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Archived Wont shift into overdrive

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I have an 04 2500 5. 9 single wheel. I purchased this truck brand new in oct. 03. This rig has only 70k miles on it and has been severly pampered. Less than 10k miles ago i had the second gear clutchs replaced and the rest of the trans freshened. At that time i had them do the typical shift kit to firm up the shifts along with a nice billet converter(tighter than stock obiviously). I have love the results of this mod so far!

2 months ago the trans began acting funny... ie, not always shifting into overdrive like it should. I pulled the valve body down and replaced the notorious solinoids within. When i reassembled, i went to test drive... . STILL no overdrive! I pulled over, pulled out the bullydog power pup extreme program and put it back to stock programing. . Took off and... . bam... went right into overdrive. ! I left it on the stock program for a few days, then i just couldnt stand the lack of power anymore, i put the extreme program back in. I had no one ounce of trouble until this last weekend. I was running around town when all of the sudden... no overdrive again!!! Once again i downloaded the stock program again thinking that would fix it... . nope, still no overdrive!! I left the truck sitting at home the remainder of the weekend with the batts unhooked. Monday morning, hooked the batts up... . STILL no overdrive!! I feel confident this is not a mechanical issue with the trans, but yet either a solinoid issue or a computer issue. Cant highway drive till i get this fixed!



Anyone have any advise??? This is my third cummins with an automatic. For some reason it seems im continuously replacing these dang solinoids!! Whats the deal??? BTW... IM done with bullydog... not impressed. Gonna go smarty with twins hopefully... . but i gotta get it to shift first!!



Any help appreciated. . Thanx
 
bswift, I've been where you are, kind of... there are couple of items to look at in addition to the governor pressure solenoid and transducer sensor, and the OD solenoid.



The gear selector sensor can become contaminated with transmission fluid causing shorting, or a bad connection, or they can just go bad. The gear selector sensor is on the drivers side of the trans, just to the rear and below the front band adjustment stud, it has the wire loom with 7 pin plug attached. My front band adjustment stud was leaking transmission fluid onto that plug/sensor, causing all sorts of weird behavior. I unplugged it and cleaned both male and female connections with an aresol contact cleaner, then coated with dielectric grease and put back together(Chrysler recommends replacing, which you may have to). That solved some of the symptoms.



I also ordered the aforementioned solenoids, along with a new APPS(from timbo, I'll provide a link below Home), As luck would have it, I installed the APPS first. WOW, that was the ticket. I have yet to install the new solenoids, I will, maybe next service. My truck has shifted perfectly fine since, not a single issue.



Home



You can also clear codes with a code reader, even if none are present... it sometimes works.



There is a thread currently still active called "48 re 1-2 gear hunt" lots of good info.



Good Luck and keep after it, you will correct it soon, Hope this helps. Jess
 
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thank u,

im gonna jump under her and pop the plug. . i know exactly the one your talking bout... after that ????? How do i manually engauge overdrive??? which wire wire do i ground??? Not sure how to proceed with this techniquie
 
thank u,

im gonna jump under her and pop the plug. . i know exactly the one your talking bout... after that ????? How do i manually engauge overdrive??? which wire wire do i ground??? Not sure how to proceed with this techniquie



Clean the plug and sensor thoroughly when apart. If your front band adjustment stud is leaking, you can fix it with thread sealant on the stud, and a copper washer under the nut. You will have to retorque the stud to 72 inch pounds, then back off 1 3/4 turns for a stock trans. My builder stated 2 turns.



On the end of the plug, the pins are numbered. 6 pin is the 3/4 lock, will lock it in overdrive. 7 pin is the TC lock, will lock TC in every gear.



I used a 22 ohm 1/4 amp resistor from radio shack in each circuit. I tapped into both 6 & 7 separately, using 2 'T' butt splices, which I soldered and heat shrank and taped. I ran those two circuits up to two on/off toggle switches under my steering wheel, then in series through the resistors to a ground on the dash.



Do not use 10 ohm resistors, because if you activate both switches at once, the 10 ohm resistors in parallel become 5 ohms, which is too close to the low end of the scale the PCM/ECM is monitoring, and your truck will go into limp mode (how do I know this?).



Once the switches are installed and you can lock/unlock at will, it will give you a better idea of what may be happening. If your switch circuits (the ones you installed) are solid/good (check w/meter) and solenoids are not activating, then clutch material or debris maybe affecting them or your gear selector sensor is kaput... Just remember when you activate the switches, there is a slight delay before the solenoids react.



Keep us informed.
 
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Well... . I removed plug this am and cleaned both end and sensor out well. I applied dielectric grease into each pin. The plug and surrounding area really wasn't oily at all, but went ahead and cleaned up well anyway. At the same time I unplugged and cleaned the other plug just below as well( I'm guessing that is the gear selector switch?). Took kids to school and..... Still no overdrive. Guess I'll stop by and pick up resistors to wire up Manuel switches. I called my local dodge house this am to see of they could slide me in for a quick "reflash". No dice... . Completely booked! This is why I'm not sold on warrenties!! Want it done right and sometime this millennium... Do it yourself!! Lol
 
From 96 Service Manual for 47re little brother to 48re.

No 3-4 upshift:

1. Dash o/d switch in off position. (or maybe bad?)

2. Overdrive circuit fuse blown.

3. O/d swtich wire shorted/open cut.

4. Distance or cooler sensor malfunction.

5. TPS malfuction.

6. Neutral switch to pcm wire shorted/cut.

7. PCM malfunction.

8. Overdrive solenoid shorted/open.

9. Solenoid feed orfice in valve body blocked.

10. Overdrive clutch failed.

11. Hydraulic pressure low.

12. Valve body stuck.

13. O/D piston incorrect spacer.

14. Overdrive piston seal failure.

15. O/D check valve orfice failed.
 
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