Wood cutters, ever run into thiswith a saw?

[John]

Originally posted by Crash_AF:
Hey Treeman,
IMBiasedO is:
In My Biased Opinion.

Crash_AF, TREEMAN responded to me the way I had it written in my post (above his): IMBiasedO... I wrote out biased as I wasn't sure everyone knew that one.

Ranger Dick, I used to use the Super Chisel, Skip Tooth version exclusively (personal preference) however, I have gone back to the Full Comp version (same tooth design) exclusively, again, personal preference. The findings you and Stihl have found mirror my own; the skip tooth design works really well in softer woods (conifers) as well as some harder woods (deciduous) such as alder. However, if you are using one saw doing double duty (bucking/limbing) such as in the case of cutting firewood, the Full Comp design works better (IMNSHO... in my not so humble opinion). Hows that Crash_AF? #ad

 

[Chad Sheets]

I think I am going to bomb the saw. Hows a split intake sound with dual carbs and an expansion chamber. If I can get my arms up to it, I might even mount a 750 Honda engine to a 40 inch bar and try that!

Didnt get to try the saw out. There were some construction guys out there doing my basement. I didnt want to break that saw out and give them a reason to come back late at night searching through my barn. I did however go to my friends garage and pull my intake off the Cuda. It was leaking some oil in front. Nothing a new set of gaskets and a big tube of silly cone wont fix. If I get the intake back on Saturday, get the oil and fuel filters changed on the Deere, rebuild the carb on my 4 wheeler, put in a new crank position sensor and rotate the wifes tires... ... rest... ... . then go try the saw out. I need a vacation!

 

['956Wheel]

Chad, got carbide? The Stihl's run fast and will cook a "normal" chain due to heat. The guys at work were cutting down old cooling towers and eating chains like mad, carbide was the answer. They are pricey but will go a l-o-n-g time. Pay now or later. If you do not wear eye protection please do so with carbide!

Mike

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9535hundred

 

[Koa Man]

I use Rapco carbide chain on my 064 for cutting dirty stumps etc. Chain stays sharp for a long time, but you need a special diamond wheel to sharpen it. The chain is also very expensive, $1. 65 per drive link X 92 links.

As far as bombing a saw, Shindaiwa has an annual national contest for their mechanics on doing just that. The dealers who want to enter supply their mechanic a new Shindaiwa saw and whatever parts their guy needs. I have a friend who is a mechanic for the Shindaiwa distributor here and he had NOS and an expansion chamber on his. I need to check wtih him on how he did at the contest.

 

[Chad Sheets]

Well, problem solved with the new chain. I dont know what it is they gave me this time, but I cut a heck of alot of wood today and the chain never quit cutting. I like the sound of those carbide chains. They sure are $$$$, but if you were going to out in the woods cutting all day long, a chain like that would make the day go alot easier. Thanks for all the info guys.

 

[OO]

Don't those carbide chains cut really slow compared to a regular round or chisle chain when falling,limbing,or bucking?

 

[Koa Man]

Depends on the cutter you get. If you get the Rapco chain made for fire depts to cut thru roofs etc, the chain will cut much slower. I have their chain with the regular round style cutter and it cuts about the same speed as steel cutters, except it stays sharp a lot longer.

 

[Sled Puller]

Originally posted by Statland:
Chad, got carbide? The Stihl's run fast and will cook a "normal" chain due to heat. The guys at work were cutting down old cooling towers and eating chains like mad, carbide was the answer. They are pricey but will go a l-o-n-g time. Pay now or later. If you do not wear eye protection please do so with carbide!

Mike

Dang, I was joking about oil, but maybe it isn't such a bad idea!
Chad,
You want to try some? I'll send you a qt, no charge, for R&D!
Gene



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1997 Cummins Dodge 4x4 Bombed & Amsoiled. Amsoil Premiere Direct Jobber, Member of: NRA Business Alliance, GLTDR, WANTED: Wrecked Dodges.
www.awdist.com

 

[TREEMAN]

Just got back from my weekend to see some interesting posts. I did however find a source for that acronym chain,duh!. Thanks for the enlightenment. I think John made the key point on all the different chain types in that it all boils down to the skill level of the operator. If you cut every day, then time is money & the quicker you can get through the wood the less fatigued you will be at the end of the day which relates to potential for injury. However if you dont have the skill level or the practice then you will be wasting a lot of time sharpening chain using the more aggresive chain as it doesent take much to lose the edge. If you cut out in the woods & dont carry spare loops then the easiest chain to maintain is a round ground semi or full chisel either full or skip,which can be easily touched up with a file. From a maintenance point of view, skip is a lot easier as there are less teeth to sharpen but on the down side it does increase the chances of kickback ( for all you periodic chain saw or entry level users )From an employer standpoint ihave to asses each of my guys aptitude & skill level cos i,ve wasted a lot of time sharpening chain by putting the wrong type of chain in the wrong hands.
Ranger Dick i use Baileys for all my suppllies ,a great place with good prices,i,ll have to check that inject-A-sharp chain out.
Sorry for the long post ,just dont want anyone getting hurt using an inapropriate chain. Sounds like most of you guys are pro,s though. Safe cutting. Ian

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2001,2500 q-cab,auto 4x4,4. 10 anti-slip rearend. All options except leather seats. Line-x bed & tool box. Slide-in -removable rack,BFG 295,s ,Fender flares. Westin nerf bars,billet grill & fog inserts. Rancho,9000,s,Isspro gauges,
1994 2500,4X4,12 valve,bone stock for now

 

[Alan Reagan]

Chad. You did crank it up before cutting, didn't you? #ad
I got the feeling that you are wanting to figure out a way to put a CAT engine on or BOMB this baby somehow.

 

[John]

Regarding carbide, the reason for the increased expense is the cardide teeth are brazed (or silver soldered) to the drivers and probably precision ground afterwards although, they may may be finished machined (ground) prior to "brazing" in saw chain applications. Irrespective, the cost of carbide is high... ditto for machining it for use in cutting tools.

Once I became a skilled enough saw operator my chains started lasting a L-O-N-G time between sharpenings. Having been around solid and inserted precision carbide machine tools all of my adult life at work (and understanding the dynamics and applications of same), I still feel there would only be a handful of legitimate applications in wood cutting. Then there is the safety issue of "brazed" on carbide cutting teeth... these do let go from time to time. #ad
#ad


Statland brings up a very good point... eye as well as ear protection should ALWAYS be worn when operating a chain saw. I repeat, ALWAYS!

 

[Koa Man]

I agree with John that eye and ear protection is very important. I HAD one employee who never wore eye or ear protection. He said he was "used to" the noise. I told him it was because he was going deaf. Lucky for me he quit soon after to take a state job close to his house instead of commuting the 20 miles to work for me.

Also agree that there is very limited use for carbide chain. I prefer to use the reg. steel chains, unless we have to cut it down to ground level and it is a large stump.