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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission winter road driving
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rjrkihap
TDR MEMBER
Hi
4x4 is great for snow and mud traction, however, ice is a whole different story. Once you loose traction on ice not much will help. If I know I am going to hit ice (here in Portland we have lots of freezing rain) I'll plan ahead (studded tires, sipped tires, chains) and always drive extremely defensively. Double you distance from the guy ahead of you. Cut speed especially around corners/curves. No hard acceleration or hard braking. I've seen hot shots doing 360's at 50MPH down I-90 after loosing control on a patch of black ice. Treat it just like you would if you were walking across a frozen parking lot or pond. Slower and steady always watching those ahead, to the side and behind you.
As for driving in 4x4, stick to 4 high on snowy/slippery roads. Avoid prolonged driving on dry pavement.
Just my experiences. Good luck.
Ron
4x4 is great for snow and mud traction, however, ice is a whole different story. Once you loose traction on ice not much will help. If I know I am going to hit ice (here in Portland we have lots of freezing rain) I'll plan ahead (studded tires, sipped tires, chains) and always drive extremely defensively. Double you distance from the guy ahead of you. Cut speed especially around corners/curves. No hard acceleration or hard braking. I've seen hot shots doing 360's at 50MPH down I-90 after loosing control on a patch of black ice. Treat it just like you would if you were walking across a frozen parking lot or pond. Slower and steady always watching those ahead, to the side and behind you.
As for driving in 4x4, stick to 4 high on snowy/slippery roads. Avoid prolonged driving on dry pavement.
Just my experiences. Good luck.
Ron
Just like rj said-ice is the killer. Are you towing anything? extra weight in the back end will help tremendously. 4x4 is the way to go if you are in town. It is un-necessary on the highway though. bear a little trucker logic in mind... you can drive as fast as you want on ice and snow as long as you stay straight, you just can't turn. I don't know about the "as fast as you want" part, but it is true to a point. take your turns slow and very calculated. The MOST important thing is this: THINK DAMMIT! the biggest problem I see with people in bad weather is this: they either drive like a bat out of hell as if the roads were dry, or they drive waaayyyyy too slow. either way will cause accidents. just use your head be aware and you will be fine.
To add to what they have said, smooth driving is best. You don't want to accelerate, turn or brake quickly. Most people will tell you to drive in 4X4 most of the time. Personally, I prefer to drive in 2wd until I really need 4wd. The rear end will tend to kick out more doing this but it keeps you more honest about acceleration and speed. Also, I am less likely to get my self in a situation where I will get stuck. A lot of people drive way too fast because they can still accelerate since they are running 4X4. You need to remember that this is not the hard part, stopping and turning are the hard part and 4X4 doesn't help with that.
If you are going to be doing a lot of snow driving, there are two important mods to do to your truck. The first is to get a good set of snow tires like cooper discoverer M/S. You want a tire with reasonably sized lugs(mud tires don't make good snow tires for driving on the road, their lugs are too big) and you want lots of siping. The other mod is to put some weight in the back. Anything like a steel sheet or cinder blocks or sand(can also be used to help you get unstuck) will work.
If you are going to be doing a lot of snow driving, there are two important mods to do to your truck. The first is to get a good set of snow tires like cooper discoverer M/S. You want a tire with reasonably sized lugs(mud tires don't make good snow tires for driving on the road, their lugs are too big) and you want lots of siping. The other mod is to put some weight in the back. Anything like a steel sheet or cinder blocks or sand(can also be used to help you get unstuck) will work.
This is all good advice. I am a truck driver and have never cracked it up yet in 25 years and well over 2 million logged miles in the snowbelt, even pulling empty doubles with a single-axle tractor (about as bad as it gets; that back trailer wants to come around like a whip on ice if you so much as THINK about touching your brakes!).
I love my BFG Mud-Terrains for snow. I plow with my Dodge. More siping and smaller lugs are probably better for ice, though. I personally have not had a problem on ice with the Mud Terrains and would not trade the much better mud and snow traction for whatever advantage the All Terrains might have on ice. It is just a matter of preference.
Think "weight" for traction. An empty pickup, 2wd or 4wd, is imbalanced and much more helpless and squirrely on slick roads. Especially with the weight of the Cummins up front. Add a 900 plow overhanging way out front and that is really compounded.
You must be careful about what you choose for weight in the back and where you put it and how you secure it. Keep in mind that cement blocks and similar items will become deadly 70mph missiles in the event of an accident!
I start the winter plowing season by buying a pallet of water softener salt that weighs about 1500 to 2000 pounds. I shrinkwrap the crap out of it and place it between my wheel wells being sure to block it from sliding with a 2x4 framework and a loadlock and the rubber bedmat helps tremendously, too. I keep the weight on the rear axle. I already have more than enough weight on my front axle. The farther to the front the weight is, the more it transfers to the front axle where you don't want it.
As the winter months go by, I use a few bags as needed in my home water water softener. In a bad situation, it can be used for traction under the tires. It is in plastic bags and doesn't freeze. Be sure you don't have any leaking, torn bags or you will invite corrosion.
Whatever is leftover by spring continues to be used through the summer in my softener. It is something I have to buy anyway, so buying in bulk saves me some money.
If there is an accident, it is a "soft" weight (50 or 60 pound bags) and less likely to come through my rear window with deadly intentions.
If you encounter bad roads and feel your rear wheels losing traction when you lightly goose the throttle, that is a good time to shift into 4-Hi and reduce speed and start creating maximum space around yourself. Especially to the front. The brake pedal is now your enemy. If you need to use it often and/or more than extremely lightly, you are going too damned fast and don't have enough space in front of you.
The same goes for the steering wheel to a lesser degree. It is much better to steer your way out of a situation if possible than to brake, though. The brakes will negate the steering wheel. Modern anti-lock brakes work hard to help with that, but are not foolproof.
Stay as far away from big rigs as you can! NEVER drive beside them (even in great weather), don't tailgate, and watch out for BobbyBigRigger cowboys flying up your 6. Have your wipers and washers going before they pass you and let them go around you. Keep that washer reservoir FULL with quality fluid that won't freeze. I highly recommend Rain-X treatment all year. Never underestimate the value of being able to see! Chances are you'll pass those cowboys eventually laying on their side... Same goes for the average "I own a SUV/4x4 and I'm invincible" drivers.
Our trucks are excellent for going to and from 4wd on the fly (no lockouts). Return to 2-Hi only when you have confidence in your 2wd traction. You paid for the benefits of 4wd, so use it. Your truck will let you know when 4wd is inappropriate and you will feel it. If you need 4wd, you shouldn't be going normal highway speeds anyway. If you do have lockouts, engage your hubs when entering potential poor-traction areas and slow down. You can shift an NP205 on the fly, too.
Four wheel drive will NOT improve your braking ability. It WILL improve your steering ability at slow speeds on anything except glare ice, but not as much as you wish.
On glare ice, you will have NO steering or braking ability in any wheeled vehicle. Just get that firmly fixed in your mind. SLOW DOWN and go find someplace to wait it out. Let the road crews do their thing. Then count all the 4wd vehicles that wrecked as you continue on safe and rested afterwards.
There is NO place you need to be or matter so pressing that it is worth driving on glare ice. Plain and simple. If you can't walk on it, you shouldn't be driving on it. It is extremely difficult for the best driver to control his own vehicle, 2wd or 4wd, and no one on God's earth can control the "other guy's vehicle". That is where the danger is.
You can go 100 mph on glare ice as long as there is absolutely nothing to hit or cause you to roll over, but I've never found that stretch of highway.
You may eventually find a speed where your sphincter-factor tells you that you and your truck can handle it, but what you can't handle is all the other morons. Some of those morons are in vehicles weighing 80,000 pounds and you will lose every time when they hit you. You have to be honest with yourself where your "comfort and confidence zone" is and how the traffic is behaving.
I love my BFG Mud-Terrains for snow. I plow with my Dodge. More siping and smaller lugs are probably better for ice, though. I personally have not had a problem on ice with the Mud Terrains and would not trade the much better mud and snow traction for whatever advantage the All Terrains might have on ice. It is just a matter of preference.
Think "weight" for traction. An empty pickup, 2wd or 4wd, is imbalanced and much more helpless and squirrely on slick roads. Especially with the weight of the Cummins up front. Add a 900 plow overhanging way out front and that is really compounded.
You must be careful about what you choose for weight in the back and where you put it and how you secure it. Keep in mind that cement blocks and similar items will become deadly 70mph missiles in the event of an accident!
I start the winter plowing season by buying a pallet of water softener salt that weighs about 1500 to 2000 pounds. I shrinkwrap the crap out of it and place it between my wheel wells being sure to block it from sliding with a 2x4 framework and a loadlock and the rubber bedmat helps tremendously, too. I keep the weight on the rear axle. I already have more than enough weight on my front axle. The farther to the front the weight is, the more it transfers to the front axle where you don't want it.
As the winter months go by, I use a few bags as needed in my home water water softener. In a bad situation, it can be used for traction under the tires. It is in plastic bags and doesn't freeze. Be sure you don't have any leaking, torn bags or you will invite corrosion.
Whatever is leftover by spring continues to be used through the summer in my softener. It is something I have to buy anyway, so buying in bulk saves me some money.
If there is an accident, it is a "soft" weight (50 or 60 pound bags) and less likely to come through my rear window with deadly intentions.
If you encounter bad roads and feel your rear wheels losing traction when you lightly goose the throttle, that is a good time to shift into 4-Hi and reduce speed and start creating maximum space around yourself. Especially to the front. The brake pedal is now your enemy. If you need to use it often and/or more than extremely lightly, you are going too damned fast and don't have enough space in front of you.
The same goes for the steering wheel to a lesser degree. It is much better to steer your way out of a situation if possible than to brake, though. The brakes will negate the steering wheel. Modern anti-lock brakes work hard to help with that, but are not foolproof.
Stay as far away from big rigs as you can! NEVER drive beside them (even in great weather), don't tailgate, and watch out for BobbyBigRigger cowboys flying up your 6. Have your wipers and washers going before they pass you and let them go around you. Keep that washer reservoir FULL with quality fluid that won't freeze. I highly recommend Rain-X treatment all year. Never underestimate the value of being able to see! Chances are you'll pass those cowboys eventually laying on their side... Same goes for the average "I own a SUV/4x4 and I'm invincible" drivers.
Our trucks are excellent for going to and from 4wd on the fly (no lockouts). Return to 2-Hi only when you have confidence in your 2wd traction. You paid for the benefits of 4wd, so use it. Your truck will let you know when 4wd is inappropriate and you will feel it. If you need 4wd, you shouldn't be going normal highway speeds anyway. If you do have lockouts, engage your hubs when entering potential poor-traction areas and slow down. You can shift an NP205 on the fly, too.
Four wheel drive will NOT improve your braking ability. It WILL improve your steering ability at slow speeds on anything except glare ice, but not as much as you wish.
On glare ice, you will have NO steering or braking ability in any wheeled vehicle. Just get that firmly fixed in your mind. SLOW DOWN and go find someplace to wait it out. Let the road crews do their thing. Then count all the 4wd vehicles that wrecked as you continue on safe and rested afterwards.
There is NO place you need to be or matter so pressing that it is worth driving on glare ice. Plain and simple. If you can't walk on it, you shouldn't be driving on it. It is extremely difficult for the best driver to control his own vehicle, 2wd or 4wd, and no one on God's earth can control the "other guy's vehicle". That is where the danger is.
You can go 100 mph on glare ice as long as there is absolutely nothing to hit or cause you to roll over, but I've never found that stretch of highway.
You may eventually find a speed where your sphincter-factor tells you that you and your truck can handle it, but what you can't handle is all the other morons. Some of those morons are in vehicles weighing 80,000 pounds and you will lose every time when they hit you. You have to be honest with yourself where your "comfort and confidence zone" is and how the traffic is behaving.
another 2¢
different styles for different folks… I prefer to stay in 4X4 in any marginal conditions EXCEPT when turning tightly (or without a center differential like the wife's Jeep you'll jam a driveshaft). This is because adding front end drive torque (IMHO) allows you to keep the front tracking better when it's a little slick. This is because generally due to the greater front end weight your front wheels are compressed and turning slightly faster than the rears. If you have RWAL it is also defeated in 4X4—a good thing in snow. The front pulls the truck along better. It also helps to negate the heavy front, empty bed syndrome.
Here's what you have to remember most:
1. it was said above 4WD gets you going—not stopped. Oh, and bald tires in 4WD WILL kill you!
2. NOTHING will help you stop on black ice except ice cleats—try a bulldozer on ice!! (Whopee!!)
3. 4WD will remove some of your feedback on traction. You can become unaware you're losing it until you've LOST it.
4. IN SUM: Use your 4WD—but drive as if you ARE in 2WD (see all the above) drive as if you had sponges attached to your shoes and anticipate everything earlier.
Hope this helps.
"OLD YANKEE DRIVER"
different styles for different folks… I prefer to stay in 4X4 in any marginal conditions EXCEPT when turning tightly (or without a center differential like the wife's Jeep you'll jam a driveshaft). This is because adding front end drive torque (IMHO) allows you to keep the front tracking better when it's a little slick. This is because generally due to the greater front end weight your front wheels are compressed and turning slightly faster than the rears. If you have RWAL it is also defeated in 4X4—a good thing in snow. The front pulls the truck along better. It also helps to negate the heavy front, empty bed syndrome.
Here's what you have to remember most:
1. it was said above 4WD gets you going—not stopped. Oh, and bald tires in 4WD WILL kill you!
2. NOTHING will help you stop on black ice except ice cleats—try a bulldozer on ice!! (Whopee!!)
3. 4WD will remove some of your feedback on traction. You can become unaware you're losing it until you've LOST it.
4. IN SUM: Use your 4WD—but drive as if you ARE in 2WD (see all the above) drive as if you had sponges attached to your shoes and anticipate everything earlier.
Hope this helps.
"OLD YANKEE DRIVER"
AMink
TDR MEMBER
I like the narrow tire on ice and snow that isn't too deep. You get more psi on the ground. If you do start to slide, DO NOT TOUCH THE BRAKE! Let off the throttle gently, steer into the slide, and hope that all comes out OK! I've done a 360 in my 97. My butt was puckered; I imagine the guy behind me's whole body was! If you find you aren't going to get out of a slide, look for the softest, safest place to slide into.
As mentioned: weight, smooth, 4x4=fast but not stop. Probably the biggest thing is, if you don't have to go, don't. The crazies will get you!
As mentioned: weight, smooth, 4x4=fast but not stop. Probably the biggest thing is, if you don't have to go, don't. The crazies will get you!
The all terrains are reasonably good in the snow but they aren't true snow tires. If you are getting chains, try putting them on before you need to do it for real.
As AMink mentioned, narrow tires are better for most snow situations since they bit down through better. You never want to float unless you are in really deep snow in something lighter than our trucks.
As AMink mentioned, narrow tires are better for most snow situations since they bit down through better. You never want to float unless you are in really deep snow in something lighter than our trucks.
These are all good posts,, However:
I don't think 4WD should be engaged unless forward (or backward) traction is required . On vehicles w/o a center differential the front and rear tires must be exactly the same diameter to prevent slippage between the tire and road.
If the tires are the same diameter then there is no problem,, but mine are certainly not. Since most of the time it is in 2WD the rear tires wear down before the fronts, hence different diameters.
In general driving down the hiway power traction is not required so long as the driver is careful. Of course going over a pass or driving on road that has yet to be plowed is an exception.
Rotate?? the only rotation my tires get is around their center!!!
I don't think 4WD should be engaged unless forward (or backward) traction is required . On vehicles w/o a center differential the front and rear tires must be exactly the same diameter to prevent slippage between the tire and road.
If the tires are the same diameter then there is no problem,, but mine are certainly not. Since most of the time it is in 2WD the rear tires wear down before the fronts, hence different diameters.
In general driving down the hiway power traction is not required so long as the driver is careful. Of course going over a pass or driving on road that has yet to be plowed is an exception.
Rotate?? the only rotation my tires get is around their center!!!
cojhl2: in general I agree but: Even if all tires are exactly the same diameter there WILL be slippage in a turn and your right—avoid it if possible. It has to do with the Ackermann principle—when a quad wheel vehicle turns each wheel follows a different radius in the turn (that leads to a common point inside the turn) and therefore they ALL turn at a different speed because they travel a different distance. Left/right wheels handle this OK but add front/back and something has to give. The diameter difference I was referring to (in case anyone was confused) is due to axle loading. Ergo - kick 4WD out when turning on nonslick surface (but we all knew that).
The NP203 was a differentiating full-time t-case. It wore your 4wd components way faster than any part-time t-case and sucked down more fuel, too.
If it's snowing and there is anything less than optimal traction, you won't hurt your 4wd components one bit by using them.
You guys kind of make these trucks sound very weak and needing to be babied in 4wd. What would be the point of having a truck like that? Look at the sled pullers and then tell me they can't take downright outrageous abuse in 4wd, much less normal slippery road driving.
I agree, optimal (non-slippery) pavement is a different story, especially when turning. Without added weight, the tires will scrub and chirp and you'll feel the feedback through the steering wheel. Do it too much and/or with alot of weight, and you might even break something then. But you will have had plenty of warning beforehand and deserve it. The truck will let you know when it doesn't want 4wd and it won't even feel good to drive it.
We all know we go from slick conditions to relatively dry and back again constantly in winter conditions. Use that t-case shifter and, by all means, use 2wd whenever possible, but don't be afraid to just put 'er in 4Hi when in doubt. 4wd, like awd, gives better control in any marginal traction situation than 2wd, especially rear-wheel 2wd.
The idea is to keep out of trouble in the first place. That requires traction and control. Waiting too long to use 4wd on slick roads is like waiting until you're stuck in the mud all the way to your hubs to get out and lock them in. Way too late...
If it's snowing and there is anything less than optimal traction, you won't hurt your 4wd components one bit by using them.
You guys kind of make these trucks sound very weak and needing to be babied in 4wd. What would be the point of having a truck like that? Look at the sled pullers and then tell me they can't take downright outrageous abuse in 4wd, much less normal slippery road driving.
I agree, optimal (non-slippery) pavement is a different story, especially when turning. Without added weight, the tires will scrub and chirp and you'll feel the feedback through the steering wheel. Do it too much and/or with alot of weight, and you might even break something then. But you will have had plenty of warning beforehand and deserve it. The truck will let you know when it doesn't want 4wd and it won't even feel good to drive it.
We all know we go from slick conditions to relatively dry and back again constantly in winter conditions. Use that t-case shifter and, by all means, use 2wd whenever possible, but don't be afraid to just put 'er in 4Hi when in doubt. 4wd, like awd, gives better control in any marginal traction situation than 2wd, especially rear-wheel 2wd.
The idea is to keep out of trouble in the first place. That requires traction and control. Waiting too long to use 4wd on slick roads is like waiting until you're stuck in the mud all the way to your hubs to get out and lock them in. Way too late...
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4X4 helps get your moving and to stay in control. As fas as stopping you have exacalty the same stopping power as the other person on the road, except you out weigh them by a couple thousand pounds. Watch what people are doing around you, if you have boxes/SMARTY installed, remove, turn off or turn them down. You don't need ANY extra power when driving on snow or ice. They can lead to tire spinning and loss of control. A tire spinning faster or slower than the speed you are moving is asking for soiled pants.
Hammer
TDR MEMBER
Everyone here has given you some sound advice and I will add the simplest one for you to remember... .
Never drive above your abilities and never push yourself to drive beyond what your capabable of. Those who do that will end up with problems that they may not be able to react to. Never let a driver behind you dictate your speed in bad weather,drive at pace that your ability can handle.
Remember,snow you can go on,just go easy and allow safe following distances. Always aim high in the steering so you can get a big picture view of whats in front of you and around you.
Ice...
Well,I am no hero on ice,either with my truck or my pickup. IF the roads are iced then its off to the Motel to prop my feet up and allow the maintence crews to make the road passable... ... ... ... Andy
Never drive above your abilities and never push yourself to drive beyond what your capabable of. Those who do that will end up with problems that they may not be able to react to. Never let a driver behind you dictate your speed in bad weather,drive at pace that your ability can handle.
Remember,snow you can go on,just go easy and allow safe following distances. Always aim high in the steering so you can get a big picture view of whats in front of you and around you.
Ice...
Well,I am no hero on ice,either with my truck or my pickup. IF the roads are iced then its off to the Motel to prop my feet up and allow the maintence crews to make the road passable... ... ... ... Andy
All good advice. I've chosen to not drive a 4X4 for a lot of reasons but I know they are great in the hands of someone who knows what they're doing.
I can't add to the 4X4 comments, but I do have a suggestion that might be worth while. When you get to where there is some significant snow or ice, take some time out to find a deserted parking lot that hasn't been plowed (fair grounds, school, shopping center, etc. ) and so some "playing around. That will help you get a feel for the limits of your equipment as well as your driving. Put your truck into some deliberate skids and see what it takes to straighten it out. Likewise with how the brakes act on a slick surface. Going is a piece of cake compared to stopping on the stuff!
Gene
I can't add to the 4X4 comments, but I do have a suggestion that might be worth while. When you get to where there is some significant snow or ice, take some time out to find a deserted parking lot that hasn't been plowed (fair grounds, school, shopping center, etc. ) and so some "playing around. That will help you get a feel for the limits of your equipment as well as your driving. Put your truck into some deliberate skids and see what it takes to straighten it out. Likewise with how the brakes act on a slick surface. Going is a piece of cake compared to stopping on the stuff!
Gene
Loaded my two young sons and my wife up last evening to attend my company's family Christmas outing, a hockey game 20 miles from my home.
It started drizzling just as we left. The temps were in the teens. Right away, it became obvious this was to be a repeat of last weekend's evil ice. That was followed by a few snowfalls and now more ice. Layers of crap. Snow is one thing; ice is another.
The wipers and defroster on my wife's S10 Blazer could not keep up. I was soon stopping to scrape the windshield futiley. It would be completely froze over again before I could get back in the blazer and turn the wipers back on. Cars began the surreal slow motion ballet of slowly sliding into each other, light poles, and the ditch. Some just simply stopped forward progress and began spinning in slow circles looking for traction. And this was just the first 2 miles.
I was able to "drive" very slowly, but I could not see or stop very well. I had not even gotten to the truly urban populated city where there would be lots of stop signs and lights and 1000 times more vehicles. We had only reached the small town we live outside of. So things were only going to get worse. And everything I care most about in this world was in that Blazer.
So I turned around and went home. Maybe we can attend next year.
The 4wd did it's job: It got me and my family safely far enough to know I didn't want to go any farther, and then back to our warm, dry home. The kids were disappointed, but understood. That's good, since my oldest (now 14) just went in and got his learner's permit yesterday.
99% of safe winter driving, most especially on ice, is simply making the right decision not to go. Now I'm off to find an empty parking lot so he can use his new permit and practice recovering from skids and such in the diesel dodge... He'll love it...
It started drizzling just as we left. The temps were in the teens. Right away, it became obvious this was to be a repeat of last weekend's evil ice. That was followed by a few snowfalls and now more ice. Layers of crap. Snow is one thing; ice is another.
The wipers and defroster on my wife's S10 Blazer could not keep up. I was soon stopping to scrape the windshield futiley. It would be completely froze over again before I could get back in the blazer and turn the wipers back on. Cars began the surreal slow motion ballet of slowly sliding into each other, light poles, and the ditch. Some just simply stopped forward progress and began spinning in slow circles looking for traction. And this was just the first 2 miles.
I was able to "drive" very slowly, but I could not see or stop very well. I had not even gotten to the truly urban populated city where there would be lots of stop signs and lights and 1000 times more vehicles. We had only reached the small town we live outside of. So things were only going to get worse. And everything I care most about in this world was in that Blazer.
So I turned around and went home. Maybe we can attend next year.
The 4wd did it's job: It got me and my family safely far enough to know I didn't want to go any farther, and then back to our warm, dry home. The kids were disappointed, but understood. That's good, since my oldest (now 14) just went in and got his learner's permit yesterday.
99% of safe winter driving, most especially on ice, is simply making the right decision not to go. Now I'm off to find an empty parking lot so he can use his new permit and practice recovering from skids and such in the diesel dodge... He'll love it...
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thanks for all the help. i made it safely there and back with no problems. i went to buy chain and no one had them. auto zone wanted $179 for cables and they had to order and walmart wanted $66 but they were out. how much do the normaly run? i have 295 75 16 roughly a 33. 5 inch tire.
SRath- i cant belive your son can get his permit when he is 14! i think it is cool that he can get his permit at that age. here in az you have to be 15 and 7months. you have to have your permit for 5 months after that weather your 16 or older.
SRath- i cant belive your son can get his permit when he is 14! i think it is cool that he can get his permit at that age. here in az you have to be 15 and 7months. you have to have your permit for 5 months after that weather your 16 or older.
They have actually made things tougher for young drivers here in Iowa. Put limitations on 16 year old drivers. I don't like that. Once again, a few bad apples, including publicity-seeking democrat politicians, have punished the many for the actions of a few. "Be a good social liberal: Make everyone live life to the standards set by the lowest examples... " 
Next August, after he has completed a certain number of hours driving with me and his mom, and a driver education course, he will have a "school permit" which will allow him to drive the most direct route to and from school and extracurricular activities by himself provided he has NO violations.
That is really great since we just open-enrolled him for the next 4 years in a superb small-town highschool only 6 miles away right down the county road we live on. Otherwise, he would have been bussed to a huge, overcrowded City highschool some 18 miles away. We only have 2 grade schools and a Junior High school in our town. The big city's liberal-controlled school district likes our tax money and steals it and our kids and squanders both... (Over my dead body!)
The really cool thing is he can now also get his motorcycle learner's permit and ride with me anywhere so long as we stay within a certain distance of each other. He has been an outstanding motocross racer since he was 4 years old and we are really looking forward to doing some street riding together after 10 years of offroad riding and racing together!
I'm looking into whether his school permit would also allow him to ride a motorcycle to school. That would be great during good weather. He can ride circles around me (literally). He really doesn't seem to "ride" a bike; he "wears" it like a natural part of himself. Makes me envious.
Motocross has honed his "situational awareness", reflexes, and coolness under pressure to an extreme level. These things will serve him well on the road. It also gives him a place to "let it all hang out" legally and relatively safely. He knows the publics highways are not the place for showing off and racing; the track is. He also knows the value of protective gear and the pain of violent crashes.
I'm fortunate to have a very mature, trustworthy son. This oldest one has continuously received "leadership awards" and high grades and praise from his school, coaches, teamates, and community leaders. He walks a very straight line and keeps his nose clean. He knows he must if his dream of going to the Air Force Academy and flying F-22's is to ever come true.
A school driving permit at age 14 will be one more fine opportunity to demonstrate his ability and willingness to handle responsibility. That's what kids need.
Next August, after he has completed a certain number of hours driving with me and his mom, and a driver education course, he will have a "school permit" which will allow him to drive the most direct route to and from school and extracurricular activities by himself provided he has NO violations.
That is really great since we just open-enrolled him for the next 4 years in a superb small-town highschool only 6 miles away right down the county road we live on. Otherwise, he would have been bussed to a huge, overcrowded City highschool some 18 miles away. We only have 2 grade schools and a Junior High school in our town. The big city's liberal-controlled school district likes our tax money and steals it and our kids and squanders both... (Over my dead body!)
The really cool thing is he can now also get his motorcycle learner's permit and ride with me anywhere so long as we stay within a certain distance of each other. He has been an outstanding motocross racer since he was 4 years old and we are really looking forward to doing some street riding together after 10 years of offroad riding and racing together!
I'm looking into whether his school permit would also allow him to ride a motorcycle to school. That would be great during good weather. He can ride circles around me (literally). He really doesn't seem to "ride" a bike; he "wears" it like a natural part of himself. Makes me envious.
Motocross has honed his "situational awareness", reflexes, and coolness under pressure to an extreme level. These things will serve him well on the road. It also gives him a place to "let it all hang out" legally and relatively safely. He knows the publics highways are not the place for showing off and racing; the track is. He also knows the value of protective gear and the pain of violent crashes.
I'm fortunate to have a very mature, trustworthy son. This oldest one has continuously received "leadership awards" and high grades and praise from his school, coaches, teamates, and community leaders. He walks a very straight line and keeps his nose clean. He knows he must if his dream of going to the Air Force Academy and flying F-22's is to ever come true.
A school driving permit at age 14 will be one more fine opportunity to demonstrate his ability and willingness to handle responsibility. That's what kids need.
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Issue 128 – Digital Version
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