wiring in additional driving lights

[JHardwick]

I have the fogs that run with the low beams, and I'm adding a new bumper with tabs for an additional set of driving lights. What would be the best way to have the driving lights run with the high beams while the fogs run with low beams? Could I just splice right into the high beam wire without overloading the circuit?

 

[rbattelle]

I think so, but you need to use the splice to power a relay. Current draw on the high beam wire must be minimized.

Ryan

 

[TKeeler]

I have the fogs that run with the low beams, and I'm adding a new bumper with tabs for an additional set of driving lights. What would be the best way to have the driving lights run with the high beams while the fogs run with low beams? Could I just splice right into the high beam wire without overloading the circuit?

Shouldn't be a problem as long as you use a low current draw relay (millamps)and power only the coil of the relay from the high beams wire. The relays I am familiar with identify the coil connections with the numbers 85 & 86, either one can be the ground. The battery (+) connects (through a fuse or breaker) to the #30 terminal and the (+) out to the light(s) connects to the #87 terminal.

 

[JDerrick]

You should check your states regulations for using auxiliary lighting while on the highway. In California it is illegal to use auxiliary forward facing lighting unless you are in an off-road environment, they must also had an opaque cover mounted on them while on the highway. In Nevada it is heavily frowned apon to use auxiliary lighting while on the highway outside of simple fog lights. So some research into your states laws might be prudent, especially to avoid a potentially expensive traffic citation. Now with that being said. It might just be easier ( and safer depending on driving conditions)to activate the higher powered driving lights on your truck with a separate switch, and of coarse use a relay with wiring gaged to 125% of the maximum load that the lights will draw, just to help prevent overloading/overheating of the wires. I also recommend running one wire to each light from the relay. Granted this means putting a few more feet of wire into your truck, however you will eliminate having a but splice hidden somewhere between the relay and the lights, thus less problems in the future with corrosion and added resistance in the circuit. After working many years with emergency vehicle electronics I have found that bosch relays tend to hold up the best. A single pole , single throw with 5 terminals will work just fine. Water proof connectors and loom are a good idea also to help protect everything from the elements.

 

[JHardwick]

Oh jeez, sounds like a couple of candles mounted on the front bumper would be easier :-laf



I briefly looked at the service manual, can I use a spare fuse position and a spare relay position in the factory fuse block?



Ohio state law says that you can have up to 5 lights burning on the front of a vehicle at a time.

 

[rbattelle]

I briefly looked at the service manual, can I use a spare fuse position and a spare relay position in the factory fuse block?

Probably, but you'll have to remove the fuseblock and hack into it. I'm not sure how difficult that is.



JDerrick is right in terms of a switch being the simplest way of doing this. 1 switch, 1 relay, several feet of wire; piece of cake.



There may be times when you want the extra lamps without the high beams.



Ryan

 

[JHardwick]

Nope, I want the driving lights on with the high beams, fog lights on with the low beams ... ... ... ... . it appears to be legal in Ahia. I've got way too many switches and wires now.

 

[JHardwick]

Probably, but you'll have to remove the fuseblock and hack into it. I'm not sure how difficult that is.



Ryan

Wanna help me, I've got the soldering gun, heat shrink etc. I'd like to keep this install clean.

 

[JHardwick]

I'm already gonna be doing this install ... ...

 

[JDerrick]

TEARING INTO THE FACTORY FUSE BLOCK EEEEEEEEWWWWWWWWWWW YUKK GOOD LUCK WITH THAT... ... . Something to keep in mind if you REALLY do want to use a position in the factory fuse block. Do make sure that you can find the style relay, and wire terminals that the fuse block is designed for, AND make sure that it is rated for your required load. Having a fire or melt down is one thing, but having a fire or melt down that mucks out your fuse block. Totally not cool... ... .....

 

[rbattelle]

Wanna help me, I've got the soldering gun, heat shrink etc. I'd like to keep this install clean.

No problem I'd help you out. But the "cleanest" way would probably be to run a painless auxiliary fuseblock, then wire in the new lamps.



I'm set up for good quality electrical work at my home shop. It would take a few hours to install a fuseblock, then install the lights.



Hacking the factory fuseblock could take longer, depending on what it looks like underneath.



Ryan

 

[JHardwick]

TEARING INTO THE FACTORY FUSE BLOCK EEEEEEEEWWWWWWWWWWW YUKK

Yeah, I know, however, it'd be a clean install!

 

[JHardwick]

No problem I'd help you out. But the "cleanest" way would probably be to run a painless auxiliary fuseblock, then wire in the new lamps.



I'm set up for good quality electrical work at my home shop. It would take a few hours to install a fuseblock, then install the lights.



Hacking the factory fuseblock could take longer, depending on what it looks like underneath.



Ryan

I'll buy at the steak house of your choice!!!

 

[Matt400]

In California it is illegal to use auxiliary forward facing lighting unless you are in an off-road environment

No true

they must also had an opaque cover mounted on them while on the highway.

1/2 true, only if the center of the lamp is over 42" do they need the cover.

It might just be easier ( and safer depending on driving conditions)to activate the higher powered driving lights on your truck with a separate switch

If he does then they will for sure need to be covered.

To keep them legal and uncovered they should be wired to come on with the high beams and if there is any chance they might be seen by others then a switch that will cut them out but not on would be a good idea IMO.



For CA residents there is some good reading here:

Article 2. Headlamps and Auxiliary Lamps - Sections 24400-24411 - California Vehicle Code - California Code :: Justia

and also here:

Off Road Lites



Of course I realise that lights too bright will be ticketed even if within the rules posted however you wont be ticketed if you don't shine them in others eyes.

 

[JHardwick]

I ended up completely hacking the harness that came with the Hella FF200 driving light kit. I cut the switch and associated wire completely out and jumped it. Then I cut at least half of the rest of the harness out. I mounted the lights, ran the power leads to the driver battery, and the relay trigger to the driver headlight high beam wire. Ended up a pretty clean install after getting rid of all the extra wire.