse 18: 10A Feeds airbag control module
CB 1: 20A Feeds power windows & locks
If the BK/OR wire is not connected, all the above functions will not work. THis would explain your power window problem. Check the locks too.
Check this stuff, and get back to us!
