Here I am

Wiring job on my new ARE cap

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No more full timing in North, North Dakota

ZION National Park -

I used to stock, install, and install battery operated lights in every canopy I would sell as standard equip. It would always tuck up high enough not to hang below the inside frame clamp ring and took four "D" sized batteries. There are some batt operated lights out there that only take double A's and they are short lived in cool weather. I have used these lights personally at -40 Caribou Hunting and shed the standard amount of light as long as you needed it. I also put 2 of them in the "Dog's Camper in 2005 when we moved to SC. Today 2014 you can go out in the "Dog's Camper" and those same light still work with those Duracells in them. I tried one just for grins a couple of weeks ago to see if they would light and they do, could not believe it if I didn't see it. This is where it's been sitting since 2005 when we pulled it of the trailer.

Dog Camper.jpg


Ponderosa Camp.jpg


Dog Camper.jpg


Ponderosa Camp.jpg
 
Guys,

I got rid of all of the installers wiring efforts and with several suggestions from your replies its re-wired.

The probed wire insulation got RTV sealed and taped up. I used the stop light tap as several noted, added a 3 wire mini terminal block at the back bottom corner of the cap and it ties the cap to bed wires. From the terminal block I ran a length of 3 wire SJ cord and got my ground, stop light and for cap lights I used the power line that I ran for my AUX backup lights relay and when I loosened the cap and pulled the wires back, yup they pinched the cap wires pretty badly between cab and cap. The new routing does not pinch the wires. The SJ was pretty convenient, insulated, flexible it does allow via the terminal block disconnecting.

Now, an e-mail with pic's to the dealer is next week.

Thanks for the tips and suggestions.

Gary
 
Joe,

That was part of the plan, and a link to this thread, we are a group of customers that have a real connection to our trucks. What about the gas engine guys, lots more of them. Something so simple had such potential to cause problems and seems to have struck a nerve.

Gary
 
Well keep in mind the quick disconnect photo I posted up in this thread was done in 1998 when the truck was delivered to us as a 99. Actually the manufacturers can learn something from this thread. You can do things for life or you can do thing HA'd. Like our evaporators in our Dodge trucks. I had to replaced the one in Rose's 99 1500 Sport and my 02 2500 Cummins. HA design! Shame on them! I guess doing it right for the long run... that's where pride is born.
 
Gary,
Love my ARE Z series cap but I too didn't have a good experience with the dealers. I wanted a cab boot instead of a front window and got conflicting info on whether or not ARE could do this. Finally called the company and they sorted it out.... next challenge was the window loosening up, sliding down and chipping the paint. The dealers answer to that was to hand me a touch up bottle! Fortunately I chose to do my own wiring (after seeing the shop "wiring scotch lock kit") utilizing a connector similar to Crazy Horse, also purchased the power lock kit for the cap door. On the flip side the same shop did a great job with the spray in bedliner.
For future use .. my attempts to use RTV to seal electrical connection have not worked too well... I found Liquid Tape sticks to the wire insulation much better than the RTV and doesn't get knocked off while doing future maintenance in that area.
You will find the ARE product to be solid and last a long time. Mine is 10 yrs old and has required very little maintenance! Glad you are engaging ARE directly.
 
Guys,

I sent a detailed report with pictures to ARE and the installing shop. I haven't heard back from the shop and not really expecting a reply. But ARE e-mailed back in about 30 minutes thanking me for the report and a bit about what information they provide to their dealer installers. ARE does provide access to wiring information via their dealer login feature on their website and via e-mail or phone. ARE apologized for the situation. It would only be in their best interest to make the job successful for the dealer and consumer.

That's enough for me.

And thanks for all of the suggestions.

Gary
 
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