Winterizing? Try vacuuming the FW system!

[richardcoxid]

A few of years ago while winterizing, I got to thinking about “blowing” the water out of the FW system.



The cold and hot water headers lay along the floor of the RV. All of the faucets etc. are at approximately waist level, when blowing the water you are trying to blow the water “up hill” fighting gravity. Plus if you don’t have a clamp on type of air chuck it takes two people to get the job done.



Using some PVC fittings and a short length of automotive heater hose I fabricated an adapter that connects between my wet/dry shop vacuum and slips over the RV’s low point FW drains. This way the vacuum is sucking the water down hill using gravity as an assist.



Now, I drain the HWH, then replace the drain plug, open the HWH by-pass valve, attach the shop vacuum adapter to the cold water low point drain. Open the drain valve, and then open then close each faucet valve individually. Then repeat for the hot water low point drain. During this I run the RV pump to run it dry. Remember the vacuum is helping to suck the water out of the pump, not blow it back in to the pump.



This may not be for everybody but has worked for me for the 3 previous years.



Just my 2 cents worth.



May you have fair winds and following seas.



Richard

 

[Todd T]

that's probably a 6 one way, half a dozen the other, scenario.



I see your point though on pulling it out using gravity to assist.



I'm not ready to throw in the towel for winter yet. we're using it twice this weekend and again in two weeks.

 

[jwduke]

Wouldn't you have to have a vacumn, with a really good suction pressure rate to get all of the water out of the lines?

 

[WyoJim]

Whats an FW system?

 

[nps]

Whats an FW system?

Fresh Water.

HWH=Hot Water Heater

 

[WyoJim]

Thanks nps for the reply... . I have been RVing since 1969 and had never heard the term... I guess I am just not hip to younger and modern jargon.

 

[EricBu12]

I do the Air routine also...



But, I have gotten a device you can get at the Trailer store where it screws into your City water port and it has a car tire schrader stem on it.....



I open the Upper sink, shower and toilet valves first and blow them one at a time... . opening one,... blow,... . close,... open another,... blow,... then I do the kitchen sink... .



Then I open all and open the low point..... some comes out by gravity, then I close all and I blow out the low point... . much comes out after that... .



I have a Winter hose port by my Water pump,(used to suck in Antifreeze-. . but I don't use AF)... I hook the Air device to that to blow any water from there so there is no water is in the pump... Before all this I drained the water tank and ran the pump dry when doing this blow routine...



Then I open all the valves including the toilet wedged open with a hose on the foot valve... .



If there is any small amount of water in the lines, the open valves will allow water to freeze along the length of the line and not expand and crack..... Have done this for 2 winters now and works good...

 

[terrywerm]

I hook an air pressure regulator in between my air hose and my water system, set it at 45 PSI, then go bleed everything out. Works like a charm. I still add antifreeze to all the drains and some down the toilet just to make sure that the drain traps and gate valves on my waste tanks are protected too, especially since it appears that one of the valves leaks a little bit. If any water gets under the slide and freezes, it will push the gate open a little more, allowing even more leakage, resulting in the area between the valves and the transport cap being full of water. If that freezes, it'll rupture the pipe.



An ounce of prevention... .

 

[MLee]

I hook an air pressure regulator in between my air hose and my water system, set it at 45 PSI, then go bleed everything out. Works like a charm. I still add antifreeze to all the drains and some down the toilet just to make sure that the drain traps and gate valves on my waste tanks



An ounce of prevention... .

My little ole' trailer has floor level drains for the hot and cold lines. I back drain via these drains. Close of the by-pass on the hot water heater, run the pump till dry, and attach a sprayer tank adapter to the fresh water in let and force what water that remains in the lines out with R. V. anti freeze. 30' trailer and takes about 1 1/2 gals to do this. Less if I use the srayer tank to blow out the lines first. There are to many low spots in these lines that water will settle in. The sprayer tank that I use is dedicated just for the trailer winterization process. I use R. V. anti freeze, I don't want to replace any of those out of the way water lines.

Marv.

 

[Grizzly]

My little ole' trailer has floor level drains for the hot and cold lines. I back drain via these drains. Close of the by-pass on the hot water heater, run the pump till dry, and attach a sprayer tank adapter to the fresh water in let and force what water that remains in the lines out with R. V. anti freeze. 30' trailer and takes about 1 1/2 gals to do this. Less if I use the srayer tank to blow out the lines first. There are to many low spots in these lines that water will settle in. The sprayer tank that I use is dedicated just for the trailer winterization process. I use R. V. anti freeze, I don't want to replace any of those out of the way water lines.

Marv.

You hit the nail on the head. That's the best way to winterize you RV. That's the book method also. With the water heater by-pass, my camper takes about 3/4 gallon of RV anti-freeze.

 

[dcscott]

What is a "sprayer tank adapter". I've got a fitting that goes into the city water connection to which I attach an air compressor. I'd love to put something in between to push some antifreeze into the lines. I thought about putting antifreeze into the FW tank and turning the pump on but don't know how I'd ever be able to flush the antifreeze out of the FW tank later. Pushing antifreeze through the city water connection sounds like a much better way to go.

 

[Grayhackle]

I use the rv antifreeze. Flush thoroughly in the spring.

Also after draining the hot water heater, I use a syringe(30cc) and length of tygon tubing and suck out the water on the bottom of the hot water heater. You would be surprised how much is left in there. I use the syringe to start the siphon process and it flows out pretty good.



If you put the antifreeze in the fw tank I don't know how you would ever get it out of there. Mine drains too slow. I think you would have a hell of a mess!

 

[CThompson]

Instead of using the Schrader valve, I use an air quick disconnect to attach the air line to the city water connection adapter with air regulated to 50 psi. Then I can go from faucet to faucet without going outside. Has worked for me for 25 years.

 

[klenger]

Back before global warming, I winterized with RV antifreeze. IMHO, the traps still need antifreeze even if you blow/suck the system dry.



Now that I live in AZ, I don't need to do it anymore.

 

[dcscott]

Instead of using the Schrader valve, I use an air quick disconnect to attach the air line to the city water connection adapter with air regulated to 50 psi. Then I can go from faucet to faucet without going outside. Has worked for me for 25 years.

That's what I'm doing as well. And yes, you still need to put antifreeze in the traps and holding tanks. I'd still like to know what a "sprayer adapter" is as I'd like to be able to blow antifreeze into the lines via the city water connection.

 

[terrywerm]

Using the city water connection to push anti-freeze through the system will not put any anti-freeze into your water pump, which you need to protect.



After I blow my system out, I get out my winterizing hose and fill the lines with RV anti-freeze by using the water pump to suck it in and distribute it through the lines. In my previous post I forgot to mention that I put anti-freeze in the water lines after they are blown out. Blowing out doesn't take more than a few minutes, and saves on the anti-freeze too since there is less water for it to dilute with. Up here in Minnesota, you definitely want to be sure that you have everything protected!

 

[MLee]

I cut the end off the sprayer tube, attached a short hose and a 1/2" male hose fitting with a hose barb with a "quick connect" fitting, installed, I screw a quick connect in the fresh water inlet, [male and female] Its a jerry rig type of thing, but it works for me. Just a lot easier to do it this way. And yes I do draw anti freeze in to the water pump via the pump inlet side. Had posted and then noticed I had not included this. But I knew someone would notice it.

Thanks: Marv.

 

[dcscott]

Using the city water connection to push anti-freeze through the system will not put any anti-freeze into your water pump, which you need to protect.



After I blow my system out, I get out my winterizing hose and fill the lines with RV anti-freeze by using the water pump to suck it in and distribute it through the lines. In my previous post I forgot to mention that I put anti-freeze in the water lines after they are blown out. Blowing out doesn't take more than a few minutes, and saves on the anti-freeze too since there is less water for it to dilute with. Up here in Minnesota, you definitely want to be sure that you have everything protected!

Terry - I assume you disconnect the water pump from the FW tank and hook it up to your "winterizing hose". That sounds like a workable solution to me. I didn't want to just pour the antifreeze into the FW tank because I've no way to flush it out later. I'm going to try and rig up a 'Y' valve where the pump hooks to the tank with a length of hose left attached. That way, all I'll have to do is stick the loose hose in the bottle of antifreeze, flip the 'Y' valve and turn on the pump.



Our situation is that our RV is presently sitting on some acreage without power or water. We plan on spending about every 3rd or 4th weekend there throughout the winter. This means we have to winterize and de-winterize it numerous times throughout the winter. I'd prefer it wasn't a 6 hour process.



On a mildly related note, how deep can I let the snow pile up on top of the 5th wheel before I have to be concerned and drive the 350 miles to sweep it off?



Dale

 

[MLee]

Dale;

There is a two way valve that is avilable [like the by past kit] that you can install before the pump. Attach a hose to the top nipple, and the incoming fresh water to the straight nipple and then attach to the pump. switch the valve for the direction you want to pump from. I would not trust a lot of snow on top, cause it turns to ice if you have a heat-thaw cycle, thus you could have leaks when you return. Could you build a cover over the top to help protect your investment? I've had about 14" but removed in a couple days but mine is a 87 TT. Its just not good for a lot of weight. Sorry i'm not terry but hope this gives a little info.

Marv.

 

[terrywerm]

Dale, Marv hit the nail right on the head. Mine has built in brass tee where I can connect a hose going to a jug of anti-freeze and it has a valve that lets me select where I want to draw from. Works pretty slick and makes the whole task much easier. You can get them at most RV dealers. Camping World has the whole kit for about $15. Install it between your FW tank and pump. Here's a link: Winterizing kit It's money well spent, especially in a situation like yours where you will be winterizing several times per year.



As for the snow, if your trailer sits someplace that is fairly open and the wind hits it fairly well, you may find that you don't get much snow piling up on the roof. I haven't had to clear mine off yet as the wind does a pretty good job. It might be a good idea to invest in a plastic scoop shovel though, I'd avoid using a metal edged shovel, especially if you have a rubber roof. You can probably get by with a push broom. You may also want to take some time to memorize where your sewage vents are on the roof, as well as the TV antenna, etc. so that you don't accidentally damage them.



Terry