Winter Front Cover

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Well, this is my first winter with my cummins,and i need to find out what some of you are using for winter front covers. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

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2001 ETH/DEE - 2500
REG Cab 4x4
Patriot Blue/Driftwood, Rhino Liner

 

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I use a Lund winter front. It's four plexiglass panels that snap into the grill honeycomb. You can add/remove any number of them in a flash for varying temperatures. You get the required 10% open area by leaving the bumper holes open. I like them and they look good. JC Whitney for about $30.

 

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I use 2 pieces of heavy cardboard right in front of the condensor and hold them in place with one bolts at the top of each piece. I always leave about a 6" gap in the center. If it's not too cold, one will do. If you have an auto, be sure to leave the transmission cooler uncovered. I covered too much in the center one time and the fan clutch couldn't sense the temp rising to engage the fan and it almost overheated. With a gap in the center it never covers all of the condensor either. It's very effective and cheap! Craig

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97 3/4Ton, 2WD, 5SP, #11 Plate, 14 Housing, AF942M Air filter, Gutted Cat, 4"From Turbo, Airlift, Shortened Frame, Custom Bed, HEY FORDBOY POWERSTROKE THIS!

 

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FWIW, fellow TDR member, tdrmember, brought up a good point sometime ago on winter fronts; the opening should be round, 10" or larger in diameter. Reason being that if it's a squarish opening, the flex fan blades are loading and unloading evertime they travel through the blocked/unblocked opening. Additional flexing can cause the blades to break, go throught the radiator, and everthing else up front. Not good.

Ronnie

 

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Last winter had "old" fender cover I used. Still gud for this year. Have hole cut in center and the thickness/seams of it holds it in place when "slipped" between the rad and intercooler. Pretty ratty (about 25ysr old) but it works. If I ever goes EVA, will replace with ???? - fits in box, under seat, etc.

SOTSU!!
\\BF//

[This message has been edited by Ben Stair (edited 10-10-2000). ]

 

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I slip a piece of 1/4" Luan plywood between the intercooler and the radiator. You'll have to measure it yourself, but I think its about 21"x17" or so. It just slides between... in one side, and sits on the little "shelf" under the exchangers.

I also like this spot because it keeps the intercooler breathing. #ad


As far as the square vs. round hole. . I'm sure that thought is true. . BUT... I learned from my father, and him from his... All without a failure... So I don't know if its something I should start worrying about now. .
But, its good for thought, and makes sense.

I prefer to put it on the driver's side, to keep a little extra air flowing over the turbo and manifold.

I guess the question I should ask is how much of the radiator are you guys blocking? Since I'm only blocking 1/2, maybe I'm not covering enough. . maybe I could get more heat quicker. .

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98. 5' 24v 2500 Auto/3. 54 4x4 SB QC. Everything but leather. PIAA 1200's, AMSOIL dual filter relocation system, Smittybuilt Stainless Steel Nerfs, Rhino Liner(Junk), K&N air filter(For Sale)15 year AMSOIL dealer. Time permitting, Soon to include Ultra-lite Pyro,0-50lbs boost, Trans temp in the pillar. Rancho 9000's with in cab adjustment.

 

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Your intercooler is not "breathing" with anything placed between it and the radiator! This is not a problem IF you do not intend to do any towing or heavy hauling with the truck while having the blockage in the air stream. This is precisely why the Horton fan clutch system works so well! Watch those gauges. If you do not have gauges I would not recommend putting any thing in the air flow of the radiator-intercooler. I speak from experience here guys! I've even had to pull the Lund type bug screens off to get enough cooling.

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Owner: Stabco Repower, The turbo housing guys. '89, CC, SB, 5sp, 3. 54, 16cm2 housing, maxed fuel, KN, Banks exh w/muffler, Horton fan clutch, Autometer liquid filled gauges, Accessory tach option, 100% Dyna-Mat, Borgeson steering shaft, Firestone air bags, Chrysler V-twin air comp, 2. 5" lift, Rancho Shocks, Alcoa LTS wheels, BFG 255/85/R16 MTs (33. 3")

 

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I have the Lund winter fronts and have never had a problem getting hot below 40 deg. But be carefull above 40 deg even running empty

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EAT'M UP
97 2500 Club 4X4 3. 54, Forrest Green/Driftwood, LSD 5 speed, & Psychotty Air System, TST #11, 370 HP injectors, 16CM2 housing, AFC spring kit, Geno's Exhaust Blanket, TST EGT gauge & 0-60 boost gauge in A Pillar, Cat-be-gone, 4" Dynomax Bullet muffler, Crome 4" turn down, AmsOil Through out, Geno's trans filter kit, AmsOil Bypass system, Lund Winter front, Leer Cab Level Shell Driftwood , 255/85R16, Dyno'd 342 HP pre injectors & turbo housing *NRA/USPSA member and proud of it*

 

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I will make a pitch for the Gettmann Winter fronts advertised in past TDR issues. Simple nylon material that can easily be rolled up when warm temps or hard pulling require it. Stuffs down in between radiator and intercooler. Has Cummins required openning (square hole).

It is my opinion that engine cooling is not an issue in temps below freezing. Might have issues with intercooler under very hard pulls. I doudt the t-stat even opens below zero. Feel the return hose if in doudt.

I leave my winter front in until temps go above 60 degrees. I have coolant, oil, egt temps gauges. No problems running empty. I have had my clutch fan totally off (removed)for the last month now. Again... no cooling issues.

jjw
ND

 

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Stab.

Thanks for sharing your experience in the charactoristics of air flow and towing. .

Maybe I'm just tired after a long hard day of work... geez its after 7:00pm. . I gotta leave, so for that I apologies... but you sound like your the only guy who tows or learned anything in physics class.

You make very valid points, but they are not as cut n' dry as you make them seem.

YES, the Horton is a wonderful device, and if you send a blank check to everyone here... we'll all stop blocking our grills for you.

Unfortunately for most of us... some sort of air flow reducer in front of the radiator accomplishes the same basic principle at 1/100th of the cost.

Yes, I have to remove it at times... Obviously this is not as convenient as your Horton. .

In terms of Intercooler "breathing"...
Your right again. Its not really breathing because the air is forced to by-pass the area occupied by the Luan. . creating turbulance. .
Otherwise known as disturbed airflow.

Bottom Line, I don't really care one way or the other... IT fits securely, works great, and has done so since I got the truck... The rest is bonus points.
END OF STORY!

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98. 5' 24v 2500 Auto/3. 54 4x4 SB QC. Everything but leather. PIAA 1200's, AMSOIL dual filter relocation system, Smittybuilt Stainless Steel Nerfs, Rhino Liner(Junk), K&N air filter(For Sale)15 year AMSOIL dealer. Time permitting, Soon to include Ultra-lite Pyro,0-50lbs boost, Trans temp in the pillar. Rancho 9000's with in cab adjustment.

 

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Well said Deezal Man,I too feel that the simplest, cheapest solution is quite often the best. If it works don't fix it.

 

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Cam, if your ETH is anything like mine, do not even bother with a cold front. I was driving in 22 degree weather the other day and my temp was still up to 190. I do keep it plugged in whenever I get a chance though.

 

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Thanks for all the good information. This will be my first winter with my second love and i might take WyomingETH's advise and just wait and see if i'll even need one. The winters here in Del. does'nt get as cold as some other places. But,if i do,i'll have some good ideas thanks to you all . THANKS AGAIN

 

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OK Deezel Man, I just wanted everyone to know the effects of a blocked intercooler. Watch your EGTs when blocking that intercooler! Before my truck was intercooled (pre Horton) I also took my fan-clutch assembly completely off for about four months a year. Always keeping it in the truck with the BIG wrench to put it on. I had to reinstall it several times. I simply got sick of worrying about it and broke down and bought the Horton. I know many of us are of meager means and it seems to be a big expense, but it is one of THE best upgrades I've done to my truck and some others. I find it amussing, all the money some put into these trucks and do not even consider the Horton. Remember a Cummins engine not completely warmed up is not making full horsepower. Another reason for the round hole in the middle of winter fronts of the big boy trucks, is to keep the radiator temperature airflow to the thermo-clutches on the fan so thay may load and unload as needed. We have the same type only smaller on the Rams.

 

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I agree with your thoughts Stab, and I didn't mean to jump at you.

In my case, 90% of the towing I do, is done in warmer, summer months. I seldom tow anything that is heavy enough to justify having a Cummins in the first place.

Come to think of it. . I don't remember ever having the front blocked under tow conditions. Maybe that's why I'm not worried about it. .

As for finding it odd that people do not consider a Horton... I guess I'm guilty of that as well.

Believe me, its on my list. But gauges, new shocks and tires were higher on the list. Next would be injectors and maybe a computer chip. Heck, I can't even find the time to get them in. OH. . I forgot about those Rancho 9000's and my set of Alcoa's w/285's sitting in my garage. .

Your situation sounds much different in that you tow frequently and much heavier weight, not to mention where you live.

And for that, a Horton sounds like the ticket. In that you'd notice its benefits more than someone like me.

Its alot of money for what it offers. . but again, that price is better offset in your area. PA get fairly cold, but its not like Nebraska. Nor does it last as long.

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98. 5' 24v 2500 Auto/3. 54 4x4 SB QC. Everything but leather. PIAA 1200's, AMSOIL dual filter relocation system, Smittybuilt Stainless Steel Nerfs, Rhino Liner(Junk), K&N air filter(For Sale)15 year AMSOIL dealer. Time permitting, Soon to include Ultra-lite Pyro,0-50lbs boost, Trans temp in the pillar. Rancho 9000's with in cab adjustment.

 

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I have seen these covers on the big rigs in cold weather, some have em and some don't. But help me with this (really), why do you need these things?

I mean, I already have a neat device in the cooling system that bypasses the radiator if the coolant is too cool. That's the thermostat. I also have the radiator protected to about -40F. That's the glycol. Why do a want to get out in the figgin cold and install something on the front of my truck that I've got to take back off when it warms up. It seems like there is more risk in overheating with the thing on, and that's a serious problem. I just don't know what the advantage is and what it's going to do for me. Please educate me. Thanks.

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Just got my 2001 2500 QC, SB, 4x4, ETH 6-sp, 3. 54 LSD, SLT++ (everything but those lights on top of the roof), White over Silver, Tan leather. Picked it up 8/31/00.

 

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On my trucks I've found that if I don't use the winter front(or cardboard) when it's 15 degrees or colder that I don't have as much of a heater as I'd like. Running the heater on recic will bring the heater temp up but tends to fog the windows. The problem is even worse in defrost when the AC is also on,icicles hanging from my mustache while driving isn't my idea of fun. If you live in an area that doesn't see temps go below 15 much the winter front probibly isn't worth the hassle. My . 02

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks,Warn fender flairs and running boards(Play truck)95 3500,5 speed,driftwood,Banks&phscotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(work truck)

[This message has been edited by illflem (edited 10-13-2000). ]

 

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You guys may throw me under the bus for this... ... ...
I'm with Ski Bum. I drive 12 miles to work each day and it sits outside every night. My truck starts throwing heat from the floor boards between 4 and 6 miles every morning depending on temperature. Last winter we saw 0-5 degrees (F) several times (mild winter).
Unless I'm mistaken I think I'll be fine down to 20 below. It's true it may heat up faster without the cold air rushing through the radiator onto the engine, but I'm bundled up anyway. For me a cover is just one more thing to buy, install, and remove.
My $0. 00 #ad
Joe

I know the 'big boys' have covers, but I think if Dodge wanted me to have one o' them there cover thingies, they'd a put 'er there in the first danged place #ad


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White 1999, 3500 QuadCab, 6x6, Stock (so far) ISB, Automatic, Diamond Plate Running Boards and Flaps, Pac Brake, Missing Muffler, Grover Air Horns, Wants to be BOMBed.
"SHAKE, RATTLE, AND ROLL"

 

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OK, more 2 cents--sorry I missed this post earlier. Yes folks are right you don't have to have covers even into the teens, better you should plug in and warm your block first?? Yes, too much cover and you'll defeat the intercooler (a friend tried plywood) but he found first you defeat the A/C!! his cab became a terrarium!!. I wouldn't get a Dodge or other "nose bra--sorry, its what they call 'em. I naively went through 3 of 'em. Put them on at 30 degrees and they'd tear when it went down to 5 degrees. They'll also fog your finish if left on with moisture (they should call them a nose diaper-frequent changing required). I got the Lunds-I bored a hole in each panel and placed a bolt and 2 nuts through the grill to "lock" them, they've been known to walk away at 'low speed'!! If you have a stock bumper you'll get alot of air through the slots so its hard to over-cover. Hope this is still timely enough to help.

 

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If your ETH is anything like mine, don't waste the money. It is also no where as cold in Delaware as it is in Wyoming. Mine was running at 185 degrees at -2 degrees outside. Keep it plugged in though.