Wiring Question

[GFritsch]

I am in the process of installing a Firestone remote air set up. The kit includes a 17. 5 amp 12 v compressor and a 3 gallon tank. Has any one installed one of these? Specifically where a good switched 20 amp power source would be. I noticed that there is a separate 4 pin trailer connector run with the bundle the has the 7 pin wiring. I was considering using the hot wire from this 4 pin connector. None of the wires in this 4 pin connector are red. Anyone know which one is hot?



Any advice would be appreciated,

Greg

 

[y-knot]

Four pin connectors will not have a always hot like the seven pin. They only cover the right and left turning signal, marker and ground.

Don't be lazy, you bought a good set-up. Get your self a good quality inline fuse holder (30), and some #10 wire, bring it strait from the battery, I like to run a seperate ground also for large motor leads. Tkae your time and route the wires away from heat, and moving objects, also protect the wire with some kind of conduit, plastic or rubber. Secure the two often and with quality fasteners.

 

[GFritsch]

I considered coming directly off the battery, but I didn't want to add a switch to turn the system off. The truck sits for long periods, and a small leak could keep the compressor running off and on. The kit came with a inline fuse, separate ground etc. I was hoping to tie into a power source that was switched by the ignition.



My wife would like the lazy comment...



Anyone else?

 

[CIverson]

Just go get relay and use an ignition on source to turn on the relay and you can run the power right from the battery through the relay.

 

[rbattelle]

I whole-heartedly agree with Y-Knot and CIverson. I don't believe you will find a good 20A circuit in the truck that you can suck 17. 5 amps from without blowing the fuse every time. In my opinion, it's always better to build your own secondary electrical system isolated from the vehicle electrical system. That way, in the event of an electrical problem, you can easily disconnect all your accessories to isolate the issue.

 

[KHogan]

Geno's Garage has a nice 7 or 8-pole (space) remote-mount fuse block (waterproofed as an option) that goes directly to the battery(s) and gives you a choice of all switched or half switched/half always powered fused spaces for around $65.

It's great for adding all kinds of electrical accessories WITHOUT having to splice into existing wiring and/or overloading existing circuits.

 

[GFritsch]

Thanks for the help, I will order the Geno's fuse block. How are the new fuses switched without tying into the ignition or other switched circuit? It seems to me (not being an electrical expert) that the new fuses simply wired to the hot side of the battery and grounded would provide only full time power.



BTY-- The system is now fully installed minus the power wire. The 2. 5 gallon tank fit nicely mounted to the bottom of the bed in the extra space the dually fender provides. The compressor is mounted in the same space on the drivers side (up high to protect from dirt). The air chuck disconnect is mounted along with the air bag valves in the gusset of the trailer receiver.



I hot wired the compressor last night to test the system and it worked well. It took 4 minutes to inflate the system. I can quickly plug in to the back of the truck and inflate air bags or tires.



Next... AIR HORNS



Thanks for the help,

Greg

 

[DE Jeeper]

I used a 30amp relay and tapped the switched wire off an extra "ignition on" space in the under hood power dist. box. I ran the power wire straight from the bat. to the relay with an in-line fuse. I hope this helps.