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worn out bed

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Hello,

I noticed my bed moving more than the cab when I have the truck at weird angles, so I pulled my camper shell off. It has been on the truck since I bought the truck in 2003. I then pulled out the bed liner which I think has been in since the truck was new. My bed has a lot of cracks, I don't think that it is worth fixing. I can weld. So I am considering replacing the bed. I read in an old post that beds from 1980-93 will fit. I am also thinking about a flat bed. I mainly use the truck to haul my tools around. I occasionally take it on dirt roads. I occasionally pull a trailer. I would like to see what others have done to either repair their beds or replace them. If I replace it with a stock bed, I assume that the earlier ones have thicker metal, can anyone tell me what years are the most durable?

Thanks,

Chris

93 W250

63 IH Scout 80

47 GMC 1 Ton
 
I noticed my bed moving more than the cab when I have the truck at weird angles,

I'm not certain, but I think this has more to do with frame flex than it does with the bed. I've had my '82 crossed up so much that there are actually dents in the back of the cab from the bed. My '91. 5 flexes even more (due to the suspension) but doesn't have the dents yet.

--Eric
 
Hi Eric, I agree, my bed is damaged because of frame flex. What is the best way to solve the problem? Make the frame stiffer or mount the bed differently?
Hi Simplysmn, I'm in Marin County.
Thanks,
Chris
 
I know that beds from these years look the same, but there are differences in where the mounting tabs are. I had an '86 and it was fitted with a bed from an '89 I think. The PO had to weld on different tabs onto the frame. I'm not sure of the years, but look at your mounts when setting up a swap. It may have something to do with older trucks having the fuel tank outside of the frame rails??? Like I said, can't pinpoint it, but I know there are diff mount points.
 
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Hmm, I bought a '91 and put an '84 bed on it... . it bolted right on. I put a 91 on my 90, and the second bed on the '91 was an '86..... I never had any problems with bolt patterns on those..... I'm curious as to what caused that on yours..... I've currently got two mint '93s upside down in my barn that were dealer take offs, and when they cleaned the shop out, guess who was waiting by the dumpster? :D Also got some rims, door glass, and a few other parts... . Looked like I robbed the place when I was pulling out of there. Now it looks like I won't be using the beds anytime soon... ... :( My CTD transplant victim is a shortbed... .



As for steel beds, I'm not sure what type of tools you haul, but a utility bed is awful handy, I've found. I mounted one on a trailer a few years back, and now I'm wanting to build another one... . darn nice.
 
HHhuntitall do ya want a longbed crewcab frame ?



Sure... got a cab for it?!?! :D I'd like to build another 4 door dually. Mikee's is so nice, I kinda want one now..... but I need to finish the short bed first. :rolleyes: It'd make a great daily driver, and I really do need it for the kids. It's a little tight in the extended cab and impossible in the reg cab..... dang ogre-children... :cool: (can't be any higher maintenance than the '03!!:mad:)
 
I'm not certain, but I think this has more to do with frame flex than it does with the bed. I've had my '82 crossed up so much that there are actually dents in the back of the cab from the bed. My '91. 5 flexes even more (due to the suspension) but doesn't have the dents yet.

--Eric
Hi Eric,
Wouldn't the longer travel suspension that you have on your truck cause your frame to flex less? Or does it allow you to get the truck in worse places so it flexes more?
Thanks,
Chris
 
Hmm, I bought a '91 and put an '84 bed on it... . it bolted right on. I put a 91 on my 90, and the second bed on the '91 was an '86..... I never had any problems with bolt patterns on those..... I'm curious as to what caused that on yours..... I've currently got two mint '93s upside down in my barn that were dealer take offs, and when they cleaned the shop out, guess who was waiting by the dumpster? :D Also got some rims, door glass, and a few other parts... . Looked like I robbed the place when I was pulling out of there. Now it looks like I won't be using the beds anytime soon... ... :( My CTD transplant victim is a shortbed... .



As for steel beds, I'm not sure what type of tools you haul, but a utility bed is awful handy, I've found. I mounted one on a trailer a few years back, and now I'm wanting to build another one... . darn nice.
A utility bed would be very handy, but aren't they a lot heavier?
Does anyone know what the weight of a stock bed is in comparison?
With the shell, and a work bench/cabinet that I built which slides in my bed, I am able to carry a lot of tools incognito, I'm afraid that a utility bed would be asking for thieves to come take tools. In addition, when I remove the bench and my tools, I have a larger space to haul stuff in than I would with a utility bed.
How much lighter could an aluminum flat bed be than the stock bed?
Here is a page that shows the bed that I rebuilt for my 47 GMC Mt. Tamalpais Flat Bed, 1947/8 GMC
Thanks,
Chris
 
Hi Eric,
Wouldn't the longer travel suspension that you have on your truck cause your frame to flex less?

I think that's it exactly. The increased suspension travel is the only thing that has kept my frame from flexing and thus far avoiding bed/cab damage.

I've been building up an old '87 Dodge offroad truck, and I'm 1/4 of the way boxing in the frame right now. I'm also adding additional crossmembers to stiffen the frame. I know the frame twist actually allows more flexing and articulation, but, as with everything, there's an acceptible limit.

I'll have to crawl under the truck and look again, but it may not be too bad to just box in the center section of the truck, between the bed/cab junction. Another option would be to add another transmission crossmember that ties the two framerails together, but also bolts to the top and bottom lip of each frame rail.

As for bed mounting, I know that my '91 has an "inner" and "outer" set of holes for the bed mounts, and only one is used. Maybe this accounts for different frame mount locations between years?

--Eric

--Eric
 
A utility bed would be very handy, but aren't they a lot heavier?

Does anyone know what the weight of a stock bed is in comparison?

With the shell, and a work bench/cabinet that I built which slides in my bed, I am able to carry a lot of tools incognito, I'm afraid that a utility bed would be asking for thieves to come take tools. In addition, when I remove the bench and my tools, I have a larger space to haul stuff in than I would with a utility bed.

How much lighter could an aluminum flat bed be than the stock bed?

Here is a page that shows the bed that I rebuilt for my 47 GMC Mt. Tamalpais Flat Bed, 1947/8 GMC

Thanks,

Chris



A stock bed weighs around 400lb w/o tailgate. I know I can lift one side of it, set it on the tire, go around, and lift the other side, sliding it across on a 2x4, then lift it and pull the board out..... but I'm an ogre... . :eek: Utility beds vary in weight from fabrication material guage, configuration, and overall size, but the average 84" wide bed I've had around here would weigh around 1,000 easy, before ladder racks and adding any tools... . And yes, having one is prone to attract "raiders. " :cool: I like toppers to keep my gear hidden and dry, myself, but for working at service calls and in the field, there's not accessiblity like a utility bed. If you've got a custome slide, maybe the factory bed is your thing. I suggested it when you mentioned tools, as I can keep mine fairly well organized with the different compartments. I never know if I'm going to need a 1" impact with sockets for a rear driver tire, or 3/8" drive ratchets under the hood... .....



As for boxing just the center frame... . I'd be cautious about that. I boxed my '84 1/2 ton under the factory crossmembers from the transmission to over the rear diff, and it broke the frame right over the springs and I later found it bent just behind the rear front spring hanger. What a wild ride getting it stopped!!!:eek: Now, that was a 1/2 ton, so the frame was a little thinner and shorter, and I was pounding on it pretty hard with a bored maxi-wedge and some rough country..... but I'm just cautioning you to not over do it... ... or plate the frame all the way to the rear spring hanger, if you really want to abuse it..... of course, the diesel frame may take it much better. :confused:
 
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