Wiring job on my new ARE cap

[GCroyle]

Guys,

Just showing off my new ARE cap and the wiring job an ARE distributor did while installing my new ARE MX series cap. Have not had a chance to use the cap but as they described the wiring work, I knew I'd at least be checking the work. It has a high stop light and interior lights for the rear and each side windows, "windoor".

So far the cap seems just great, but look how they probed the wiring right at the plug probing for the stop light circuit. It would have been easy to remove the plug from the lamp housing and test the exposed terminals for the stop light circuit w/o any probing. But that darn unsealed wire tap has to go. And then they probed the 7 way right at the plug. They did nothing to seal the holes in the insulation. And probing right at the plug does not allow hardly any chance to repair corrosion damage I have an auxiliary back up light system that has a separate hot circuit and powering a relay. Easy to connect to if they would have asked. I'm kinda fussy about electrical circuits and I use my 7 way including the charge line that they tapped into when I tow.

So, what ya guys think about the probing and leaving the wires with holes in them?

I already started the repairs to the probed insulation. And they didn't even tighten the ground screw that they installed.

I do like the cap.

Gary

 

[HGreen]

Don't feel bad, my ARE dealer did the same thing, with me watching and I even gave them the wiring diagram with the color coded wires circled for them. To their credit, they did use the wire provided for remote third brake light. I used silicone to reseal the probe sites the next day.

 

[Bill Stockard]

I would be livid if they did that to my truck and it's why I don't let anyone touch the wiring. If a wiring modification must be done, I do it myself.

Bill

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

At least put RTV over the cuts! Why the he-- did they do that when the metal connector is 1/8" away inside the plastic connector housing? Also, I wrote in Issue 83, p. 79 about the factory harness lead for an aftermarket CHMSL. The editor didn't use the photo, but here it is:

 

[GCroyle]

Bill,

When I visited to purchase, I asked to take a peak in the shop and talk to the guy that quoted me. They are actually in a car dealership they bought and do a lot of custom work caps are not job 1. Yeah, sure go on back, we'll give you a tour. I show up Sat AM and prepared to sit OUTSIDE the building and not go inside, trying to respect their house. Uh, Sir please wait in the lobby.

Joe,

I'll have to look for that one, I'll check the article.

I have already started the cleanup, RTV on the wounds and socket backside and got rid of those blanket blank inline taps.

Anybody got a favorite sealed inline tap for future reference? Tried to find one at parts store, no luck.

Gary

 

[crispyboy]

My local fastenal store had several types of connectors with the built in shrink wrap with sealant.

I put an ARE cap on my truck back in 2010. I WOULD NOT LET THEM TOUCH THE WIRING!
On my 09 truck there is a pig tail at the rear of the truck (along rear cross member) specifically for a third brake light from the factory. Not sure if your truck is wired this way.
I also put my own LED interior lights in the the cap along with 12v plug/socket for charging cell phone etc.....
I placed two of these in the cap. One on each side just above the window staggered to front/back. I also wired them into the interior dome light so when you unlock the doors with the key fob the interior lights of the cab and cap both illuminate. The only thing I haven't figured out how to do is wire them to automatically illuminate when you open the cab door.

http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-light-tubes/12-inch-24-led-light-tube/51/

 

[GCroyle]

crispyboy,

I have some butt connectors with sealant, seen that but just curious about a sealed tap type connector. My ARE has sensors on the gas spring rod end that controls the rear and each side windoor individually. LED strip lights run down the length of the windoors. And my favorite connection system is crimp, solder and shrink wrap. I started with an electrical tech background. Back in the late 80's I converted a 1985 2.2L Caravan 5 speed from carb to FI and it required marrying the carb bulkhead connector to the FI engine wiring harness. Transplanted the head and all required FI items including the what was it called, SMEC? controller. Crimped, soldered, shrink wrapped never had a problem with the 40+ connections in the main engine harness.

I think I was expecting a bit more professionalism from a custom hard and show parts accessory retailer and installer that has the ability to buy an entire car dealership lot, lock, stock and lifts.

Gary

 

[mwilson]

They need to stop doing that crap right now......and start using the vehicle body builder guides. Snap the tips off of the Wal-Mart test lights they are using and throw those wire-penetrating connectors way out back in the woods somewhere.....those days are over and gone.

They will learn the hard way if they persist and it will cost them some money.

 

[GCroyle]

Mike,

This ain't over but I don't think its ARE's fault, they didn't install it. But they knew by VIN where it was going, so can or did they send a wiring connection guide with the cap?

At least I already have an e-mail contact at ARE too.

Gary

 

[crispyboy]

When I ordered my truck cap the kid behind the desk was both the salesman and the installer....... He wasn't particularly impressive in any shape or form. I asked him about how they hook up the wiring (I had already consulted the body builders guide) and he didn't have a clue... He said "we do all the hookup of the wiring and it is included in the price", I said " NO - that's OK I'll just take care of it myself" He was surprised....

 

[GCroyle]

I have an '04 FSM file and they list a Center High Mount Stop Lamp Aftermarket. I searched thru the wiring for a while, found several references but didn't locate the exact location, but found this under my truck on the drivers side and a clip from the wiring diagram. Already started the RTV patching.

That should be common knowledge for a cap installer and I bet other brands are doing something similar.

Thanks Joe.

Gary

 

[jelag]

Gary....

I always use butt connectors and shrink tube... when I have to connect to an existing wire I have connectors with one end larger than the other end... the shrink tube has a sealant in the liner so that when it shrinks its now a water proof connection... I get all my connectors, relays, sockets, wire and shrink tube at Delcity.net

Since I'm living in 2 houses and a RV I have a supply at/in each... the key for me... is a lot of guys don't understand DC electrical circuits... for me... its to design a circuit that will work in the truck and go the life of the truck during the time I own it and the guy who buys it from me....

Its a shame they made a mess with your wiring... I always had problems with one of the large dealers and exhaust brakes.. they would wire it wrong.. it wouldn't work and they'd pull all the parts of the kit and send back the complete kit for warranty... of course PacBrake and I wouldn't absorb the costs... It finally took a sit down with the accessory sales manager and we talked him into spending a half-hour more time and using a better technician to do the wiring and all the problems went away... in this case they paid the technician by the job... and all they wanted to do is blast through the job...

 

[GCroyle]

Jim,

The e-mails are starting this AM, we'll see what they produce.

I think I just trusted someone's shop to much that is actually capable of frame up restorations.

Gary

 

[mwilson]

I know that mess would not make one winter up here.

For example I use never seeze around the hub pilot and rim surface when installing wheels on all of my vehicles. Had to use a BFH when taking wheels off the new van and Gizmo this month as wheels were stuck in spite of the compound.
Rear brake calipers with 30,000 miles on them look 100 years old and have stuck as a result of the road chemicals.

A bare naked wire doesn't stand a chance up here......

 

[Crazy Horse]

So, what ya guys think about the probing and leaving the wires with holes in them?

Hackers!!!

I can't believe there are still people in "the trade" not knowing of the 3rd brake tap wire the factory on has had them back there on the Dodge since about 1998. I started a business in Anchorage in 1995 and used to manufacture ,retail, and install truck tops there. I would always wire into a secure quick disconnect at the LR corner of the shell to make it easy for costumers to pull the tops if they needed to. Tap the wire with a non-insulated 18-22 gauge wire connector and about 2" of heat shrink that would barely fit over the connector, shrink it down with a lighter after splicing the wire in the connector and run and tie the wire up (zip ties) in split 1/4" split loom to the quick disconnect. Incorporate the ground wire into the split loom behind the tail light with a self tapping screw and flat washer and run that and the hot tapped wire up to the quick disconnect, I always followed it up with a quality spray Rust Inhibitor on the ground screw connection. I had my business for 7 years and never had a 3rd brake lite quit working as a result of my work.

This is a picture of the top I built for Rose's new truck in late 98. Took the photo about 2 weeks ago. It all still has original paint, non-leaking windows, 3rd brake works like a charm and the trucks is all original with about 85,000 miles on it, almost 15 years ago. When I built the tops for the business I would also spend a tube of 100% clear silicone and double seal every window and rear door I ever put in. This prevented the window seal from pooching out or sliding in due to thermal expansion and contraction. Imagine -30 to -50 outside pulling into a heated garage at 60 degrees, or reverse going out to work in the am. That 2nd silicone seal also prevented movement in the seal during sustained harsh vibrations. I ran a healthy bead all the way around the inside edge of the stick on window seal gasket after prepping the surface with rubbing alcohol. I never had one top come back leaking except when customers would break the glass for one reason or another, and that's pretty darn good for the conditions of those Alaska roads. The only problem was changing broken windows or door out; you literally has to pry, bend, and U shape a window frame on extraction, but after you did one or two of those you get good at ripping them out!

 

[Powder Extreme]

Now I'm concerned, local dealer is installing an ARE Z series on my truck next week. I'm going with the remote keyless entry and interior light wired in so there will be numerous connections. It's a small shop so I'm going to try and hang out IN the shop while they install to make sure the wiring isn't a hack job. So far the guy seemed more knowledgeable than a typical salesmen. Keeping fingers crossed.

 

[GCroyle]

PE,

Also note the harness routing. They IMHO pinched mine between cap and bed. I'm going to try to reroute and finalize repairs tomorrow.

Gary

 

[GCroyle]

Crazy Horse,

That's a darn fine looking cab. The yellow and body side moulding and black cap seal seam look good. And the plug idea for a removal, I might never need it but its a professional touch.

Gary

 

[Crazy Horse]

Crazy Horse,

That's a darn fine looking cab. The yellow and body side moulding and black cap seal seam look good. And the plug idea for a removal, I might never need it but its a professional touch.

Gary

Well we changed a few things on the truck when we got it, like the blue "Sport" logo on the hood had to go. We changed that to black along with the red Red "Magnum" had to go to black also. And we try to keep door dings off the doors which we have done pretty well for the years we've owned it. Anyway, there is (was) no need to smash the wire between the bed of the truck and the shell base rail. I always routed my wires up through the factory hole towards the top of the inside tail light post. (SEE PHOTO) Then after the quick disconnect the hot and ground go by sharp edges in 1/4" split loom to the replacement 3rd high mounted stop light. Excuse the dust it's been down the Alcan a couple of times and is going be 16 years old in Dec.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

My Jason cap has a battery operated light, so the only electrical wire that needed to be run from the truck's harness was for the CHMSL. I soldered a purple wire (factory stub wire is white/purple) to the harness and ran it up the rear pillar of the bed, and out, leaving plenty for the shop to use when the put the cap onto the bed. I also drilled the mounting holes, going through reinforced areas of the bed rail, and then repeatedly used a magnet on a stick to get all shavings out. It would be risky to force the plastic rail cover off--might damage some of the molded pop-on clips. Yes it was a bit more work on my part, but I got the results I wanted. I also bought 3/8" eyebolts and made up heavy plates to spread the load on the fiberglass. With the eyebolts, it is easy to use ratchet straps to secure something big and heavy in the bed.